The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on October 4, 1997 · Page 5
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 5

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Salina, Kansas
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Saturday, October 4, 1997
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Page 5
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1 f Hfe SALINA JOURNAL FASHION SATURDAY, OCTOBER 4, 1997 AB T DRESS-DOWN DAYS T SEW SIMPLE 'Third wardrobe' fits casual days Peak lapels appear on tailored jackets A§ more offices relax dress codes, retailers aim to bridge ;ploset gap between jeans, suits *•£ ; " jly MARK KENNEDY i. The Associated Press ,.. YORK — Women in the work force Chave long struggled to find clothes suitable for vlhe office and the job. A wardrobe somewhere HJltween dressed to kill and overly casual. i, 1 .Pulling it all together isn't easy, as men are i finding now that corporate uniform rules are ^feeing eased. But retailers are ready to help. »*,- "It's easy to wear a suit," Ken Fellows, a &few York lawyer, says. "I mean, there's not a {got of thought involved. So I can imagine that Hidme might find dressing-down difficult." y:,;After Fellows' firm recently instituted a pol- ijc$ of casual Fridays, many of his colleagues J£?l|rted scouring department stores for clothes gffiat were comfortable, yet presentable. **u-'rm one of these people," Fellows confesses. ..• 1 have suits, and I have jeans, and I don't have • anything in between." •j Retailers would like to change that with a "third wardrobe" — ap- ..'" ' 4- parel deemed more casual than the suit and less casual than jeans. "Dress-down is actually evolving into dress-up. It's taking on a third wardrobe concept," Kathy B.radley- anVtHinsin Riley, merchandise J manager for The Doneger Group, a New York-based trend forecasting service, says. "We tell the customer that he can dress "* r down on Friday, but .;, ; you still have to have 'that dressed-up look to gain the respect you .need in business," she adds. •, -,The corporate world is still reeling from ear- 4y ideas of the casual-Friday craze, when jeans and sweatshirts seemed the norm. .', "Month after month, more and more folks i-are going casual every day," Gant president •(Peter Corritori says. "But as consumers, professionals are looking at ways to be more polished and have a more refined look to their casual dressing." •' JAs a result, some companies have opted for a more middle-of-the-road dress code that com- T AFTER A FASHION '"Ihave suits, and I have jeans, and I don't have ing in between." Ken Fellows • New York lawyer EUNICE FARMER King Features The Associated Press This V-neck argyle sweater, layered over corduroys, helps relax your typical office attire. bines traditional and relaxed corporate styles. And retailers have found this hybrid a boon: an expanding market for a well-heeled buyer. "The casualization of our country is forcing men to learn how to have a bit more variety in the way they put themselves together," Jay Friedman, president of Claiborne Menswear, a division of Liz Claiborne Inc., says. "What we're finding is there's a hell of a lot of confusion," he adds. "That opportunity is big enough to drive a truck through." Sales of khakis are up In fact, sales in men's casual business clothing have outpaced the apparel market as a whole during the past two years, according to studies compiled by The NPD Group, an independent research company in Port Washington, N.Y., that tracks national clothing trends. The fastest growing sector of menswear is knit sport shirts, with a steady growth of 16.5 percent over last year. Sales of casual pants such as khakis were up 9.8 percent from 1996, while tailored clothing was down 12.5 percent from 1995, NPD says. "I think people are shopping very differently now," Cindy Capobianco, director of public relations for Banana Republic, says. "People are buying elements to spice up what they've got." With almost half of U.S. companies now embracing dress-down days, retailers are busy adjusting to the change in corporate lifestyles. Men's stores which feature more dressy, casual clothes hope to lure new customers with easy-to-understand displays, attentive salespeople and even computer terminals that can put together a look for each customer. Claiborne's line of casual menswear includes racks of slacks that drape, unstructured jackets and colorful shirts. Fabrics tend to be softer and require less care than most business attire, with most of the slacks advertised as wrinkle-free. "We're building the kind of comfort into it that people have only gotten before from sweat pants and T-shirts," Friedman says. Gant and Banana Republic also feature trousers in thicker, drapier cottons and flannels, topped by blazers and sport coats in finer yarns and heavier fabrics. Dear Eunice Farmer: I love a beautifully tailored jacket and lenjoy this type of sewing. Can you recommend a classic long jacket with newer fashion details? — Paula B. Dear Paula: I love your letter. I too have always been fascinated with the challenge of beautiful tailoring. A well-made classic jacket will always be in style; however, there are always details that change. The newest detail to return is the peak lapel. I have selected Burda 3400, sized 10-20, for your classic jacket, but it is also featured as a full-length coat pattern. For a coat, it is an added advantage to make it double-breasted because it will always stay lapped over in front. If you need to review some of your tailoring techniques, there is a new book from the Singer Reference Library called "Tailoring." The detailed pictures and techniques are easy to understand! Dear Eunice Farmer: Please explain the difference between underlining and interfacing. — Helen K Dear Helen: Underlining refers to using another layer of fabric — organza or batiste, for example — with your fashion fabric for a crisper, slightly more structured look. These two layers must be carefully basted together and then treated as one. Interfacing can be fusible or sew-in, and it's used to give certain areas of your garment extra body, such as collars, garment fronts and hems. It's best to pretest before deciding which is best for your pattern as well as your fabric. There are many products to Eyebrows: More than rain gutters for eyes Rermanant cosmetics hfelp alopecia areata sufferer get face back . To appreciate the eloquence of eyebrows, you should spend an hour or two with a newborn sleep'"•; ing in your lap and "^ * watch her eyebrows — still hairless, but visible in the movements of the tiny underlying muscles — rise in surprise, knit in thought, pull down into a frown, contract with worry. What can she be dreaming of to feel this cascade of emotions? What . * does she know beyond milk, mother, light and dark, containment and its startling absence? How is it that she can express emotions • she has yet to feel? Eyebrows, you might think, are about as extraneous as body parts get, a vestige of a time before umbrellas, hats and roofs, when our ancestors still needed built-in gutters to keep the rain out of their PATRICIA MCLAUGHLIN Universal Press Syndicate eyes. Desmond Morris thinks not. In "Bodywatching," he says "there is little doubt that the function of these conspicuous 'superciliary patches,' as the eyebrows are known technically, is to signal the changing moods of their owners." Eyebrows are the main attractions on the empty stage of forehead we developed to house our big brains. Without them, foreheads look empty, and faces become inscrutable, apparently emotionless. Makers of B movies discovered that the quickest way to turn actors into aliens was to inflate their foreheads even more and leave them blank, deprived of eyebrows and hair. Eyebrow tattoo When she sees a crowd of people without eyebrows, Ami Morris says, "I feel like they all look the same." Morris, a senior at Penn State, knows a lot of people without eyebrows — people who, like her, have alopecia areata. When she was 13, Ami started losing "little patches of hair — and they'd fall out and then grow back in." After a while, they didn't grown back anymore. "Our society doesn't accept women being Universal Press Without eyebrows, foreheads look empty and faces appear to be emotionless. bald," she says, and "for women, appearance means a lot," so Ami got a prosthesis. "You can call it a wig," she says. Mostly she wears it when she goes out. When she's at home, or hanging out in the dorm with friends, she's OK with being bald. She even has a tattoo on her scalp. But she minded losing her eyebrows — all except a tiny tuft above the inside corner of one eye. "When I didn't have them, I al- ways had to draw them on with an eyebrow pencil, and they'd rub off by the end of the day," she says. She says it's "wonderful" to have them back. Lillian Lang, a nurse who specializes in permanent cosmetics, tattooed .them on, starting with light ones to match Amy's sandy-blonde prosthesis and then darkening them a little a couple of years later when she got a darker wig and wanted eyebrows to match. Lang does permanent eyeliner, lipliner and eyebrow enhancement for women who like to wear makeup but don't like to put it on every day. Ami says she likes not having to wear eyebrow pencil, but what she likes even more is waking up with eyebrows. "It's more for me than for other people," she says. "Now when I look at myself in the mirror, I look like MYSELF; I look like I used to." CARROLL HAMILTON Roofing Company IICMartOfElMllMCC" oil 785-452-9224 Mfnneipof/s; ctll 785-392-2868 1-800-864-4637 FREE Estimate . FlndMlnth»FflitAntwld» Pattern: Burda 3400. choose from; some are delicate as a web, and others have a great deal of body and are actually stiff. Seam ripper winner ' Winner of the lighted seam ripper and needle threader, for th;e sewing tip of the week, is Geneva Stamper of New Port Richey, Fla. Her tip: "Use elastic thread to sew buj> tons on waistbands that are a bit snug. It will give you just that extra little give you need!." Send your sewing tips to Eunice Farmer, Box 31729, St. Louis, MO 63131. If she selects your tidbit for publication, you'll receive this sewing notion. The Uncommon Florists Flowers Hours: 9-5, Mon.-Fri. 827-8448 921 Shalimar Drive Behind the Soutbgate Dairy Queen C RA1PH WEIGH Bonds - Insurance Phone 827-2906 115 East Iron YARD WASTE DAY Bring your large limbs, branches, brush, leaves, clippings, and other yard waste to this free drop-off site* Sunday, October 12, 1997 East Crawford Recreation Area (south end) 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Rain or shine, you can drop-off your materials. There will also be wood chips and compost on-site to take for your home use. By participating, you will keep these materials from taking up costly landfill space! sauna Sponsored by the City of Salina Parks and Recreation Department and Engineering and General Services Department. Baldwin Bros. GOING OUT OF BUSINESS SALE 1 Croup La-z-Boy RECLINERS 1/2 price All Table Lamps Reg. $149 to $199 NOW 1-Blue Electric Lift Recliner 1-5 pc. Keller Party Set 1-Twin Electric Adjustable Bed Dropleaf table & 2 Chair Set Queen Size Simmons Mattress Set 1-5 pc Class Dinette Set i-Odd Simmons Full Size Box Spring i-Odd Simmons Queen Size Box Spring i-Maple Triple Dresser by Tell City All Chests, Double Dressers & Beds NOW 1/2 price SALE $849 $1,247 $695 $119 $379 $495 $99 $119 $599 Reg. .$1,495 .$2,495 ..Used . .$239 'Special' $1,095 $229 $249 $1,195 OPEN , Mon.-Satl Hoam-61 All occasional Tables 00% Off Baldwin Bros. Furniture 141S. Santa Fe Downtown Salina 827-5584 OPEN SUNDAY 2-5 pm 1997 Salina Arts and Crafts JUBILEE at Bicentennial Center Heritage Hall Great Gift Ideas (Over 50 Booths) OCTOBER 4th and 5th Admission $1.00 (Under 12 Free) Bring in this ad and get admission for 50#! • Snack Bar Will Be Available . • Saturday: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. • Sunday: Noon to 5 p.m. ^HMpi MM MM MJ M MM MM MM MM MM M W MM MM MM MM M M M ** M M M M *^* *^^ IHMMP UMPP' WMMP UPMP HH^B HBHP BBBBP WHBP BHPP WiHH ^^^^^ ^^^P^ ^p^^B ^H^M ^P^^PJ p^^^p P^P^PJ P^^PW ^P^P^ IPPMP

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