St. Louis Post-Dispatch from St. Louis, Missouri • Page 63

.1 'a TTV 1 1-JL. 'JUS mm. Inches Larger Around Just Three 3v IS Than the Famous Model of Catherine de Medici, and Whalebones and Stays and Tight Lacing Are Responsible for It, of Course RlB IN A NORMAL WOPWCS 0OPV. 1 31 0 3H-. 'fl ji.

fiW! fvt.V centers and causes chronic diseases. Prolonged lacing finally twists the ribs so that they crowd organs of digestion, the heart and lungs to- ge'her in such a way that they do not have room left for healthy action. Dr. Galbraith. In her book, outlines what 6he considers the reasons for women's refusal to heed warnings of the doctors against tight-lacing.

the first place, sba says, anathemas have usually been hurled against tight lacing instead of against corsets, and she remarks sarcastically that the woman who practiced tight lacing has never yet been found. Every woman admits wearing corsets, but she is sure the arguments against tight lacing do not apply to her, no matter how tiny her waist may be. Dr. Galbraith also blames habit. She points that girls wear corsets because their mothers In fact, the mothers encourage them to begin early in order to obtain good figures.

Dr. Galbraith thlnVs the smattering of hygiene taught in girls' schools until recently is also responsible 8CST THE AOT VMAN CM girls' failure to appreciate the dangers of lacing. I inally, she contends, girls are led to believe that their lot in life is that of the invalid and that care of the body will not bring them health. When men discuss the tight-lacing question they have a fine opportunity to point to them- ft I II Ml A life size Measure it with a rule and prove it. A man's literature Is in the household register of Eleanor, Countess of Leicester, in 1265, and in those days men as well as women strove to look like wasps.

Richard, King of the Normans, and his son Edward, who died in 1318, had corsets in their RXA1RE'S BOPV WOULD SHQV Mile Polaire Wears a Necklace as a Girdle A Man's No. 16 Collar Easily Encircles Her She Is the Bete Noir of the Hipless, Curveless Woman real thing appear In wasp-waists. That was when Catherine de Medici made hers the size of an orange and all the court ladies had to follow suit and tighten their string Catherine's corset was made of steel, like a coat or armor. It opened lengthwise, with hinges, and fastened with a hasp and pin. In front and back there were bars of steel which held the dress just so.

Queen Elizabeth, over in England, helped; the cause along by whalebone stays. Her successor. King James, liked her ideas bo well that he wore Queen Elizabeth's corsets and made all his courtiers do the same. Then came George II, always in a corset that equaled London Tower as A thing of torture. All his courtiers had to wear them, and even the soldiers went to battle laced like fine ladies of the present day.

Unfortunately, history does not tell Just when man woke up from his dream of distorted beauty and cast off his whalebones and stays. Anyhow, he did and for the past two centuries women have had a monopoly of corset wearing. TT I 6 mm 16y-inch collar would serve her as a belt. In the fourteenth century the women practised tight lacing and so fascinated the men by their new figures that the Emperor Joseph of Austria forbade the wearing of corsets and the court physicians began a warfare against But not until the sixteenth century did tha the casual observer sees a sloping roof and wln- dows rising from this piazza, but he does not see or get any idea of a very handsome stone library building back of but connecting with the house where the men live. This library is filled with valuable books, works of art and material bearing upon the Skull and Bones.

The house itself has every convenience and is open to all members of the association during the summer months A DISTILLERY the supposed conclusions of the Agricultural Department officials As to cost of manufacture are correct the cost per candle power hoar would be cut in half. In the alcohol lamp the illumination is obtained by heating the burner, which causes the alcohol to vaporize; the vapor mixing with the air creates a gas. The resulting light is more nearly like daylight, and consequently less trying to tne eyes, than, any other. The light is not operated from a wick, therefore there is no cleaning and trimming of a wick to be done. The heat radiation is only slight, the lamp does not smoke, Is entirely odorless and can be handled without danger of explosion.

For heat and power purposes it has not yet been demonstrated that alcohol 'is superior to gasoline. In fact, the latest deductions appear to be that one gram, 0.03527 ounce, 15 grains, of gasoline will equal on complete combustion 11,000 calories, while one gram of pure alcohol will produce 7200 calories. Commercial gasoline of the grade usually used for fuel will produce about 9700 calories per gram. Weight for weight, the advantage as a beat producer appears to be with gasoline rather than ajcohol. But if the Department of Agriculture succeeds I.

lemonstrsting the practicability of the farmer's converting economically his unmarketable products Into alcohol, its usefulness as a heat producer on the farm will be established. The use of alcohol motors for agricultural purposes will become quite common as soon as the technique of construction is complete and the cost of the alcohol is anffioiAnti low Tha use of alcohol by the farmer, produced from farm produce at a cost of from 25 to 30 cents per gal- Ion, 95 per cent pure and tax free, will produce a complete revolution in the methods of farm pow- er supply. .1 1 0 1 Tori pMiiii sPk WOMAN has now "advanced backward" almost to the ideal of the sixteenth century, when Catheiine de Medici made a 13-inch waist the goal of all women in the courts of Europe. Mile. Polaire, aided by the corset-makers of Paris, is leading the world's fashions this year" with a waist 16 inches in circumference only three inches larger than the model waist of the cruel Catherine.

Mile. Polaire has fought for a year for the tiny it is her victory that causes the passage of the hipless and curveless woman. Hips and curves are again in style and Mile. Polaire is the ideal. i Around her tiny 16-inch waist she wears neck-places aa girdles.

A man's No. 16 collar would easily encircle her. In diameter her waist is only five and one-third inches, not much more than the diameter of a big red Missouri apple. The hipless, curveless corset was in some respects considered more healthful than the corset which pinches the waist to the smallest limit. It did not require such contraction and allowed the vital organs more room for their natural activities.

But. the hipless style has been short-lived Woman is to return to the old pinching corset which will once more become "the chief suppon the doctors." Physicians have fought for years against such corsets as Mile. Polaire decrees the fashionable woman must wear. Prof. Virchow, the famous pathologist, recently said in disgust: "What' is the use of introducing the principles and ap- pliances of hygiene Into the huts of the poor and the ignorant, when the scions of wealth, pre-i' tended intelligence and fashion, especially the gentler sex, show their contempt of hygiene by their dress and general wearing apparel? In days gone by I have battled against the diabolical invention called the corset, but this crusade has been given up by me as absolutely futile." Dr.

Anna M. Galbraith, a well-known woman" physician of New York, has written a book on "Hygiene and Physical Culture for Women," In which she vigorously opposes tight lacing as the cause of most of woman's ailments. She declares a corset, even loosely worn, acts like a 'surgeon's split, used to make the thorax immovable while a broken rib is healing. She tells how the corset presses the ribs against the stomach, liver and heart, impeding the action of all these organs as well as of the lungs. "Now, where can the fashionable woman's stomach turn to while she eats her dinner?" she asks.

"Or how can the liver be able to receive the blood laden with the products of digestion?" Tte Ml.l fhrwiPF Thorcrnvt FRANCE. Tight lacing, she says, Impairs tho action of the heart a motion pump tnd Keeps it from Us proper position tn the body. It is frequently the cause of woman fainting, produces organic diseases of the heart and has been known to cause death after vigorous exercise. I Dr. Sargsnt made a series of experiments with the effects of tight lacing on the lungs.

He found the average lung capacity when corsets were worn, to be 184 Inches. This capacity increased to 167 Inches when the corsets were removed. Thus, according to Dr. Sargent, tight lacing reduces the lung capacity by almost one-fifth. Lacing also, the physicians say, has a harmful effect upon the nerves.

It irritates the nerve i PAGE SIX yii-'-l iva i. ,4 H' I -1 the the In out do. for 44 It the past in the a this He ta an not a in Skull and Bones" Unique i T4 kAAn -v, a a It became Among American College i The above picture of Mile. Polaire's waist is selves with pride, for men, too, wore corsets a few hundred years ago, but quit because they found them harmful. WThat finer proof of his superiority can a man find than this example of his wisdom? One of the first references to corsets found in necessarv in the course of time to have these thlngsproperly The result was a group of mysterious buildings on this island of mysteries.

His own privr.te residence is at the north end of the island. The south half is leased to the Deer Island Association. There are at present three buildings one a clubhouse for -nen atone, one where men may bring their wives and daughters, and the third a vast stone struc- 1 i I 1 i FEDERAL GOVERNMENT OPERATES The smallest musical instruments in the world are the pigeon whistles of Pekln. They are made of thinnest bamboo and tiny gourds, scraped to paper-like delicacy and fastened beneath the tall feathers of the carrier pigeons. As the birds fly through the air these instruments emit a weird aeolian melody like the harps of fairyland.

Dears are taxed in some Japanese villages. Organizations Counts President of United States Among Its Members. The incoming set of "Bones" men for the year 1909-10, Including President Taft's son Robert, will have their first "Heart-to-Heart Talks" in the early part of September, whence they go direct to Yale for their last year. Immediately after their graduation next spritg. following an established custom, they will all meet again at Deer Island early in July, spend a week together and separate as a body, though survivors of that set will meet there again from tim to time, gathering as -tf old about the giant fireplaces built in the open air, smoking their pipes and talking of life's richer and broader experiences.

At the extreme end of the island is the Ledges, for the accommodation of the feminine members of their families. The managing director of the association, William Beebe, professor of mathematics at Yale, and Mrs. Beebe, live at the Ledges. The association has every sort of boat, frora tha tiniest canoe to the sturdiest motor boat There are two beautiful tennis grounds, archery targets, diving boards and huge fireplaces in the woods, around which the men cluster and sing these latter entirely out of sight from the water. It is said that the house has a choice collection of tableware, linen and furniture, alt designed in the weird symbols of the Skull and Bones, and that the walls of its rooms are covered with pictures, portraits and texts commemorative of the fraternity's history.

The men are summoned to meals by a mysterious bell, three caps upon which are followed by twice two taps "822" being the symbol which appears in everything connected with tha society, the exact significance of which Is unknown to those outside. The Skull and Bon en, traditionally at least, takes to itself the best of Yale'a sons those who achieve or inherit special distinction, To be a "Bones man" you mutt have done something rather big In some way that counts. Just being a "good fellow" generally isn't enough, or just being prominent in athletics isn't enough, although last season's chosen members included the captains of the football clevis, the baseball nd polo teams and the captain of the crew. On the night of the last commencement the Bores men were In full force, bearing at their head President Taft, President Hadlcy and Chauncay Depew. Has a Summer Home on an Island of Mysteries.

HE Skull and Bones stands at the head of American college societies. It is old enough to have three generationr of one family as members. President Taft's father was one of the nrlirnol "Bnlmil" mAtl PrOBldon To ft hlmsolf original "Bones' men. President Taft himself belonged to the fraternity and his son Robert had good fortune to be chosen as a member this spring. The society is probably unique also the fact that it has a summer home literally island of mysteries.

This summer home of the Jkull and Bones is known as the Deer Island Association, and is on the southern end Deer Island, one of the most beautiful of the Thousand Islands, situated about a mile aid a half from Alexandria Bay, New York. During the season literally thousands at people, making a tour of islands or following the St. Lawrence, between Montreal and Toronto, pass this island every day, yet of these thousands scarcely one konwa aught of the teries cf this association. The outsider, if he not anvthing at all in connection with the epo sees oniy that a few college boys are usually in evidence on the piazza of house which overhangs the American channel at point, reac' ng a depth of tcarly 190 feet, may see them taking headers from the diving boards, and if he observes very closely he may catch a glimpse of a tiny fraternity pin fastened the bathing Jersey that pin being as much a part of the youth as his numb or his ear. Some fifty years ago, when property in the Thousand Islands could be picked up for a song, enterprising Albany merchant bought two islands.

At his death vhe smaller one went to the Rev. Douglas Miller end the largd one to George Douglas Miller both Ya.e graduates and both members of tha Skull and Bones of ale. Cranks have been defined aa "things that make nrTioola crr rrki-in4" mm 4 a I tnt. est. n.ivu.o vuuy iuu it nig qik()u' clety gets clogged it wiL probably not be wiiue George Douglas Miller is a part of it.

He has only always been obsessed by a fervent devo- tion to the Skull and Bones, but has done every- thing in his power to perpetuate its history and strengthen its bonds. He has not only collated vast amount of the society's men.orabil!, but his travels around the world has collected anything which has seemed to him to have the remotest bearing on its workings. ture, the principal feature of which is a great baronial hall, for which there is apparently no purpose. But the secrets of the society ate as deep as the secrets of the sea, and as closely guarded. At present the most Interesting house, the Out- look, is the club for men.

Surrounded by trees, little of this is visible to those who pass by on the river, although the pleasure craft almost graze a corner of the overhanging porch. Besides this, market by Dr. Wiley personally in order that he might observe its condition and therefore be the better informed in summing up the results. He also personally superintended the operation of the plant. At the present time he and his assistants are engaged in summing up the results of the experimentation.

The exact proportion of alcohol produced by various vegetables will be discussed at length in a report; as also will be the primary or necessary cost of production. While it is impossible to learn at this time the conclusions of the officials, it may be said in a general way that the alcohol can be distilled from refuse and unmarketable vegetables and farm products at a cost of from 25 to 30 cents a gallon. A feature of the report of Dr. Wiley will be a discussion of the practicability of individual farmers distilling their own products at a profit; 1 feasibility of co-operative distillation plants in thickly settled communities. The uses to which industrial alcohol, usually denatured, are applicable are constantly increasing, while the technical uses of alcohol are numerous.

Admittedly the uses commanding first atter.tion are included in the problems of heat and illumination. These are problems ever pres-e; with those who reside in localities remote from centers of the production of wood, coal, gasoline, natural gas and oil. Alcohol is a leader lllitmlnoftnTi a nu ugeucy iui In EuroDe, where the greatest variety of lamps. ranging in power from ia can ales to upward of 1000, are in use, it is employed not only for the lighting of dwellings, but also streets, public buildings, lighthouses, etc. As an illumlnant it claims the advantage of economy It rives from four to six times the light of kerosene.

At an actual cost of 60 cents per gallon the cost per candle power hour of operating an ordinary household alcohol lamp is about 1 1-4 cents. If rOST-DISPATCII OCTOBER 10, 1909.. ITHIN gunshot of the White House and the Capitol the Federal Government has itself been oneratin? a distillerv. The distilla tion plant was not conceived with a view of evading the internal revenue laws, yet there was no special tax issued for its operation. The output has not been of the regulation "moonshine" Character, and there was no effort at concealment, though the approach to the plant, located in the rear of 1358 Street Southwest would indicate such.

The undertaking has not been one for profit, but for scientific research. Dr. Harvey W. Wiley. Chief of the Bureau of Chemistry.

Department of Agriculture, has been the chief distiller, and he is going to publish to tne world the results of his exDerience; a demon- sfration of the methods of making, the sources and the uses of denatured alcohol. During the operation of the distillation plant a course of lectures was given to representatives from all the agricultural colleges of the country and from the various State experiment stations. In thl course every matter connected with the practical operation of a distillery; the growth of the banana and its uses; the use of molasses; the possibilities of the cactus; the production tnd chemistry of malt, and the technique of makicg the principles, theory and conduct of mentation, including nroner temperature, den- sity. principle and nroducta formed the denatur- (n nl.nuAl i th. i.ca rt wi mvMJuui mm aenaiuranis, auu denatured alcohol for.

manufacture and medicine was discussed by' officials of tha Bureau of Chemistry. The object in view, directlv, has been to deter mine by practical demonstration the value of the various farm products as alcohol producers to determine the feasibility of the farmers' utilizing byproducts and unmarketable fruits and vegetables in the production of denatured alcohol. All material used at the distillery was bought in the open SUNDAY MAGAZINE -ST. LOUIS 71 I I vV.