The Pittsburgh Press from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania • Page 10

WAST AD HEADQUARTERS. COURT 4900 -TIIE PITTSBURGH PRESS. OTHER DEPARTMENTS. COURT 8450 SATURDAY, APRIL 26. 1930 NEW RAINCOATS OFFER CHIC VIEW OF WET ISSUE TEN USES DOLL-LIKE MODEL Latest Models Debs in Flurry Wherein We Look Into An Old Abuse By FLORENCE FISHER PARRY I Dare Over Style in Royal Courts Very Colorful And Practical All Are Cleverly Styled to Most Modern Trend of The Mode Decided Chances Await "actress" there, nearly always un Final Decision of Queen ANOTHER "stage- tragedy spreads its sordid story over the front pages of the news.

And, sure enough, the inevitable line appears: "One of the highest paid individual performers in vaudeville." LONDON There is consternation and anxiety among society debutantes here feverishly awaiting the five royal courts next month and in July. They have learned that fashions Oh well, at least we were spared "once the toast of Broadway." That's something. In this particular case, Mrs. Guy Bates Post, or Adele Ritchie, who appears to have shot her friend before killing herself, was a well-known stage figure in her dav. for court gowns are to be very different this season.

The authority i lit? tlZf 1 fv hi i lA Ft I'm? a v-von rAKV A r- jry" for their knowledge ls E. H. Sy-monds, managing director of Rev- illes, one of ttje leading court cos tumiers in London. Gowns this year, he says, will rely on beauty of material and grace of line for distinction. The long- skirted princesse gown will make an savorily connected, and wags her head, and purses her lips, and says, "T-T-TT! These Actresses!" NOW JUST why the word "actress" should serve overtime in the function of general all-round condemnation, I for one fail to see.

The old ignominy which attached itself to the theatrical profession seems to be the one tradition which is destined to die the hardest death of any of our outworn prejudices. With all my heart I protest against this abuse of an ancient and honorable art at the hands of the very group to whom we look for tolerance our news reporters, who must be cognizant of the stigma which their misuse of the word "actress" keeps alive. Enlightened minds do not look upon the stage with the opprobrium of a past generation; why, then, should it remain the hack peg upon which our newsgatherers hang their most sensational accusations? If a story can be draped around the figure of an "actress," it somehow achieves a tarnished glamour no other word can invest it with. WHY THE public has not learned to recognize as spurious and unfair this excessive misuse of a thoroughly decent word, is hard for me to understand. It is ridiculous to assume that almost every, woman who dies in a garret of suicide, every corespondent, every blackmailer, every mysterious suspect, is "believed" to have been an actress! But this it not all.

We are asked to believe that she was at the time "the toast of Broadway." If I were to string in electric lights the names of all the "fallen" actresses whose stardom, in their palmy days, were supposed to have twinkled outside Broadway theaters, it would reach to the furthermost moon. There is, no doubt, a glamour about the stage which laymen will always persist in believing in. But why this healthy curiosity should be turned into undeserved opprobrium by our thoughtless reporters is as far a cry from justice as most of these poor featured "actresses" ever were from stardom. There is one wet question which every well-informed modern can discuss without any fear of treading Upon her neighbor's political toes snd that is the question of how to be chic in the rain! True, there may be a diversity of opinion as to rubbers and umbrellas but everyone will enthusiastically agree that the 1930 raincoats are about the gayest, most practical challenge to the elements which one can make. The new raincoats have been designed to answer the versatile de-Jnands of the modern woman's day.

IBome are planned with a sporting purpose in mind while others have a subtle formality which suggests ShPir smart appearance at daytime affairs in the city. All of them are ttolorful, practical and cleverly styled fio the new trend of the mode. Depart From Wright Suppleness and a determined effort to depart from the heavy rub-beriness of the old raincoat are the outstanding Characteristics of the fabrics bein? used for fashionable rainwear. Silks, woolens and cottons are developed in the cleverest tvays so that they are rainproof and tiowdy-proof as well! If a raincoat hasn't as distinguished and swagger Iir.es as a topcoat, it is a complete loss, fashionably speaking. The trend toward a fitted line hich is being felt throughout the mode finds a definite reaction in rainwear.

Many of the latest models are indicating the higher waistline and the tajering silhouette. Keveral of the foremost couturiers r.ow include striking rain ensembles In their spring and fall collections. Vionnet has designed an unusual Coat in a new rubberized fabric resembles sharkskin. It has a fcigh belted waistline and full skirt. Models Are Shown Two intrepid rain enthusiasts here, lire seen departing on the day's social round.

One briskly dashing by Ls unmoved by the deluge, quite secure in the knowlndge that her some 20 years ago. Mrs. Parry But if she had been on the stage 50 years ago, and appeared briefly in the chorus, or had had a few "spoken" lines, someone, on some newspaper, would have resurrected the fact of her having been an actress, and we would have read, somewhere, that she was "at one time the toast of Broadway." I Dare Say a day does not go by that in some metropolitan newspaper there does not appear the story of the death or scandal of someone who was "once a star on Broadway." once the toast of Broadway, dies in obscure garret." once the most beautiful chorus girl in Manhattan, ends checkered career by suicide." once the reigning queen of the footlights, implicated in sordid underworld scandal." once a famous star, found penniless in gutter." i ideal court dress, he added. The queen is having materials and designs submitted to her at Windsor castle where the court is now in residence, before making her choice. Here is an example of a Reville gown that probably will be worn at one of the courts on May 14, 15.

27 or 28. or at the one early in July, a date for which has not yet been fixed. It gives an idea of the change in fashions. It is of white satin cut on classical lines, fitting closely to the figure, with delicate diamante tracery at each side defining the princesse line. It has a train of white satin lined with poinsettia scarlet georgette.

A Grecian knot in diamante and pearls embroiders one corner of tne square train, ana irom one shoulder falls a long tassel of diamante pearls and crystal. i.V.K, never does it read. Another gown of pale eglantine 20 years ago a ribbon clerk, or stenographer. pink net, which had taken 23- yards of material, has a foliage design in Madeleine Vionnet, famous French dress designer, uses a large doll-like model in creating her various costumes. narrow pink satin ribbon as patterning.

The train is of silver lame, lined with pink net. A debutantes Burgess Bedtime Story fan in Prince of Wales design, of small white curled ostrich feathers goes with this gown. or china painter, or stylist." No. Let a woman ever appear in the chorus of the cheapest burlesque, let her even carry a spear in a mob scene, let her sing a number in a revue, and later, if she figures in any scandal, crime, or any headline news, her "profession" is hauled in and pinned upon her like an accusatory badge, and she is dubbed "actress." And the news-reader scans the news, sees "actress" here and Oxidised lace as a train, lined ondly it is cut to subtly emphasize with orchid mauve georgette, is a decorative foil to another creation of pale orchid mauve satin beaute. The fan to be carried in this case is of shaded uncurled ostrich plumes coat of rubberized crepe de chine which would be appropriate for active sportswear as well as for spectator use.

Full sleeves and a turnover collar give this coat the demure air of a smock. A slide fastening opens it to the knees. Copyright, 1930. Standard Publishing Corp. trimly cut rnmcoat is more than adequate to the situation.

This good looking garment has more than one fashion point in its favor. First it Combines the important black and being made of a black rub-fcorii-ed crepe de chine with, piping f.nd scarf lining of white. And sec- from deep to palest orchid mauve. the essential fitted line. A sporty roadster is waiting at the curb to transport the other chic person to a spectator's seat at one of those golf matches that goes right on in spite of the weather.

She has chosen to wear a slipover The length of the fan is 34 inches. The arrangement of the regula Unusual Bridge Hands tion Prince of Wales court feathers is often a matter on which debutantes and dowagers take the ideas be The auction bidding would of the hairdresser instead of the court dressmaker, according to THE STORY OF SUE By W. E. M'KENNEY Tournament Manager, American Bridge League Although your hand may ap MRS. HOWE'S LETTER BOX The hairdresser is naturally in clined to use the feathers to decorative advantage, he added, but regulations decree that they must stand pear worthless, careless playing of seemingly poor cards may sacrifice high cards in your partner's hand as outlined today.

upright, emblematical of the Prince of Wales' crest. Scores of women In their court NORTH 7-6-2 Grandfather Frog sat still and said By MARGERY HALE Sarah's eyes grew warm with red-Virown fires as Barbara tauntingly sked her why she had not taken lier party to her own comfortably furnished rooms upstairs. "Why are you trying to create a poverty stricken setting for your-ielf, Sarah?" The words which the dresses find on arrival at Buckingham palace that their headdresses have to be rearranged in accord 1 nothing. Disgruntled Husband Asks What to Do About Wife Who Continually Insists on Going Out or Having House Guests Every Night 6-3-2 K-8-7-6 6-4-3 The Ducklings Get a Great Scare By THORNTON W. BURGESS No stranger trust; you'll likely rue Your friendly action if you do.

Old Mother Nature. GRANDFATHER FROG sat on his big green lily-pad in the Smiling Pool. His biggoggly eyes seemed to be half closed. Not even when a foolish green fly came past did those eyes open. Grandfather Frog looked as if he were taking a sun nap.

Not far away Mrs. Quack and all the bay Quacks were very busy getting something to eat. Grandfather Frog could get glimpses of them now and then when they would come out from behind little tussocks of grass or bullrushes, but when he couldn't see them he could hear them. He didn't seem to be in the least Interested in them, but in reality he was. By and by Mrs.

Quack led all the baby Quacks nine of them out into the open water of the Smiling Pool. Such a good time as they had then! They ducked their heads under water and flapped their tiny wings just as they had seen their mother flap her big wings, and swam round and round, having a lovely time. Meanwhile, Mrs. Quack, after looking in all directions to see that none of the Hawk family was in sight, nor Billy Mink, nor Reddy Fox, nor Snapper the Snapping Turtle, swam over to get some corn, where Farmer Brown's Boy had thrown it in the Smiling Pond. It was her usual feeding place and it was near where Grandfather Frog was sitting.

Now, Mrs. Quack was very hungry. ance, not with artistic effect, but with the rules of the lord chamber Despite her watchfulness she failed lain's officials. to notice Grandfather Frog. Per WEST J-9-8 A-J-8 10-4- 3-2 9-8-7 EAST K-Q-5-4-3 Q-10-9-5 9 Everyone who is appearing In the haps that was because he didn't move and his coat was so much the color of the green things around.

throne room has to be seen officially, beforehand, in the ante-room, so that every detail of dress in the case of men and women about to South one no trump, all pass. The Play With no bid from partner. West opens the fourth best of his longest and, strongest suit, the deuce of diamonds, dummy plays the six, East the nine, declarer wins the trick with the jack. Declarer's next play is the ace of diamonds, West plays the three, dummy the seven and East discards the five of spades. Declarer now realizes that he must have two re-entries in dummy to make his contract, and therefore plays the five of diamonds, and here is where the average bridge player will make a grave mistake.

Realizing that the declarer can win both diamond tricks, he would carelessly play the four of diamonds which would permit the declarer to have two re-entries in dummy andj take two club finesses, thLy being enough to allow him to go game. The thinking player, though, would play the 10 of diamonds forcing dummy to cover with the king. He knows the declarer holds only the queen of diamonds and therefore is now unable to have a second re-entry in dummy. (Copyrlrht. 1930.

NEA Servic, Inc.) SOUTH DEALER A-10 K-7-4 A-Q-J-5 A-Q-J-2 Had she noticed it she would have warned the babies to keep away from there. But she didn't notice and presently she was very busy tip enter the royal presence is in accordance with the regulations. Alterations very often have to be like them and we tell them we do not know. Should we 'tell them that we really love them? BLUE-EYED SALLY. Do not tell the young men that you are in love with them, but it is quite obvious that you like them or you would hardly bother to spend so much time with them.

I think you may be quite frank and admit that much. By MRS. HOWE Wives make a mistake when they insist upon dragging hubby off to this or that party every night or even just to the theater. There are bound to be one or two nights each week when his desire is to sink into an easy chair with the papers and simply rest. Many wives do not get out in the afternoon at all and sleep until late in the day so that they are ready made at the last moment.

Another court costumier is mak ping up and standing on her head in the water, while she picked up that delicious yellow corn on the bottom. Each time when she righted herself she took a hasty look at the babies to make quite sure that they ing a feature of frocks for debutante and dowager which show a liquid, lilting voice had asked teemed to dance about the room. Jt was exactly the setting Sarah bad planned in order to make Ted grow braver. As long as he knew she was wealthy, slie was afraid he v.culd let her money tand in his way. "Every girl likes a new setting," (Earah answered lightly at last.

"I Want to show you all that I can be as intriguing in the Cinderella role as in the princess-in-the-tower." Uut her eyes gave Barbara a cool, I teiled warning which put the warmer light they had held out. i Sue noted the look. i "Well, if I were going to attempt tnartyrdom I'd do it on the right rale." the golden-haired girl ans- wered. "I wouldn't do it just to be theatrical. This way, if you are trying to make some nice, poor i young man believe you're as hard matching idea.

A debutante's frock, for example. were safe. Then down she would of pale primrose tulle, will accord go again. The Bidding The hand was played at contract and South, the dealer, opened the bidding with three no trump. Some players prefer two no trump when all suits are not doubly stopped, but with a hand as powerful as this, it is apt to be passed by partner unless he holds better than a trick, while with one in-card in partner's hand, declarer is almost sure of going game.

This would close the with her chaperon's train of prim Now, right there the water was too rose velvet. deep for the babies to tip up and IS LATE FOR DATE reach the bottom. Besides, they were not hungry now anyhow. So I am very much in love with a they just played around. By and by Many Coiffure one of them by chance discovered boy I met in school.

He tells me he loves me and walks home with contracting as all passed. Styles Appear Grandfather Frog. Grandfather Frog had moved ever so little. Right away the babies gathered around at a safe distance, to stare at this Smart Women at Cannes Are me every afternoon, but last Sat-' urday he made a date with me for, 7:30 and I was a half hour When I arrived, he was not there. Do you think he really loves me? He called me Sunday, but was curious old fellow.

They had al ready seen some little Frogs, but never had they seen one as big as Grandfather Frog, and they didn't Adopting Ringlet, Chignon Models WHAT'S IN FASHION Underwear For Men Directed by AMOS PARRISH up for dollars as the match girl was for matches, you're making a grandiloquent gesture for nothing!" Che turned to Ted Merryman. Isn't she, Ted?" And this time her words seemed to hang in the air, as though they had been shot at the end of wires nd posed stiff! y. Sue wanted to ay something that would take them anything to remove the know what to make of It. afraid to speak, as he thought I was angry with him. What can I do? to make whoopee when evening comes.

This is all right a few nights but not all the time. After all, when a man and woman establish a home, they should be willing and eager to spend a few evenings together in it. The strain of a day in an office is often quite wearing and it is enough to make a man say a few bad words when he has to clamber into a "tux" and pretend he is having the best time in the world after eight or nine hours of hard work. Husbands and wives who stay at home all of the time are Just as bad as those who continually gad about. The happy medium is to be striven for in social life as well as everything else.

TIRED HUSBAND REBELS I hope I am not unreasonable or cross, but I do have a grievance I want to air. My wife insists upon accepting an invitation or inviting people in every night in the week and I am getting very tired of it. I like a good party and a nice crowd as much as anyone, but occasionally Br Til Unit PrM I have forgiven him. Grandfather Frog sat still and said nothing. He didn't even blink an eye.

But, Inside, Grandfather Frog NEW YORK Let me quote from a letter from Cannes where many was feeling very good. He had made up his mind he was going to have one of those ducklings. They were effective and often amusing coiffures mad, hurt look from Sarah's face nd the startled angriness from i a trifle big, to be sure, but Grand are discussed. What to do about one's hair ls by no means an unimportant question at the moment. father Frog never hesitates because of size.

More than once he has "The cut at the neckline remains swallowed a "fish so big that the Ted's. She looked at Jack and his keen gray eyes were fastened on Barbara's face as though he tried to find the reason for her words. Grace saved the day. "Money means a lot to you. tail would remain sticking out of his WONDERING BABE.

You were the one in the wrong, it seems to me, and he should be the one to do the forgiving. Of course, I realize that it sometimes happens that it is impossible for one to keep an engagement on time. However, being constantly late for dates is unforgivable. Always make it a point to be on time to the minute. ADMITS HE IS BASHFUL I have just entered high school and am very bashful.

I am con as we have been accustomed to seeing it for a long time, with the neckline trimmed neatly, showing mouth for some time. So Grand father Frog had no intention of at either a point or a round line. The lowing size to interfere with his appetite, so long as there was any chance at all of swallowing what he sides are. longer to permit the rolled up ringlets which are carried straight across the back and pinned flat above the neckline. The caught.

Little by little the baby Quacks general preference is for the ringlets to be carried just back of the now drifted in nearer and nearer to where Grandfather Frog sat. All the time they were staring at him and wondering: who he was and ears and there pinned. This mode sidered good looking and a very good broad waistband widei.ed at has been adopted by many fashionable women. what he was. They couldn't under front Into three-button yoke (Above) new French back tabs (Above) athletic pull-over shirt (Left) Hair Worn Longer Hair ls generally worn longer stand him at all.

They were not afraid, because there was nothing to give them fear. They hadn't been warned against Grandfather Frog. So they Just drifted nearer Your name and address must accompany each communication as an evidence of good faith. Your name tcill not be published unless you wish it, but signed letters tcill be given the at the sides, and the straight boyish bob seems to be a thing of the past. Young women who have Coesn't it, Barbara?" she asked.

I've always had a hunch you Couldn't buy happiness in a pound package or quart jar. But. maybe you can. She shrugged her houlders but her face was alight with something very soft and lovely as she looked at Jimmy Hayden. "It isn't bought," Sarah answered slowly.

"And it isn't given away. I guess it has to be won! And, Barbara, I'm not staging a Joan of Arc stunt. I have every Collar which my uncle left me. And now any man who rides down tny alleyway will be accused of heiress hunting, but at least, you can't ay I'm appealing to the associated Charities for a little bit of lovei" Ted's stubborn chm grew more tubborn and Sarah, looking at him Heetingly, noticed that he turned nd started to joke with Jack as though nothing had happened. Men, he remembered, hated scenes.

They would run from them every time, stfaybe her stay in the settlement bouse was only "going to be so much time out. thoucht of it, too, on the to match the top pieces, are getting I would like to spend a quiet evening. She says I am being selfish when I complain. What do you think about this? DISGRUNTLED HUSBAND. You certainly do have a perfect right to kick and to continue doing it until you can make your wife see that you have the right to insist upon spending two or three evenings a week as you desire.

If you put your foot down, I think you will be able to make her realize the justice of your requests. BOYS NOT FRIENDLY How can I make myself popular with the boys and girls? Some people call me "stuck up" and others say I do not say a thing to them. I have studied music for over two years and do not take an interest in jazz. When asked to play I cannot put "hot stuff" in it. The more nooular.

and nearer and Grandfather Frog grew more and more exciting. But he didn't show that excitement. Meanwhile, he kept a watchful eye never had long hair seem determined to have it, and most heads show small flat ringlets at the sides, but there must be no suggestion of fluffiness. The hair must FASHIONS in men's underwear! Certainly and why not? Try 'to buy a pair of red flannels and you'll soon see that fashions change in men's underwear just as they do in women's hats! A frequently seen combination, however, is a plain white shirt with blue or tan trunks. Stripes, either of the broad variety, or the thin on Mother Quack.

At last he saw her start to swim over to see be close to the head, with every what the babies were look ringlet and every hair in place. ing. at. He knew then that The curled-up roll was perhaps ne must act quickly. He did.

He made a lunge at the nearest baby and just barely missed It. But such a fright as all those babies had originated by the Countess de Mu-noz, who ls a Russian and the daughter-in-law of the Spanish ambassador at Rome. For several years she has worn her black hair, which is glossy and quite straight. when Grandfather Frog so abruptly came to life! How they paddled for Mother! And how Mother swam to meet them! As for Grandfather Frog he dived down to the bottom of the pond and disappeared in the mud. (CopyrUht 1830.

T. B. Burreaa.) dresser. How can I overcome my shyness and be popular with the girls? FRESHIE. Remember that many girls In high school are as bashful as you are.

So take your courage in your hands and start going with them. They will not hurt you, so there is really no reason for you to be afraid of them. ALLOWED OUT ONCE A WEEK I am 16 and in high school. My mother does not allow me to go out except on Sunday afternoons. I am not allowed to go with boys and if I go to a show, I have to go with my sister.

Please tell me what to do. I woulcL like to get out more than I do. BABE. Your mother undoubtedly -feels that you are too young: to go out with boys and since you are in school, that would account for her not allowing you to go out during the week. Try to be patitnt a little longer.

She will soon realize that you are nearly grown and are old enough to have boy friends as well as girl friends. The next story: "Peter Rabit Is Made Happy." over the country, light blues are much in evidence. Green, peach, canary, tan and lavender are also popular in undershirts. Drawers Drawers (or trunks) are fuller and roomier in the seat than ever before, with adjustable waistbands. These trunks usually have pull strings on either side that maybe drawn as tight or are loose as the wearer's waist demands.

Or they may have the new French back tabs that may be buttoned on any of three buttons, depending on the fit needed. The illustration shows this device. Most trunks feature a broad waist band widened at the front Into the three-button yoke or "dip." (See illustration.) The best length is about two inches above the knee, with ample room for free striding. Greater choice of color is found in trunks now than ever before. While white leads in popularity, shirting stripe, rank about on a par with solid colors.

Polka dots and other designs are also favored but not as much as stripes and solid colors. The most commonly worn drawer materials are lightweight cotton sometimes called balloon cloth highly mercerized cottons, silks, flat lisle, madras and rayon. Union Suits Union suits are still popular, of course. But here, too, the tendency toward wider armholes and easy fitting of legs, neck and body is noticed. Colors are much more conservative than in the shirt and drawer combinations white with self pattern being by far the most popular.

Cotton, silk, rayon and mesh are the preferred materials, and many union suits come with elastic webbing that allows stretching across the back. Copyright. 1930. by A mo Parrish Co. Monday: Amo Parrish discusses the new summer cottons for dresses.

Today men of every age are turning to the athletic pull-over shirt and drawer type of underwear. Young men find in it the ease, convenience and trimness they require. And older men, eager," perhaps, to escape any suggestion of increasing years, are taking it up too. Both these undershirts and drawers are being wrorn in a number of styles, colors and materials. Athletic Shirts Younger men prefer athletic-type undershirts of broadcloth or cotton.

Men who prefer greater luxury wear pull-overs of silk, porous mesh or finely knitted ribbed silk-and-cotton. Madras is also a popular material. And most men, young and old, like their pull-overs to be trimly fitting, with generously cut arm-holes, and of ample length. Solid colors are more popular than stripes and patterns in pullover shirts. WTiite, of course, continues in first place.

But the current popularity of blue in men's furnishings extends to underwear; and in locker rooms, all boys only come to my house when I give them a high ball or cocktaiL UNWANTED. The big thing seems to be that you are not interested In the frivolities of the young people around you. They think you are trying to be high hat. I would advise you to keep a certain reserve and dignity, but let the crowd 6ee that you are young, just as they are. Do not invite the boys in for drinks any more.

The friends who only come for these, are not worth having. WANT TO KNOW IF THEY ARE LIKED I am 18 and my girl friend is 17. Wash Cloves train next day as she and Corrine te caramels and leafed through magazines. But she had other things to ponder over. too.

For instance, Harry had seemed very willing for her to go along. She wondered why he thought Cornnne required chaperonage. Corrine, who -as even more able to care for herself than Sue, the older girl sometimes thought. And just why her lor a substitute? Corrinne interrupted her thoughts. "Sue that old gray-haired man bout 60 has been watching you for hour.

You're looking smart too, in that snaky black dress with its fur-touched cape. Why haven you Jned that clothes line before? And ffere he comes to talk to you! partea in tne middle and severely brushed to the sides In a Japanese roll. Other Varieties Seen The Duchess dl Laurino follows a style exceedingly popular with the smart Italian women, a row of turned up ringlets following the natural neckline all the way around. The Greta Garbo semi-bob ls an amusing fashion-for those who can wear it. Of the long-haired devotees are the Baroness de Graffenreid (Dor othy Gould), daughter of Frank Jay Gould, Miss Jean Ferguson, and others.

Miss Ferguson wears her hair waved simply and brushed back into a small old-fashioned knot low on the neck. The Baroness de Graffenreid wears a modish chignon. To keep washable leather gloves in good condition, add a' teaspoon of glycerine to the water in which they are washed. Easy Peeling Hard boiled eggs peel off their shells much more easily if you plunge them into cold water when we go witn two ooys we us.e very much and every time we go out with them they want to know if we (CopyrlrM. 1930.

XEA Serrle. IneJ NEXT: A train conversation. taking them off the stove. blues, tans, lavender and yellows..