The Journal News from White Plains, New York • Page 71

E3 THE JOURNAL-NEWS, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 1982 we eat Recipes nner Beef Wellington, uiar vor a soecia pop reduce to about 6 cups. This mixture can be refriger- -ated for up to a week, or frozen 2 to 3 months. To finish wine sauce, combine red wine and currant jelly. Stir this into 2 cups of sauce base. Add currants, bring to boil, and simmer 10 to 15 minutes.

Correct seasoning with salt, and, if you wish, add Kitchen Bouquet and few drops of red food coloring for reddish-brown color. Yield: 3 cups. This is how the sauce for beef Wellington should be made if you use the whole tenderloin. It is time-consuming and demands care and attention. A large part of its success depends on how quickly you can adapt this method to your own cooking utensils.

The pot is important. A heavy aluminum, cast-iron or enameled pot will bring much better results than a thin, lightweight utensil. Wine tip: We received our liquor license and began selling wine 19 years ago. Looking through our records, I can see how the wine-drinking habits of our clientele have changed. Some of the wines we provided early on, such as Chateau Berger, are no longer available.

Most burgundy prices became prohibitive. California wines came on strong, but one wine has remained among our best sellers for 20 years: Torres Sangre de Toro. It is still unbeatable in its class for quality, price and value. It is available in almost every liquor store for $3.30 to $3.50 a bottle. It should be slightly chilled and will be exceptionally well suited to making the Cumberland sauce and to drinking with the beef Wellington.

Shopper's tip: Most butchers can supply a fully trimmed tenderloin 2 2 to 3 pounds, 11 to 12 inches long and 2 2 to 3 inches in diameter. With it you can buy 1 pound of lean ground beef for the pate and another pound of beef scraps or ground meat for the sauce, and you can begin your preparation by wrapping the trimmed tenderloin in foil to chill. Asking in several stores, we found that prices for a fully trimmed tenderloin range from $6 to $9 a pound. It depends on grade and closeness of trim. The better supermarkets will be glad to prepare it for you if you order a week ahead.

teaspoon garlic salt (not garlic powder) Mix all ingredients well and store in covered jar. Cumberland sauce: For the stock: 1 medium onion, finely minced 1 clove garlic, finely minced 2 pounds beef scraps, fat and lean 1 carrot, cut into 2 -inch dice 2 ribs celery, cut into Vi-inch dice 1 tablespoon salt Water 1 pound marrow bones 1 tablespoon flour 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, bruised For the roux: cup flour cup shortening For the sauce: V2 cup red wine cup currant jelly 2 cups sauce base listed previously 2 cup dried currants Additional salt, if needed Kitchen Bouquet (optional) In heavy saucepan, saute onion and garlic with fat parts from scraps. When onion becomes translucent, add carrot, celery, salt and water to cover. Cover pan and cook over high heat until all liquid evaporates. Add remaining meat scraps and marrow bones.

Sprinkle with flour and stir over medium heat until all particles brown. Transfer to soup kettle. Add bay leaf, peppercorns and 4 quarts water. Bring to rapid boil, then lower heat and simmer 3 to 4 hours, skimming frequently. Strain liquid and skim again.

Discard all solids. Cool. Make roux by mixing flour with shortening and stirring over medium heat. When it starts to brown, remove roux from heat and slowly add cooled stock. Strain and return to medium-size saucepan.

Bring to boil, then lower heat and cook until mixture is clear and glossy, skimming frequently. The amount will while the meat continues to cook. This way, even if you like the beef done to medium well (which we really don't recommend), the pastry won't burn or dry out. Pate Maison 1 cup finely minced onion 12 tablespoons lard, or chicken or duck fat 8 ounces chicken or duck livers 2 cups (about pound) cooked meat 6 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature 2 to 3 tablespoons brandy or cognac 2 teaspoons Parisian spice (recipe follows) Saute onion in 8 tablespoons lard until limp but not brown. Add livers, raise heat, and cook until last trace of pink disappears from thickest part of thickest liver.

Cool. Grind cooked meat 3 times, using medium holes in meat grinder. (Any roasted, broiled, boiled, baked, braised or fried meat may be used, especially chicken with skin, duck, turkey, pork, veal or beef but do not use lamb or mutton.) Grind livers with onion 3 times. Beat butter and remaining 4 tablespoons lard together in electric mixer; then, continuing to beat at low speed, blend in ground liver and meat. Beat until fluffy, then add brandy or cognac and Parisian spice.

Correct seasoning if necessary by adding more salt or Parisian spice. Use this pate for beef Wellington, or chill and serve with pickles and crusty bread. Yield: 2 pounds. In this recipe, the method is really more important than the ingredients. As you can see, you have a choice of fat, livers and cooked meat.

But please do not try to change the procedure. Do not combine the steps. When you mix the butter with the lard or chicken or duck fat, no other shortening will do. Oil will not and vegetable shortening will give the pate a taste of tallow. The amount of cognac or brandy may be adjusted, but if you prefer not to use alcohol, add 2 to 3 tablespoons of some other liquid such as chicken broth or beef broth for proper consistency.

Liver becomes tough if salted before cooking, so don't add salt to it in this or any other recipe. If salt is needed, salt after cooking. Parisian Spice 1 tablespoon crushed bay leaf 1 tablespoon dried thyme 1 tablespoon powdered mace 1 tablespoon dried rosemary 1 tablespoon dried basil 2 tablespoons cinnamon iy2 teaspoons ground cloves Vz teaspoon ground nutmeg Vz teaspoon ground allspice 1 teaspoon ground white pepper 2 teaspoons Spanish paprika 1 cup salt Mix all ingredients together in spice mortar, or crush them together in deep bowl with bottom of cup. Sift through fine sieve 2 or 3 times, crush again, and sift until everything goes through. Store in tightly covered jar.

Chef's Salt 1 cup salt 1 tablespoon Spanish or Hungarian paprika 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon ground white pepper CROPSEY FARM OPEN 9 a.m. -9 p.m. 7 days a week 111. I II L9i LITTLE TQR ROAD, NEVraTY MX When it comes to your Family Thanksgiving begins on the Farm In Classified! If you can't stand the stove, get it out of the kitchen with an easy-sell Farm Fresh Grade A Extra Large EGOS 9 doz By Louis Szathmary Syndicated Columnist Twenty years ago, on Oct. 19, we opened the front door of the Bakery restaurant in Chicago, without much fanfare.

Whatever else has happened since, one thing has remained unchanged: Beef Wellington has accounted for just more than half our sales from that day to this. During these 20 years, I have seen predictions from time to time that women's skirts would be floor-length and beef Wellington would be out; that topless dresses would be in and beef Wellington would be out; that long hair would be in and beef Wellington would be out; that short hair would be in and you get the idea. I always get scared when I read these items, but our beef Wellington sales always linger around the 51 or 52 percent mark. Some people may recall that in the 1970s, at a time when beef was in short supply, we raised the price of our beef Wellington dinner $2 above the prices of our other dinners. Sales remained at 52 percent.

After all these years and after I've handled literally 10,000 recipe requests, the most frequently requested main-course recipe is still beef Wellington. As part of our 20th anniversary celebration, I thought I would share with you our recipe for this dish. I haven't left out a thing. I have a large box filled with thank-you letters from people the world over who have successfully cooked this recipe. I hope you will enjoy it, too.

Beef Wellington 1 beef tenderloin, 5 to 6 pounds (2Vz to 3 pounds after trimming) 4 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt 10 tablespoons butter, chilled 10 tablespoons lard, chilled 1 egg yolk 10 tablespoons cold water 1 pound (approximately) ground beef from edible tenderloin trimmings Vz pound pate maison (recipe follows) 1 to IV2 teaspoons Parisian spice (recipe follows) Pinch of salt Pinch of freshly ground black pepper Chef's salt (recipe follows) V4 cup corn oil 1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon cold water Cumberland sauce (recipe follows) If you trim tenderloin yourself, first remove fat, then remove tough silvery surface (called Best way to do this is to loosen skin at tail end with point of sharp knife. Pulling and cutting toward "head end," remove skin in strips. Place cleaned tenderloin on sheet of freezer paper or plastic wrap and, holding it firmly with one hand, push tail end in toward head end to form cylinder. Wrap tightly and place in freezer. It need not be completely frozen, but it should be chilled to at least 26 to 28 degrees.

From trimmings, remove every bit of edible meat and cut into 2 -inch cubes for grinding. Set aside. Reserve non-edible trimmings for Cumberland sauce. Prepare pastry dough: Sift flour with 1 teaspoon salt. Cut in chilled butter and lard (no other shortening will do), working quickly.

Work in egg yolk and 10 tablespoons cold water. Form mixture into ball, wrap in plastic, and chill several hours before using. You must work quickly and with light hand to combine ingredients without overworking dough. (A good grade of commercial pie-crust mix also will give satisfactory results.) When tenderloin is chilled, cut it with sharp knife into equal portions. From average tenderloin, you can cut eight 5-ounce steaks (use ends for beef Stroga-nof f).

After cutting, return steaks to freezer. Grind cubed edible trimmings twice through medium or large holes of meat grinder. You should have about 1 pound ground meat. To this add Vz pound pate maison, 1 to IV2 teaspoons Parisian spice, pinch of salt and pinch of black pepper. Mix thoroughly and refrigerate.

Heat large, heavy skillet to point where drop of oil will immediately smoke and burn. Remove steaks from freezer (they should be at freezing point or below), sprinkle them lightly with chef's salt, and brush each with thin coating of corn oil. Quickly sear steaks in hot skillet, a few at a time, for 3 or 4 seconds on each side, then immediately return to freezer and rechill. Remove steaks from freezer. Divide pate mixture into 8 equal portions, about 3 ounces each.

Place 1 portion on each seared steak and round off top with your palm. Return steaks to freezer. Roll out dough Vs inch thick on lightly floured surface. Beat egg with 1 tablespoon cold water and brush surface of dough' with egg wash. Cut dough into 8 triangles, about 9 by 5 inches each.

Remove steaks from freezer. Place steak close to short side of triangle, so that bottom is completely on dough, and pull long end over steak, completely covering it and pressing sides of dough firmly together to form seal around bottom rim. With knife, trim pastry to about inch from base of steak. Pick up pastry-covered steak in one hand and with the other make a pinched rim around base, as you would edge pie. Your first Wellington may look clumsy, but don't give up.

From leftover dough, cut eight triangles, inch by IV2 inches, pinch together short end of each triangle so that it looks like a leaf, and score veins into leaf with knife. Brush Wellington with egg wash again, place leaves on top, and return to freezer. At this point Wellingtons are best kept on well-floured tray, but if they will be stored overnight or longer, they must be tightly covered. To finish for serving, remove Wellingtons from freezer and let stand overnight in refrigerator or 4 to 5 hours at room temperature. Pre-heat oven to 475 degrees.

Bake Wellingtons on cookie sheet until meat thermometer registers 115 degrees for rare, 120 for medium rare, 130 for medium, or 140 for medium well. After 5 minutes baking time, brush each Wellington with egg wash and continue to brush every 5 minutes until done. Serve with Cumberland sauce. Serves 8. Brushing with egg wash while baking has a much more important purpose than simply beautifying the Wellingtons.

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