St. Louis Post-Dispatch from St. Louis, Missouri • Page 133

May 15, 1977 511 ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH Austrian Country Life Is Good Life There are too many romantic passages between buildings that demand exnlora-tion. Such shops. On this ycore Salzburg holds its own with Rr-me, Vienna or Geneva. The stores in Getreidegasse may not be as large is those in those other cities, but the quality of merchandise is outstanding.

You'll also find concerts at times at the Residenz and Mozart's home. Then there's the Marionette Theater where puppets "perform" operas, often Mozart's. There was a self-service restaurant and we sat over tea, watching the Austrian hikers, strollers and picnickers and promising to return some dav. anchovies. Excellent.

Just because you're in Salzburg offseason, don't think you won't find the performing arts flourishing. The Schloss Mirabell is one place to hear music, and we had our choice of an entire week of chamber music by Haydn, Schubert, Dvorak and others. Tickets are available through American Express, Mo-zart-platz 5. Above the shops and adding to the atmosphere are famous old iron signs, each with the establishment's name in l. rvl Mi By Penny Perry c1977, Chicago Daily News HOF, Austria If you're planning to visit Salzburg, you can double your enjoyment, sample Austrian country life and save at least a little money.

Just stay at Jagdhof. This seventeenth centry farmhouse is now an inn with 20 rooms. It's a 15-min-ute drive east of Salzburg and is adjacent to one of Austria's luxury resorts, the Hotel Schloss Fuschl, once the hunting lodge of local archbishops. Jagdhof does not suffer in comparison to its fashionable neighbor. It has the same views of Lake Fuschl and a simple charm that invites slow-paced activity.

The patio overlooking the lake is perfect for reading or contemplating winter in warm sunlight. Even at this time of year, people from Salzburg come to Lake Fuschl for an outing, a lunch or perhaps a stroll. The dining room is beamed and full of hunt trophies, things such as deer heads and antlers. There are paintings of the hunt, too. The food, seasonal meat and fish from the area, is excellent.

Two unusual features of Jagdhof include a hunting museum with world-record trophies, poachers' weapons, dioramas and what the inn says is the world's largest collection of pipes. Then there's that great other attraction Salzburg itself. It is rated as one of the seven most beautiful cities of the world and I wouldn't argue. It's a city that intoxicates with its plazas, arcades, narrow streets, gardens and fountains. Of course, there are some who wouldn't think of visiting Salzburg except during the music festival in late July and August.

But at that time concert tickets are scarce and so are accommodations. I prefer Salzburg off-season when one can revel in the ambience. After parking the car in the newer section of town, we walked the older, more interesting part. There's no sense in trying to see the old part of town in an orderly fashion. intricate design.

At No. 9 on Getreidegasse is the birthplace of Salzburg's most famous son, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozar. the house is painted gold and now is a small museum containing the composer's cradle, spinet and other memorabilia. Needing refreshment, we headed for another Salzburg landmark, Cafe Toma-selli on the Alter Markt. Founded in 1703, the cafe has sidewalk tables, tables inside and an attractive terrace upstairs a perfect spot in mild weather for an afternoon rendezvous.

We enjoyed tea and apple strudlel and then wandered toward Residenzplatz, the very heart of old Salzburg. The plaza (once occupied by the Romans) is a showplace for a beautiful fountain that's floodlit at night. Two minutes away is the Domplatz and the Salzburg Cathedral, completed in 1628 and considered the finest Italian-style edifice in Austria. Wolf Dietrich modeled it after St. Peter's in Rome.

Today people enjoy the cathedral for its grace and size (It seats 10,000) and for the concerts that draw some of eu-rope's finest singers. Its organ, said to be the world's largest, has 4,000 pipes. Soon we were ready for a restaurant and we were in luck. Very near the old Benedictine abbey of St. Peter we found r-gttgMfcg ig-: 1 Boat tours along the scenic Lake Delton section of the Wisconsin River are the most popular attraction in the Wisconsin Dells.

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