St. Louis Post-Dispatch from St. Louis, Missouri • Page 33

MONDAY, JULY 20, 1953 ST. LOUIS 3D The Final Assault on Mt. Everest Martha Carr's Contract Bridge By Ely Culbertson OPINION 16 I OM THE EVERYDAY MAGAZINE Dear Martha: THE letter published recently In your column written by the young woman who married on the rebound and finds herself still in love with the first man makes me IT would be unfair to say that there was a defensive error In the following hand, but the fact remains that the slam contract could have been beaten. North-South vulnerable. J32 VK63 9432 4764 feel I must say something of what has been my own experience.

There is no minimizing this emotion called love and it is like putting on a pair of blind NORTH y'L-L V'-v -jCT ers. One cannot see the shortcomings in the loved one as one clothes them 8 10874 1085 J9532 VQJ92 AKQJ7 K108 in all the virtues. So it is SOUTH I I I that even though she disagreed enough with him in the first place to have a quarrel, she refuses to All rhrtmnphi Copyrliht. by Tlrjif, Jot. A VIEW OF THE TREACHEROUS RIDGE HILLARY AND TENZING SIR EDMUND HILLARY, IN THE LEAD, AND TENZING LABOR UNDER HAD TO CLIMB BEFORE REACH-FULL EQUIPMENT UP A STEEP SLOPE OF MT.

EVEREST. NG EVEREST'S SUMMIT. Hillary Tells of Cutting Steps in Snow, Surmounting 40-Foot Rock Barrier as He and Tenzing Kept Climbing, Finally Reached Top of Highest Peak By Sir Edmund Hillary This Is the second of four articles written by the two daring conquerors of Mt. Everest Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing. Sir Edmund rives his account of the adventure in the first three articles.

Tenzing's own story follows In the fourth article. Yesterday's article told how MT. WISEST SUMMIT, 29,002 Ft. MOVING UP FOR THE FINAL ASSAULT ON MT. EVEREST, TENZING, AT LEFT, AND HILLARY TEST THEIR OXYGEN AT 22,000 FEET.

IN BACK IS A SHERPA CARRIER, ANG NIMA. AK1097654 M5 6 AQ West North East South Pass Pass 2 Pass 2 Pass 64) Pass Pass Pass No one can deny that South had a tremendously strong holding, but his single-handed slam bid was nevertheless an out-and-out gamble. West led the diamond king, then the queen. South ruffed, drew one round of trumps, then entered dummy with a trunp and ruffed another diamond. Thi's left the diamond nine blank in dummy.

South then cashed every trump, keeping two hearts, the diamond nine and one club in dummy. West held on to a high diamond, and K-10 of clubs and one heart, leaving it to his partner to stop the heart suit. YVhen, however. South then cashed the heart ace and led to the heart king, west was squeezed. He could not afford to give up the high diamond, so he blanked the club king.

Thereupon, having placed West with the club king for his opening bid, declarer led directly to his own club ace, ignoring the opportunity to finesse. When the king dropped, the slam was home. Considering his bidding, it was inconceivable that South had two diamonds. That being so. West snly furthering the enemy's interest when he continued with the second round of diamonds.

Admittedly, it was difficult to foresee any bad effect from that play but observe that a shift by West to hearts or spades would have made it impossible for South to ruff the two rounds of diamonds that robbed East of his stopper in that suit. With East allowed to keep the diamond ten, the squeeze would not have been operative. 11:30 A.M May Tf, 1 11:30 A.M.,Moy,, I JJif-ZSL sou kmrt 4 1 fTj) yKffitft HatT Ttmlm ktm -K AJ, My iM I fi)r ''SL'iX 1- LMOTSI TR arms I could muster, I literally cramponed backwards up the crack, with the fervent prayer that the cornice would remain attached to the rock. My progress was slow, but steady, and as Tenzing paid out the rope I inched my way upwards until I could finally reach over the top of the rock and drag myself out of the crack onto a wide ledge. rralize that his failings are still there.

Losing love is hard, but to be disillusioned by love too late is even more painful. On the other hand, even though she doesn't have the same attraction for hpr husband, he loves her and is good to her. The fact that she would write you for advice shows that she has a conscience. It is one thing to wish, but it is something else to take the step because, as you put it so very well, Martha, it is against common sense and decency. One suggestion to this reader is to apply herself to being a good wife, making a good home and good friends, taking up various activities, and she will be surprised to discover she is becoming happy.

Another is to get out and really take a good look at the world, at those who are struggling against poverty, illness or brutal home surroundings. Next, examine some of those marriages that looked so blissful. She will be horrified to find the amount of disillusion and heartache with a brave front for the world. And then suddenly her good husband will look awfully good. ANOTHER READER.

I hope the young woman who wrote the original letter will read yours, because it adds a great deal to my answer and will give her a new insight into the problem. I agree with you whole-heartedly. She made her choice. She married a good man, one who loves her. Her only fair course is to forget the other man and to give all her attention to her home and her husband's happiness.

IN ANSWER TO Brown Eyes: I can only urge you to take your mother's advice in this matter. He may seem like a nice fellow, but If for some reason he has a bad reputation, you shouldn't be going with him, especially If your mother has asked you not to do so, It's mighty easy to get a bad reputation, just by associating with the wrong people, but it's not so easy to regain a good name, once it is lost. IN ANSWER TO Confused: If you and your fiance cannot agree on a religious faith, by all means talk to your clergyman before deciding whether to marry him. Don't assume that he can change his beliefs any more than you can change yours, and if it is to be a stumbling block to happiness, better to separate now than to marry and be quarreling constantly about it. Daughter's 'Debt1 back of one hump, another higher one would swing into view.

Time was passing and the ridge seemed never-ending. To save time I tried crampon-ing without cutting steps, but quickly realized our margin of safety on these steep slopes at this altitude was too small, so went on step cutting. I was starting to tire a little now. Tenzing was moving very slowly. As I chipped steps around still another corner, I wondered rather dully just how long we could keep it up.

Then I realized that the ridge ahead, instead of still rising, now dropped sharply away and far below I could see the East Rongbuk Glacier! I looked upward to see a narrow snow ridge running up to a sharp point. A few more whacks of the ice ax in the firm snow and we stood on the summit! Copyrlfht 1953 by Time, Inc. TOMORROW: The return to safety. Hillary and Tenzing had struggled to a point far up the side of the mountain. Today's installment begins as the two daring climbers continue their efforts to reach the top of Jhe world's highest mountain, which hitherto had baffled all efforts to climb it.

AS we were fighting our way up the ridges, we found that our first partly full bottle of oxygen were exhausted, so we disconnected them and threw them aside. We turned on our remaining full bottles 800 liters of oxygen which should give us four and a half hours' going at three liters per minute. Our apparatus was now much lighter, weighing only about 19 pounds, and I felt a distinct sense of freedom and well-being. As my ice ax bit into the first steep slope my highest hopes were realized. The snow was crystalline and firm.

Two or three rhythmical blows of the ice ax produced a step large enough even for our oversized high altitude boots. And, best all, a firm thrust of the ice ax would sink in halfway up the shaft, giving a solid and comfortable belay. We moved one at a time. I would cut a 40-foot line of stops, with Tenzing belaying me as I worked. Then, in turn, I would sink my ax, put a few loops of the rope around it and Tenzing protected against a breaking step would move up to me.

Several of the cornices were particularly large and in order to escape them I cut a line of steps down to where the snow met the rocks. Half scrambling on the rocks and cutting handholds in the snow, we managed to shuffle past these difficult positions. On one of these occasions I noted that Tenzing seemed to be breathing with difficulty and stopped to examine his oxygen set. I found that his exhaust tube, some two inches in diameter, was blocked with ice. I was able to clear it out and give him much needed relief.

On checking my own set I found the same thing was occurring Map Copyright. 1953. by lurk Duly Ulirur. FOR a few moments I lay still, regaining my breath. For the first time I really felt the fierce determination that nothing now could stop our reaching the top.

When I had recovered I took a firm stance and commenced towing in the rope as Tenzing, in his turn, wiggled his way up the crack. He collapsed exhausted at the top like a giant fish that had just been hauled from the sea after a terrible struggle. I checked our remaining oxygen and roughly calculated our flow rates. Everything was going well. Tenzing had been moving rather slowly, but was still climbing safely and well.

His only comment when I inquired about his condition was to smile and wave along the ridge. The ridge continued as before giant cornices the right, steep slopes on the left I went on cutting steps. We had no idea where the top was. The ridge curved' away to the right and as I cut around the DRAPES MADE FREE! With (urchin il nitarld I trkd tl.25 mil m. StiS By Dr.

Paul Popenoe Choosi from one ol ST. LOUIS' LARGEST SELECTIONS OF DRAPERY AND SLIPCOVER FABRICS FLORALS, MODERNS, PROVINCIALS, METALLICS ANTIQUE SATINS and from then on kept a much closer eye on this problem. The weather for Everest was practically perfect. This did not mean that it would be an ideal day for the beach, but equipped as we were in all our eiderdown clothing and windproofs we suffered no discomfort from cold or wind. HOWEVER, on the one occasion on which I removed my snow glasses in order to examine more closely a tricky section, I was very soon blinded by fine snow drawn by the cool wind.

I hastily replaced my glasses. After an hour's steady step-cutting ascent, we reached the foot of the most formidable-looking problem on the ridge, a 40-foot vertical rock step. We had seen this step through the binoculars from far away Thy-angboche Monastery and real-ized that at this altitude it might well spell the difference between success and failure. The rock itself, smooth and almost holdless, might have been an interesting Sunday afternoon problem to a group of expert rock climbers in England's Lake District, but here it was a barrier far beyond our feeble strength to overcome. But once again a possibility of tackling it remained.

On its east side was another great cornice and running up the full 40 feet of the step was a narrow crack between the cornice and the rock. Leaving Tenzing to belay me as best he could, I moved Into this crack. Then, kicking backward with my crampons, I gained a purchase on the frozen snow behind me and levered myself off the ground. Taking advantage of every little rock hold and of all the friction of knee, shoulders and SLIP COVERS FOR SOFA AND CHAIR Material and CO50 CORNICES MADE TO ORDER i 97 Labor Complete 16J to. iSKOADW AY COHENS ofn St.

Evening Till 9:00 P.M. Wiimiiiiiim. 34 Yuri Sim Locitlin REFRIGERATORS SPECIAL LARGE TRADE-IN 2 HAMPTON ELECTRIC I Let's Explore Your Mind By Dr. Albert E. Wiggam REGULAR JJ.95 V41UE Mtn'i "Notlonally Advtrtiud" SATIN "lASTlX" VfBL i kHUk.

rtdr IT costs money to rear children, send them to school, feed them and pay their doctor bills. People who marry expect their children to cost them money. It's part of the price of the happiness that marriage should bring and all Intelligent parents pay It gladly. But did you know there are some who actually want their money back? What do you think of Joyce's father? Listen to her: "I'm 23 years old, making a good living, and want to marry. For the past two years I have been engaged to a young man in the Navy.

He will be coming home this summer and we'd like to marry then. My difficulty is that my father insists I must first pay him back the money he spent on my education. "I live with my father and mother the latter Is easygoing and doesn't have much to say. I wanted to go through college and my folks really couldn't afford it but my father put a mortgage on the house to send me. He says I am honor bound to pay off this mortgage before I leave home.

I turn over most of my pay-cheek to him now, but it will be nearly three years before he would feel that my debt if it is one is satisfied. "I haven't dared to tell my fiance about this, Dr. Popenoe. I know if we married he wouldn't be satisfied to have me continue to work merely for my father's benefit. I just can't see any way out.

Can you?" WHEN A FATHER tries to hold his daughter in this way it is often because of a desire to keep her at home and dominate her, quite as much as for financial reasons. I remember one such case I dealt with years ago at the American Institute of Family Relations. The daughter wanted to manry; father insisted she must first repay him for her education; she got a job and did so; then could she marry? Not at all. "Now, you'll have to repay the $800 I spent on having your teeth straightened when you were in high school," the father informed her. Such outrageous treatment is as inexcusable morally SWIM TRUNKS 92' Emily Post's TELEPHONE TIPS r.nTr'c 8oo FRANKLIN firandts 2.

DOBS EVERY ONff HAVE AN APPOINTED TIME TO DIE Open HjonJay illp. m. YOUR OPINION. MONDAY-TUESDAY SALE! Brain Game MILITARY leaders are the subject today's quiz. Six correct answers is excellent.

1. Who defeated Napoleon at Waterloo? 2. Can you name the last Saxon King of England, who was slain at the Battle of Hastings? 3. Who commanded the Flying Tigers? 4. Can you name the British general killed at the siege of Quebec in the French and Indian War? 5.

What Rhode Island Quaker proved to be a military genius in the Revolution? 6. Which general won the Battle of New Orleans in the War of 1812? 7. What general was nicknamed "The Southern Swamp 8. "Black Jack" was the nickname of what World War I general? ANSWERS. 1.

The Duke of Wellington. 2. King Harold. 3. Claire Lee Chennault.

4. Gen. James Wolfe. 5. Gen.

Nathaniel Greene. 6. Gen. Andrew Jackson. 7.

Gen. Francis Marion. 8. Gen. John J.

Tershing. Make a tall narrow window seem larger by outlining it with a wallpaper border. BRAND NEW ELECTRIC IRONERS 3. QOES A father's '29 2. SHOULD ENGAGED PERSONS KNOW Ves nou JNCOME BRACKET REFLECT WSCHILDRENSBMN VOUI? OPN'ON LONG EASY TERMS i-OUR DISPLAY INCLUDCS- Answer to Question 1 YES.

They should take the "Sex Knowledge Inventory," devised by Dr. Gelolo McHugh, Duke University, Durham, N. C. It is astounding how little knowledge and what an APEX BENDIX THOR HOTPOINT UNIVERSAL, fK CM. M20 04 PINE Vftim thm Hum Kltni unity Sine I Mm woman writes: "I understand that nervlce is faster when long distance calls are placed by numberbut what happens when I don't know the out-of-town number?" The operator will place your call even if you can give her only the name and address of the person you're calling.

To do this, however, she must reach the Information operator in the distant city and that causes delay. Your local operator will repeat the number for you and it's a good idea to jot it down for future reference. Then, next time, call by number and your call will go through more quickly. A housewife asks: "Is it proper to extend and answer invitations by telephone?" It is perfectly permissible to extend informal invitations by telephone. However, a telephone invitation should not be given at the last minute.

It is also permissible to accept or decline informal written invitations by telephone. Only formal invitations require a written answer. A party line user writes: "Will you please repeat your rules for good party line manners?" (1) Keep conversations reasonably brief. (2) Space calls so others have a chance to use the Line. (3) Always comply with a request to hang up because of an emergency.

(4) Most important consider your party Line neighbors as you would have them consider you. OFF THE RECORD By Ed Reed REPOSSESSED" 3-ROOM OUTFIT so $99 BEDROOM, LIVING ROOM, KITCHEN SIS. 00 DOWN $1. SO WEEK Open Thurt. and Frl.

Till P.M. CH, 3397 or CH. 0488 amazing assortment of wrong information people have about sex, men more so than women. Taking the test would save much unhappiness and many divorces. Only trained persons can give it.

Answer to Question 2 If so, many millions have missed their appointments in recent years. In 1900, the average man had his appointed time, to die at 45, but science has increased this appointment to 68. If you have an appointed time to die, why take care of your health and why not walk in front of autos, as many do, or stop your auto on a railroad crossing? Answer to Question 3 Slightly. Psychologists divided groups of children by their father's occupation day laborer, semi-skilled, skilled, business; professional. Their IQs ran in the same order on the average, but the differences were extremely small.

Many competent psychologists believe the tests are not accurate enough to tell the difference if any. Anyhow, you can't predict a particular individual's brains by his father's job. I1 as it is legally. If you assumed some sort of definite moral obligation to repay your father, of course you must live up to it, Joyce. Talk it over with your fiance and get him to agree that you can continue your job for a while and pay a certain amount each month to your father.

BUT IF YOU ASSUMED no "debt of honor," then I think you'd better leave home and run your own affairs. Vour parents should be very anxious to see you happily married, rather than interfering. If they aren't willing to consider your welfare and happiness, you'll have to look out for yourself and you are entitled, at your age, to do so. In any case, it's time for you to marry if you have found the right man. That's my Idea and if any father who reads this column has a different idea, I'll be mighty glad to hear from him.

Social Problems By Emily Post A WIFE writes: "I would like to know what you think is the best way to handle payment of a large bill under the following circumstances. We are 10 couples who have been putting aside a small amount of money each week for an evening at a well-known supper club. We all have the lame amount In the which we figure should cover the price of dinner. However, there are some In the group who will undoubtedly have cocktails which, of course, will bring the bill up a good deal. Should the others in the group be expected to pay this additional expense? My husband Is the 'banker' and would like to know the correct procedure to follow." Your husband should pay the check for the dinner, and the check for the drinks should be paid by those who had them.

This arrangement should have been understood and agreed to by all at the time the dinner was planned. WATCH REPAIR mm ON SIXTH STREET Btwtn Locust oftij St. CharlM i HAIR-WARTS MOLES REMOVED PERMANENTLY ly Ikctrolyilt In Mtdlcol Rtftrtuctl CwimltatiOK Without Chorat II YEARS EXPERIENCE MIwl ll.ctroloqlit CH. Mil Salt Iff Arcodi ltd and Oliv An advertisement of Southwestern Bell Telephone Company "LUNCH IS READY JUNIOR WILL YOU SEE IF YOU CAN WAKE DADDY?" ffi f- ri ii i.