The Pittsburgh Press from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania • Page 57

1 I I II I. I II- I.I I I ITALIAN 'GOOSING RECIPES Some of the Favorites of a Well Known Italian Chef. ITALIAN cookery has In recent years be- II come so popular that many Italian II dishes are as well known, at any rate In the larger-- cities, as 'chicken a 4 if la Maryland or clam chowder. But few American cooks have yet tried to master what they Imagine to be the Intricacies of Italian cookery and when an effort is made to cook spaghetti, for example, in an American kitchen the result is generally an insipid mess. Yet Italian cookery is simple and very economical, which is a great recommendation in these days of soaring food prices.

Besides, It 4s exceedingly wholesome, the best proof of which is found in the fact that indigestion is almost unknown among Italians. There is nothing remarkable about the popularity of Italian cookery, for cookery as a fine art originated In Italy, and most of the Best cooks have been Italians. The French learned cookery from the Italians in the days following Catherine de Medici's marriage to the son o'f King Francis afterward King Henry when eo many Italians came to France In her train. 3 mZ--M -t'mf lid wmx feF 1 -v 1 I 1 I 1 I I 't: i 1 1 1 Sv A white ostrich boa of There are in New York several hundred Italian restaurants, but, strange to. say, the more (pretentious they are the less Italian Is their cuisine.

It is a fact that in some of the humble, small, inexpensive restaurants the cookery is finer and daintier than in the large and expensive places. But to taste Italian cookery in perfection one must be taken as a gueBt to the Circoio Nazion-ale Italiano (Italian National Club), No. 11 East Forty-fourth street, the membership of which Is composed of all the wealthier Italians in the city, with a small sprinkling of Americans who have close business or social relations with them. The chef there is a Neapolitan, Carlo Ijentini by name, but he does not at all confine himself to Neapolitan dishes, being able to serve the favorite viands of all the (provinces of Italy, each of which. has its own specialties.

Scarf and parasol, richly embroidered and trimmed with ruchings and i Scarf of black Chantilly lace V- with niching of tight gray marabout. this year light, fluffy airiness is the first essential. MMEDIATELT -furs are placed in colJ storage the milliners and modistes, for the results can for both their effects, bend their energies to the production of the -newest forms of lace and featiher -wliicb. scarfs and boas are to take that season. There is just enough, of real protection needed against the random chill breezes The three examples shown above, all from the atelier of a well-known Parisian designer, strikingly reflect the season's modes.

In the centre Is seen a conventionally modelled ostrich boa, which, if rumors from the French capital carry any -weight, is to be a popularly Tevived fashion this summer. At the right Is a handBome scarf of black Chantilly lace allover. trtomed of late spring and summer to form a real utilitarian basis for the delicate creations whicb. float to daintily on my lady's shoulders. with a ruchdng of light gray marabout.

At the left is a scarf and parasol to match of richly em- bpoiderei material trimmed with -niching of white marabout. Some seasons the materials used, both in fabric and feather, are heavy and cumbersome, tut CROSSING THE ATLANTIC WITH ''BIG TIM" SULLIVAN BY GUS ROEDER. I wasn't exactly a case of shanghai that CARLO LENTINI. Chef of the Italian National Club, New York City. things that should be in every fritto misto.

These are calf's brains, calf's liver and fonds Asparagus tips, bits of cauliflower or any other vegetable that will fry should form a part of it, and tiny chicken croquettes, croquettes of mashed potato and other similar things are often added. Be it observed, that these materials are not all mixed each different Ingredient is dipped in the batter separately and each morsel should appear upon the dish In its own coating of batter or egg end crumb. Quarters of lemon should be served with it, these to be squeezed over it. is another dish that majr be made in many different ways, depending upon the materials at hand. It consists of email envelopes of freshly made paste, each containing a finely minced stuffing made of meat and herbs.

For instance, chicken, a little ham, very Kttla onion and parsley, all minced to a paste and softened with an egg. makes an excellent filling. Making the envelopes can be learned only by experience. The paste is made from flour and eggs, kneaded and rolled repeatedly until experience tells the cook the dough reached "the right consistency. Any one who has made noodles can obtain good results by working this in exactly the same way.

When the paste has reached the proper consistency it Is rolled out thin and cut up with a knife, a glass, or a wheel-with zigzag edges, into pieces about two or three inches square. Upon each of these is placed a little of the filling, which has previously been cooked. Then the paste is folded over, the edges being moistened that they may stick, for it would spoil everything to have them leak. They are placed in a kettle of boiling salted water and cooked like spaghetti for ten or fifteen minutes, the length of time depending upon the thickness or thinness of the paste and its consistency. The ravioli are heaped upon a dish.

Butter and a sauce such as you would serve with spaghetti are poured over them and grated cheese is served on the side. RISOTTO MILANESE Two pounds of Italian rice, four ounces of butter, six ounces of Parmesan cheese, one onion, three grams of powdered saffron, pepper and salt. Chop the onion very fine and brown it In two ounces of good butter. When the onion begins to color, turn in two pounds of rice and two cupfuls of meat broth. Boil over a hot fire, being very careful to stir continuously and to add from time to time enough broth1 that the rice, while not becoming too liquid, may remain consistent.

After ten minutes add three grams of powdered saffron in a little broth, also salt and pepper to taste and continue the cooking for ten minutes longer. Then mix in the other two ounces of butter and three ounces of grated Parmesan cheese and serve-with the rest of the grated cheese on a separate plate. SCALOPPINI AL MARSALA. -Two pounds of leg of real, eight ounces of butter, a wine- glassful of Marsala wine, a little white flour, parsley, pepper and salt. Cut the veal in small thin slices and pound them until they are about a square inch in size, then dip them in tha flour.

Melt the outter in a large frying pan and cook the veal in it over a hot fire, first on one side, then on the other. Add pepper and salt When you see that the veal is 'Decerning brown In about ten minutes add the Marsala wine, mix well and let simmer over a slow fire for five minutes longer; then serve, sprinkling finely chopped parsley over the meat ZABAGLIONE. OR ZABAIONE. Six eggs, four teaapoonfuls of powdered sugar, three wine-glassfuls of Marsala wine, one liqueur glassful of maraschino. 1 In a deep bottomed casserole beat the yolk of the six eggs and the sugar together hard for six minutes; add the wine and the maraschino and place over a gentle Are; or, better sti'l.

la' a double boiler, never ceasing to whip with an eggbeater until the contents become stiff enough almost to hold a coffee spoon straight up when-placed in the middle. The process takes from' tea to fifteen minutes. Pour out into tall glasses or cups and serve either hot or cold. Why, I Just got through running up." This Incident ahows with -what ease Senator Sullivan manages to make a friend go abroad with him. Every day since Coney Island faded away, the Senator has been on deck.

Sometimes it's the promenade deck and then It's the poker deck. He plays pinochle with his friends and takes Big Tim Sullivan practised on Col. Mike Padden to get him on board the" good ship Rotterdam, but it was some- their money, and he plays draw with strangers and takes theirs. He plays no favorites. A card sharp sat In at a game with the Senator the day out.

The Senator wen his The following are a few sample recipes which are favorites of the club members. Each is given upon a basis of preparing it for six persons: BY CARLO LENTINI, Chef of the Italian National Club, New York. MINESTRONE One pound of rice, three quarts of good bouillon, a little grated parme-ean cheese, salt, pepper and as many different binds of vegetables as possible. is really a thick vegetable 'soup, that' is often almost as thick as a stew. Boil the vegetables in the 'bouillon and wihen they are about three-quarters done add the rice, pepper, salt and a little grated parmesan cheese, and cook until the rice is soft.

It should take about twenty minutes. Most people season it at the table with more grated cheese. SPAGHETTI, ALLA ARI ARA. here are hundreds of ways of serving spaghetti, macaroni and the other Italian 'pastes, but they differ only in the sauce that is poured over them. In each case the spaghetti itself is cooked the same way.

To have spaghetti good the imported ar-. tide must be used. Spaghetti Is made in America, but almost all of it turns soft, mushy or pasty when boiled; the imported remains firm if cooked properly, it must be put into a large quantity of boiling salted water, a gallon or more for two pounds of spaghetti, which is about enough for liberal "portions for six persons. The length of time it is boiled depends upon the taste of the eaters, some preferring it underdone, others liking it quite soft. About twenty minutes of hard boiling is a good average.

When it is cooked it must be thoroughly drained from the water. The sauce alia marinara is prepared as follows: Chop anbnion and a clove of garlic fine and fry them in olive oil; add a few clams, either whole or chopped as you prefer, and cook for five minutes; then pour the whole over the spaghetti. Cheese should not be served with this. SPAGHETTI AL SUGO DI CARNE. Cook the spaghetti as usual and pour over it a sauce made as follows: Chop an onion and a clove of garlic fine and fry them in leaf lard; beginning to brown, add a pound of chopped beef and half a glass of clartt.

When this ha3 partially cooked, add some chopped carrot, celery, a bay leaf, pepper and salt and cook Xor an hour over a slow fire, being careful not to let scorch. By this time it will have become thick. If it becomes too thick add a little bouillon. Press it through a sieve and pour over the spaghetti. Some people add tomatoes to the sauce when cooking, but this is a mistake, as the tomato flavor spoils that of the meat, and is better reserved for a purely tomato sauce.

The meat used In making the sauce need not be minced, but may oe cut Into small pieces, as for a stew, and after the sauce is made be taken out and used independently for some other dish, for by no means all its goodness Is taken out. With spaghetti al sugo grated parmesan cheese should he served. FRITTO MISTO. As this dish depends upon the season of the year and the individuality of the cook, only general rules for preparing it can be given. Its name means "mixed fry, and it consists of many different thlng3 cut into pieces, each of which is about a mouthful, dipped separately in thin batter or egg and bread crumbs and fried in butter or lard.

There are certain money. During an intermission at the ship's concert Congressman Wharton called upon the Senator to say a few -words. He did. He said the only crooked thing in the Fourth Ward was Pearl street. n-.

It! IMJen interested In politics, mothers with growing sons, young women on their way to see the even the clergymen on board have been to Senator Sullivan asking his opinion or seeking his advice. He charged one man $5 In change for an opinion on the coming nominations, and the man good naturedly passed over the money. The Senator threw it down to the steerage decks for a scramble. Colonel Padden. Senator Sullivan.

thfng like that. Being myself a passenger and having seen it all, my testimony is competent. Senator Sullivan's cross-the-ocean-and-see-Eu-rope party, as the passenger list shows, was originally the Senator, Assemblyman Harry Kopp, Banking Commissioner Count Ralph Delli Paoli of New York, whose father is a cihevaHer and a banker; former Republican Congressman Charlie Wharton of the stock yards district of Chicago, and the correspondent who writes this. Col. Padden -was an added Btarter.

He, with large numoer of Sullivan's friends, were at the Hoboken pier to see the Senator off. They brought flowers enough to suit even a prima donna. Just as the gangplank was about to be hauled ashore the Senator saw the Colonel. "Say, boys," called the Senator to the crowd on the pier, "put Ool. Padden aboard.

I want him to enjoy the scenery. He needs tfie too." The crowd hesitated. The Colonel thought it a joke, but it wasn't. "One, two, three!" commanded the Senator. "Aboard with Mike!" Judge McQuade, Morris Rose, Larry.Mulligaa, Jack Fitzgerald, Judge Dinneen and- other abie citizens thereupon played the; shanghai upon the Colonel.

He was pushed, sboved, marched, dragged and boosted aboard, and once on deck the Senator embraced him so fondly and long that the stevedores had time to separate the 6hip and the Colonel from New York. "Why, how do you do, shipmate," said Sullivan. we're glad to see you." the Senator. "Come, now. Colonel, take it easy You're run down and need the voyage." "Me run down?" questioned the ColoneL give a thousand dollars to get ashore!" storm-ed the Colonel, drawing a roll.

"I'll give two thousand If you succeed," said Crust Is Better Than Crumb complete than 1b the case with the crumb, every one has generally focind out for himself, as the plasticity of the crumb, and especially that of new bread, prevents to some extent the salivary attack. If new bread were AY discussion not infrequently turns upon the relative merits of as thoroughly masticated as dry, stale bread is bound to he, there would be no reason why It should be less digestible. the crust and crumb of bread, says the Iancet, and the matter is often referred to the family medical adviser as to which of the Just What Is "Old Sheffield OOK out when you buy "old Sheffield plate" that it la genuine. II United States Consul Daniels, at Sheffield, England, reports to the State Department that the Cutlers Company of Sheffield has suc cessfully prosecuted two of the leading dealers in England for selling two i3 more digestible. Analysis shows very little difference in regard to the constituents of each, but the crust of course contains much less moisture and so is richer in solid constituents.

The crumb contains on an average of 43 per cent, of moisture, while the crust contains only 20 per cent. One important dietetic difference between crust and crumb is the fact that the former contains an increased amount of soluble carbo-hydrates -owing to the action of Intense heat, which the crust receives, compared with the crumb during "baking. Moreover, the crust has a more pronounced "bready" flavor than the crumb, a flavor which is attractive and which stimulates the flow of digestive juices. i That the -digestion of crust in the mouth is much more likely to electroplated ware, under that name. The British courts decided that the term "Old Sheffield Plate" may be used only on articles made fusing plates of silver upon copper, and that It is fraudulent to use the term for electroplate.

i The old method was to braze or. weld a thin sheet of silver upon each side of a sheet of copper and then roll this to the required thickness..