Democrat and Chronicle from Rochester, New York • Page 34

421 DFMOCRAT AND CHRONICLE, ROCHESTER, N.Y., MONDAY, JULY 1, 1991 El Taino's food isnt fancy, but it's good and plentiful El Taino 146 Lyell Rochester Hours open: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 10 a.m. to 1 0 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Closed Sunday and Monday.

Phone: 454-6522. Ratings By Janet Lively Democrat and Chronicle Some restaurants you go to when you're in the mood to eat out. Some you go to when you're just plain hungry. El Taino Restaurant, 146 Lyell Avenue, is among the latter. There's nothing fancy about its Puerto Rican-style food, but it's good and you get a lot of it.

"Rice, Beans with Meat," which leads the nine-entree lineup, comes with a dinner plate full of yellow rice. Beans in a brown sauce are served in a separate dish and the ribs come on yet another plate. The seasoned rice was delicious and the But they seemed less popular than the barbecue ribs, chicken and roast pork sitting under heat lamps in two glass cases on the front counter. The restaurant was crowded throughout the noon hour, with most of its 15 tables full and a steady stream of carryout customers at the counter. Service was nonetheless quick and attentive and we finished our meal in less than an hour.

We didn't stay for after-lunch coffee because the coffee we had before the meal was bad, muy malo. Midwest truckstops serve worse coffee, but not by much. Otherwise, the meal was satisfying in a stick-to-your-ribs way. Lunch for two cost $11. Waiting time 0 Service Food Privacy ca iojjw hi.

Visa M.C. A.E. Major credit cards accepted: Good OK Poor Access for the disabled; ii Restaurant A AVENVE nOCHESTCR. NV ho 4M-63S2 Anoi, H.ibichuelas Came $.1.50 B-B-Q con Cuineos con Tostones EnsaUrfj 6.00 Otejitas con Cuineos Bisloc 6.50 I'cscja con Papas Fritas 5.50 Fni.ii.iJa do Pulpo con 7.00 Lechon con Guineos 5-1. 00 Cnsa'aJa de Carrucho con Tostones 7.75 beans were tasty, although both were so understated that I spiced them up with some red liquid from an unlabeled bottle on the table.

The ribs, cooked with almost no sauce, might not have passed the test of some rib connoisseurs, but they were juicy and tender. (Eat all that for lunch and try to go back to the office and work. Resisting the urge to slip off for a nap will take great willpower.) My co-worker who came along for lunch tried the "Beef Steak with Fried Plantains and Salad" with a Diners in the restaurant over the lunch hour included families, people dressed for office work, teen-agers and a priest. Almost all conversed in Spanish. The menu is printed in both languages, as are the signs on the wall.

One sign, a large red sign with white lettering, warns patrons in Spanish and English: "Drugs or drug talk not permitted." The owner of the restaurant was quoted last year as saying he hasn't had any problems with drugs in his establishment; the sign is a preventive measure. While the sign may deter drug dealers, it might give other first-time customers the im- 2.75 2.75 2.25 Genesee Greece mHe Ave. Lexington Ave. 1 yell Ave. El Taino, 146 Lyell Ave.

Y. iWest Ave. PJ 33A Dnpaii'daJo di Lechon Enipatedado de Costilla Emp.ucd.ido de Polio Lechon Asado; lb. Polio Asado Costill.is B-B-Q; lb. por las especutes del dia Pttlre 75 1 00 so 50 65 1.25 Cjlaa (Dpinde la Clal I'lllanoi jamitquir.oi Uv' Vipii do luti 5 53 1 00 iO .50 Cilo.

Te Han Rochester Gates Democrat and Chronicle side order of beans Spanish-language side and rice. The fined plantains were a little dry and the pounded steak was not exactly tender, but it had an interesting flavor like it had been soaked in a vinegar marinade. Had we been more adventurous, we could have ordered "Pigs Ears with Boiled Green Bananas" or the "Octopus Salad with Fried Plantains," also on the menu. of El Taino's menu. pression that they've wound up in a seedy place.

In fact, the patrons seemed much more interested in eating and talking than conducting illicit business and the dining area is bright and clean. A bar runs along one wall, although the only alcohol served is Budweiser. A jukebox on another wall plays songs with Spanish names. Large plants sit in the curtain! ess windows. The tables have pink tablecloths under glass tops.

Two of the walls have large mirrors, with dollar bills pasted around one of them and Christmas lights encircling the other. The only theme to this decorating scheme is Indians. El Taino is the name of the indigenous people of Puerto Rico and pictures and figures of Indians in the restaurant pay them tribute. An acquaintance tells me she often orders carryout food from El Taino when she doesn't feel like cooking and I understand why. The restaurant's generous portions of good, cheap food are bound to keep people coming back.

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