The Pittsburgh Press from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania • Page 34

SUNDAY. JTLT 2T, 1S0 01 ME TrEPASTJTKCTi. TOtTRT 8489 FOUR SOCIETY SECTION WANT AD HEADCCABTXBS. COTTBT 4300 PITTSBURGH PRESS. Parisian Dressmakers Create Styles In Costumes For -French Women Followers Of Sports Secrets Of Premier Entrusted To Girl Secretary to Ramsay MacDonald Has Post Never Before Held by Woman Carefully Guards Time and Health of Labor Chief Costumer Sees Drop In Trade Sanitation Mania, Mask Laws, Inertia Given as Reasons Suzanne Lenglen, Designer of Sports Clothes, Is Responsible for Color Vogue on Courts i i cslfJ ALTHOUGH sports are increasing in importance nuw year, both aa social and national events, the increase in interest this year has been even more than normal.

In tennis, with France in the first place, where the United States has stood for so long, this may be easily understood. The national French championships and the Davis Cup finals bring together on the courts the world's greatest players and on the side lines the most important followers of sports. ISS ROSE OF NO. 10" it means a lot to the members of Par-JWI liament, to politicians generally, to labor leaders, to reporters, because it is the favorite designation of Miss Rose Rosenberg, the little dark-haired, dark-eyed Jewish girl, who is personal secretary to Premier Ramsay MacDonald. and who keeps long office hours at the l3mous No.

10 Downing Street. Never in the 150 years of American history has any President had woman secretary in any capacity at all comparable to that held by By ALMA CHESNUT Woman's Editor THE sanitation mania, laws forbidding the wearing of masks, 'and general inertia on the part of the public, are Important factors in the business slump reported in the fancy dress line by the Golf has had almost the same im- this girl still in her twenties. If the Lord High Chancellor of Great portance this year, with the Amer- since most golfers Insist on having among other duties, is official "keeper of the king's con CONFIDANTE ican women's team and Bobby Jones playing on Paris links. France has definitely taken up both tennis and eolf. and this means that women are National Costumers Association in convention at Washington.

science," Miss Rosenberg is truly the keeper of the Prime Minister's secrets. She knows more of the inside some wool tneir cobouuico. The tweed denelles of Patou are most effective in golf outfits. The jackets of the suits he makes are usually slightly fitted and held to the waistline with a rather wide belt of the material or of leather. Patou gives fullness to this type of skirt by the use of deep flat pleats.

A woolen golfing outfit was 'one So, at least, says James H. Esser, Costume In Checked Silk who for many a year has contributed Cope on home politics and world to gala festivities by providing Pitts- burghers with coats of armor, minstrel suits. Valentino outfits, pirates' taking an active as well as a spectator's interest in both games. Hence clothes become very important, as they do wherever women congregate. Suzanne- Lenglen, long the most picturesque figure on the tennis courts of the world, this year is designing clothes not only for tennis but for golf and covfntry life in general.

No woman ever succeeded in presenting the picture on the court that Mile. Lenglen did- boots, period gowns or what have you. Agreeing with Major s. H. Har- Black and White Set Off With Bunch of Flowers relson of Kansas City, founder and Black and white checked silk In two-inch squares fashioned on of of the smartest things snown in Patou's recent collection.

Thewhite flannel skirt, pleated onto a hip yoke, was worn with a fine white wool sweater. Bright jackets of the yachting type were shown to complete these costumes, sometimes in bright navy blue with gold buttons, someimes in with wiiite buttons. Berets seem to be the preferred type of hat for use on the links? always matching the decided color note in the costume. Color is also becoming noticeable in golf shoes, usually in combination with white at this time of year, though the bootmakers say that later onvthe combining color is going to be tan. president emeritus of the association and a specialist in cowboy and Indian suits, that business is bad, Mr.

Esser shook his head sadly yesterday and said the decline in the popularity of the masquerade ball isn half of his troubles. Rough on Costumes First, costumes 'are often very expensive and rehabilitation and upkeep in this, the eleventh year of Volstead, frequently wipes out profits. Masqueraders are rougher, Mr. Esser explained. "You may rent out a brand new costume and have it come back practically in tatters," he said.

"Then there ar only two courses me outstanding costumes at the Grand Steeplechase de Paris. The silk was used on the diagonal, giving a striking effect. With the costume a large black hat was worn. To quote Helen Wills Moody "To Mile. Lenglen we owe the present attractive styles for the court.

Her pleated skirt, her bare arms, her bandeau, were the inspiration for the tennis clothes we wear today. She introduced also the ensemble effect in color for the tennis costume. She made it the style to be color conscious on the court. Today, as the head of the sports department of Yvonne May, Miss Lenglen has given a direct challenge to every other Parisian dressmaking house and this year Paris has given us a variety of charming tennis clothes. I it' f' 'n The only color note on the frock was a bunch of flowers, shading from ongni rea to pink, which was tucked into the belt.

This color was echoed by an exceedingly large nancucercniei or bright red chiffon which was tied to the wrist and hung down to the hem of the dress. While white remains the color of the championship players' dresses, colored sweaters and bandeaus are much worn to vary the picture. A case in point is the picture made Jewelry Used In Costumes Diamonds and Rubies Second to Semi-Precious Stones It. If fO 1 Hat Bands Match Costumes Changeable hat bands are the open and either way you lose. If you ask for damages, you are likely to lose a customer.

If you don't, you pay for cleaning and mending tae costume and, besides that, have to rent the outfit next time at a lower price. "Another factor that makes for bad business is that people are getting exceedingly particular. They've read a lot about germs and they newest things In the millinery world. They are especially smart on the big Rose Rosenberg, secretary to Prime Minister MacDonald of Great Britain, is a living proof that a woman can keep a secret. She knows more "inside" politics than any other person besides King George and the Labor Party Chief.

hats of dead white straw which are the smartest at the moment. The bands are made to match by Miss Wills in her yellow silk sweater and Cillie Aussem with her French blue scarf as they shook hands after the semi-finals at the Stade Roland Garros. Outside of the championship ranks colored dresses for tennis are coming into their own. On country club court and on private court alike the pastel tones of yellow, green, blue and pink are decidedly each costume with which the hat la worn. They may be of satin, trros- Diamonds and rubies and sapphires for once play second to semi politics than anybody In the kingdom outside of MacDonald and King George.

And she is the living, everyday proof that a woman can keep silent. The average oyster Is a loquacious chatter-box compared with her. She knows a number of languages and can keep dumb In all of them when her job requires it. No Kill-Joy, Though This is not to say that sh is an austere kill-joy. She isn't.

Get her away from the responsibilities of her job and she is Just a girl bubbling over with fun. She belongs to Ciro'6 famous club and can dance with the best of them, when the newest American jazz tune is Strummed. She will join a group of women at a party and her eyes will light up when the latest modes in clothes and colors are discussed. As for the reportersshe has a way with them: "It just breaks my heart, Jim, but I can't give you an interview with the Prime Minister. He's too busy.

Better luck some other day." It's an open secret that she and the Premier's eldest daughter. Miss Ishbel, are co-conspirators. These two young women make it their Job to preserve the strength, look after the health and save the time of the Prime Minister. MacDonald is very tnuch like the late President Wood-row Wilson. He, too, is a tremendous worker.

He, too. has no very preat physical strength and lives very much on his nerves. That's where the young conspirators get in their work. "Miss Rose of No. 10" will scheme so that the Prime Minister will have a whole afternoon without an appointment.

"Miss Ishbel of No. 10" will then persuade father to lie down, take a nap and be lazy for a few hours. Between them they manage it so that he is kept fit for the gigantic job of running the British government and looking after the complicated affairs of the empire, as well as sitting in and speaking during the lone wearisome hours that the House of Commons keeps them when it is in session. Precocious Girl Miss Rosenberg is an example of the precociousness of Young England. Born in London, she joined the Women's Social and Political Union, while a school girl, to battle for woman's suffrage, but in later years tjuit them when they adopted their militant tactics.

At 17 she joined the famous Fabian Society, a Socialist organization of which G. Bernard Shaw was one of the shining ornaments. At that same age Woman's Club grain or linen. Many of them are made of the same material as the precious stones in the new handmade or art-jewelry which is the special joy of women Year Book Out frock. Always they are finished with a French cockade or perky bow.

don't like to wear clothing that has been worn before even if it has been cleaned. Rather than rent a really fine outfit, complete in every detail, they buy a cheap ready-made suit or paint up their B. V. and call it a costume. Decline After 75 Years "However, I do agree with Major Harrelson that the masquerade ball, a standard American divertissement for 75 years, seems to have declined a great deal in popularity.

Whether it will come back into vogue, I can't say, but it is true that we are depending for the bulk of our trade upon college and school theatricals." Names Hostesses for Season Which Opens October 7 of fashion this summer. Tourmalines, zircons, aquamarines and moonstones all are given the lead of precious gems in these new necklaces and bracelets, while small diamonds are used chiefly to enhance the brilliance of the colored stones. Thus, In one lovely rainbow-colored chain and pendant an immense green zircon forms, the center of the pendant, being surrounded by small sapphires and rubies. in favor and they add much to the gayety and life of the picture. The latest notion in fashion is to match the color of the dress with the tiny socks which are generally used now by those who are style conscious.

Sometimes only the socks are worn, again they are supplemented by flesh-colored stockings. Molyneux created an entirely new tennis costume, with his pleated culottes. On private courts especially these have been accepted with enthusiasm. Often they are made of printed shantung or of linen in bright color combinations. In headgear the last word is the combination of a bandanna and a wide brim of straw.

The bandanna is of the same material as the frock Hostesses at meetings of the Woman's Club of Pittsburgh during the 1930-1931 season which opens Oct. 7, are announced in the new year-book, issued last week. The Executive Board, comprising officers and Mrs. S. J.

Corbett, Mrs. Ray S. Judd, Mrs. George Sterling, Mrs. Thomas Gray, Mrs.

John Rehling, Mrs. W. A. Smith and Mrs. W.

E. Whitemore, will be hostesses at the initial gathering, a reception to the president. Hostesses at other meetings will be as follows: Oct. 21, Mrs. Paul White handbags are prominent at the racetracks, at the restaurants in the Bois and at the Ritz.

They are made of corduroy, crepe de chine or linen and usually they are finished with initials in gold. The smartest one seen at Arme-nonville the other day was made of white corduroy with a stiff frame of shell, a shell handle and shell initials. White Shoes at Deauville The Whitsuntide holiday at Deauville was the inauguration of white as a color motif. The popularity of white was especially apparent in the world of hats and shoes. All white shoes were worn even at teatime.

Many all-white costumes also have been seen at the races, though there also are many relieved with a touch of color. Royal blue seems to be the favorite color used to accent white, with red the next in popularity. A large black bakou hat, with an inch wide edging of banana-colored linen, a linen band and a pleated linen fan where the brim was cut away in the back, was noticed this week at teatime at the Ritz. Scallops Predominate The predominance of scallops as a finish has been noticeable at every important social gathering this week. They are used on all types of clothes.

and is wrapped closely around the Strict rulings against the wearing of masks because of their adoption by bandits has been blamed by various costumers for the decline, but Mr. Esser thinks people are mostly "just too busy to bother." During the last few years there has been a noticeable decline even at Hallowe'en parties. "Only children and very young persons seem to enjoy dressing up nowadays," Mr. Esser children in the elementary grades are going in for theatricals. Elementary schools, high schools and colleges supply us with most of our trade.

Grown-up theatrical amateurs usually present modern plays; all they want to rent is butlers' and footmen's uniforms. The head. The wide straw brim, which is sometimes trimmed with appliques or facing of the material, is adjusted over the bandanna, which thus serves as a crown. Linen is the most effective of the novelty fabrics used for golfing outfits. Schiaparelli has made a gored skirt of white linen with trimminjr bands of bright blue, the gores being used to give the skirt ample fullness at the bottom.

She accompanied this by a fitted, sleeveless vest in the same color combination Diffenbacher, Miss Williamin Duncan; Nov. 4, Mrs. Harry Estep, Mrs. W. L.

Ferson, Dec. 2, Mrs. Albert Hanauer, Mrs. A. C.

Houston; Dec. 16. executive board; Jan. 6, Mrs. J.

W. Jarvis, Miss Margaret Kirshner; Jan. 12. Mrs. A.

F. Koegal, Mrs. Alexander Latimer; Feb. 3, Mrs. Olga Lechner, Mrs.

C. D. Monroe; and completed the costume with a fine wool sweater in matching blue, I she became assistant to the editor cf a mining magazine. Lady Rhondda, the famous mil-lioinaire business woman and politician, chose her as her political secretary. In 1918 she joined the office staff of the Parliamentary Labor Party and the following year was given a post on its general staff.

In 1923 she became personal private secretary to MacDonald, who was then the Parliamentary leader of the Labor Party. When he became Premier for the first time, in 1924, she still retained her post. When in school children are the ones who are putting on Shakespeare and other plays demanding elaborate costumes." Big Men For Ead Men This, incidentally, creates another problem. "A few years ago," the costumer continued, "the Elks and the Moose and other organizations were always putting on minstrel shows and we catered to them by laying in a lot of costumes. They picked big men, particularly for end men, and the costumes were ordered accordingly.

Now all that's over and youngsters have gone in for minstrels. We've had to get in an entire new run of costumes. "It's the same way with costumes of other types. They get smaller Feb. 17.

Mrs. H. C. Reller, Mrs. Harry C.

Ross. March 3, Mrs. G. A. Wallace, Mrs.

G. L. Walter; April 7, Mrs. Charles Walters, Mrs. J.

B. Hill; April 21, Mrs. J. C. Wannerj Mrs.

W. C. Kauffield; May 5, Mrs. Samuel Sturm, Miss Mary Floyd; May 19, Mrs. Thomas A.

Kimes. Mrs. Annie Lyons. The social committee, of which Mrs. A.

D. Hunter is chairman and Mrs. Edward Rawsthorne co-chairman, will be hostess at the luncheon, Nov. 18, at the annual outing June 2, and jointly with the music committee, of which Mrs. Thomas A.

Johnston is chairman and Mrs. Harry G. Eakins, co-chairman, at the St. Patrick's Day luncheon, March 17. Officers of the club are: President, Mrs.

Sigmond Stingel; first vice from street frocks to evening gowns. The descending block a modified Greek key design and pointed effects are used as variations from the scallop theme, with Chanel alone In her devotion to the saw-tooth edge. A smart outfit seen at Longchamp was made of white tussor, with a bolero jacket scalloped all around and with the sleeves and roll collar finished in the same way. Scallops also were used at the edge of each seam in the skirt, starting about four inches below the waistline and continuing to a deep yoke depth. 1925 MacDonald stepped out of the premiership and once more became leader of the opposition, she went with him.

When he became Prime Minister for the second time, about 8. year ago, she went right along. Time-Killers, Beware! Nobodv can see the Prime Min i and smaller each year; that is, the people who want to wear them do. This business has its hazards just like any other, but I don't know what we'd do if it weren't for school theatricals. It would be just too bad if the kids should go high-hat and forget the delights of dressing up." president, Mrs.

James McNeil; second vice president, Mrs. C. B. Miller; recording secretary, Mrs. J.

C. Schreiner; corresponding secretary, Mrs. Edward Rawsthorne; treasurer, Mrs. E. W.

Bartberger. Eastern Star Party Mrs. Edna Bergmann, Mrs. Jennie N. Longeay, Miss Elsie Hofer and Mrs.

Margaret Keys comprise the committee in charge of the card party Bellefield Chapter, No. 227, Order of the Eastern Star, will hold at 8:30 p. m. tomorrow in the East End O. E.

S. Temple, South Highland Avenue. ister without being "strained" through Miss Rose's office. She can detect a mere bore or time-killer a mile off. She can shunt others off to cabinet ministers or their underlings.

Between them. Miss Rose end Miss Lshbel manage It so that In his social as well as his business hours, MacDonald has no time wasted. It is far harder to pass those two determined young women and "merely stop in to shake hands? than it is to get by the guards and tecretaries of the President of the United States for that same time-wasting process. One has to be worth telling to get the Prime Minister. Which Is probably why, when MacDonald went to America not long ago on his history-making tour, he was accompanied by his two watchful young aides.

Eastern Star Plans "v- Legion Auxiliary Fetes President The Women's Auxiliary of Allegheny Post, No. 41, of the American Legion, held a short business meeting Friday evening followed by a surprise shower in honor Of Mrs. Mary E. Kraus, president, who is to be married this month. This meeting is the last to be held until September.

The opening event of the fall will be the annual picnic set for Sept. 19 at Riverview Park. Piping Effective Whether it is due to the increased interest in trimming or to an overdose of printed fabrics, piping of contrasting color on frocks of plain organdy, chiffon, taffeta is a frequent feature of afternoon and evening fashions. Outlining the ruf 3f vCcBCtt asrtd Benefit Card Party A card party will be given Tuesday evening, July 29, at the Moose Temple, Roof Garden, Penn Avenue, for the benefit of a native clerical student. There will be bingo, old maid.

500 and dancing. Card playing will begin promptly at 9 o'clock. I'Y Garden Fete July 29 0 Plans Card Party The Protectors' Club of True Dames, Sisterhood No. 48, Daughters of Malta, will give a card party Friday evening. Aug.

1, at 707 East Ohio Street, North Side. fles that are posed peplumfashion over the hips or outlining a little cape, this edging is very effective. i th Ft -V1 Back Yard Makes An Ideal Playground Triumph Chapter No. 136, Order of the Eastern Star, will sponsor a garden party at the home of Miss Elizabeth Mau, Glenshaw, Tuesday afternoon and evening, July 29. There will be cards, other games, dancing and a fish pond.

Miss Elizabeth Mau is general chairman, assisted by Mrs. Mida A Taylor, worthy matron of the chapter: Mrs. George Rickley. Mrs. Frark Cruikshank, Mrs.

Margaret Fetzer, Miss Ida F. Armstrong. Mrs. Ada P. Meyer, Mrs.

Loomis Demp-tey Mrs. Margaret Smith, Mrs. Ida M' 'Craig. Miss Mary Dittmer, Mrs. Bertha Rosenfelder, Mrs.

Cora Col-vin Mrs. Amelia Engelhart, Miss Ruth Meyer. Rose Mall. Mrs. Anna Edgar, Mrs.

Katherine Pfisch-ner Mrs. Edith Yeiser. Mrs. Loretta Lawley. Mrs.

Sadie Bock. Mrs. Ethyl F. Lee, Mrs. Annie K.

Kaup, Mrs Anna McCallum, Mrs. Emma Atkins, Mrs. Gertrude Weaver and Mrs. Helen McCausland. i re a patch of garden available some where.

Wat dltxsusiaaf Jen fhi own ac For enjoyment of one or the other. plenty of sand toys will make up for limited space. Tin pails, shovels and molds with which to make pies and cakes are suggested. Baskets with implements for gardening are great fun. Rubber animals, balls.

sailing vessels for the foot bath "fa cttjtn cftx!) steulf (filled and placed In the garden) offer diversion by the hour and at Many mothers have found that children who spend most of their summers in the sun with little on are well equipped to fight the colds and other ills that winter brings. And because of this, they have gradully come to the point where they toss their tots into the backyard and let it go at that, knowing that after all. Nature probably knows more about those things than they do. The best way to insure healthy fun and plenty of sun for small boys and girls is to let them play in sun suits, of jersey which are heavy enough to keep off breezes, and yet are cut down in back. Bracelet back suits are ideal.

Even babies wear the like and seem to be perfectly happy to play and goo in the sand. If you are not near a beach, or do not go to one for a summer va- the same time are safe. JUUUJ Among more elaborate playthings there are sand boxes with duck pond attachments and umbrella sets with wooden stools or metal chairs. The new wading pool made of specially prepared canvas with a metal frame, measuring five feet by six and about a foot in depth, is simply matchless Partv Planned To Aid Hospital A benefit card party will be given tsv the Ladies' Aid Society of St Joseph Hospital Wednesday afternoon and evening. July 30.

at the Southern Country Club in Camck. Mrs August Buisker is chairman rl arrangements and Mrs; Mary Eayer is in charge ol refreitoments. afternoon frocks and evening gowns. The culotte, or divided skirt, has taken its place as one of the -most practical and becoming of sports modes. Made of such feminine fabric as printed linen, it is worn for Time was when the woman who fished or camped or gardened wore whatever left-overs her wardrobe boasted.

Today, as one can see by the drawings on this page, she gives as careful attention to the details of bapd of the same checked gingham which fashions her blouse. Clever cut is the outstanding feature of the green jersey golfing dress. The blouse is so designed aa to give ample room for the swing of the wearer's arms and yet give no suggestion of bulklnesa. -The summer motoring coat must look cool and yet be capable of keeping ite wearer warm, so the designer of the black and white linen motoring coat below lined it with white wool challie. Under the broad-brimmed straw hat which the gardener wears Is a Made of sturdier material.

It la worn by the camper over shorts of silk or wooL A green covert cloth sou'wester faced with black and black rubber Boots complete the smart fishing costume shown at the top of the page for the pleasure it can give. In addition, there are see-saws, gliders and slides. What more could any child wat? tennis, as shewn in the sketch at her costumes for these and other sports as to the fine points of her Uhe bottom of this page. cation, there is always a sandDile or 7J.