Democrat and Chronicle from Rochester, New York • Page 62

SUNDAY DEMOCRAT AND CHRONICLE. ROCHESTER. MAY 27. 1984 )D TRAVEL LINE For a free copy of Adirondack Area Fishing Waters, write the Adirondack North Country Association, Box 384, Adirondack, N.Y. 12808.

H0KEYK00H TRIPS Couples planning a honeymoon should carefully consider the kind of trip they want and how much they can afford, say travel advisers. Story, 17D. Democrat anD (Chronicle j-v mi. ii ii. in nun.

i i. i inn, i. UljTJU nran HOT SPOT 4SUt fSx 'Dy'lK Hist-: tI jAMUSEMENT PARKS Memorial Day weekend is a big time for parades, pic- ics ana visits 10 amusement parks. And if you re m- rested in amusement parks, you could do worse than ve in Rochester. There are three amusement Darks within an hour's jdrive of Rochester Darien Lake south of Corfu on ute 77; Roseland Park on the lake in Canandaizua Seabreeze Park at 4600 Culver Road.

DARIEN LAKE, which developed from a camping ea Buffalo businessman Paul SnvrW hnimht oyM IV i i I V2 ill L' 1 Alan Lillell Half-timbered buildings from 16th century line canal in Strasbourg's oldest quarter. Maison des Tanneurs Restaurant, center, features Alsatian specialties. the largest theme park in the state. There are 30 major Irides and 8-10 rides for children on the site. iNew this year is the Hydro Force ride on which people plummet down a chute from a 65-foot tower and skip fecross the water on Darien Lake.

i A giant ferris wheel 165 feet high, built for the 1982 tKnoxville World's Fair, was added to the park last year. JThe Viper, a roller coaster with a pretzel twist, a cork-iscrew turn and a 360-degree loop, was added in 1982. The park also contains a creative playground for children, a petting zoo, a water slide complex, a Whitewater iraft ride and 2,000 campsites ranging in price from $15 fto $75 a night The park opened yesterday. Its season will run Labor Day. Hours for the park are 9 a.m.-8 p.m.

on weekdays and 9 a.m.-lO p.m. on weekends through June 21. From June 22 to Labor Day, the park will be open from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day.

i The Pay-One-Price, which covers all rides and attractions, costs $11.95. General admission, which does not cover rides but includes live entertainment and use of the beach and pool, is $5.95. Parking costs $1. Children 3 -and under get in free when accompanied by an adult. To get to Darien Lake, take 1-90 west to Exit 48A, Route 77 south to the park entrance.

(1-599-4501). SEABREEZE PARK, one of the state's oldest amusement parks, opened in 1879, when it was the last stop on the trolley line. Seabreeze now offers 21 rides, including six for children; a creative playground; an arcade with 100 games; 6n? of the oldest carrousels (1915) in the country; a classic 1920 wooden roller coaster called The Jack Rabbit that has been rebuilt in the past 10 years; and the Wildwater Log Flume ride that will open in June and replace the Over the Falls water ride. Seabreeze Park has been open on weekends since May 5. It begins a seven-day operation tomorrow (7-11 p.m.

on weekdays and noon-11 p.m. on weekends). From June 20 through Sept. 9 the park will be open from 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.

on weekdays and noon-11 p.m. on weekends. You can get a Pay-One-Price pass for unlimited use of all rides. The pass costs $6.25 on weekdays and $7.25 on weekends. Tickets for individual rides are also available.

There is no parking or admission fee. Seabreeze Park is at 4600 Culver Road (323-1350 or 323-1900). ROSELAND PARK honors the 100th anniversary of the roller coaster by introducing The Dragon, an Italian-made coaster ride for people who don't want to be ii of Rhine ven on Lorrame Wst Germany Karlsrutift France Strasbourg CAIsacel Miles 30 Switzerland 2 Ray Valla Democ'al cino Ctnoi'iuti French province of Alsace provides nouvelle cuisine with a German flavor, but there is much to see and do if you can pull away from the table By Alan Littell Bf you've ever had a yen for tangy fleischschnacka washed down with a vintage Gewurztraminer or a dark rich beer called Schutz of Mutzig, the place to go, you'll surely say, is Germany or Austria. Wrong. It's France.

Yes, France. Alsace, to be precise. That's the long, narrow province of vineyards and plow-land shelving from the Vosges Mountains to a wide flat plain backing onto the Rhine River, France's eastern frontier with Germany. Alsace sits astride the main autoroute (A-34) connecting southern Germany to Paris. From the French capital it's about a 300-mile, five-hour train or car ride away, an hour by air.

Little known outside Europe, Alsace is a region of stunning natural beauty. It is a land of forests and streams, rolling meadows and green fertile valleys. Crumbling castles guard its high ridges. Medieval villages lie half hidden in the folds of its hills. BUT ESPECIALLY IT IS A LAND where food and wine are taken very, very seriously.

Alsace is a gourmet's Eden, a glutton's garden of earthly delights. Or as any Alsatian will tell you with a roguish glint in his eye and a thumb cocked disdainfully across the Rhine: "Know why the portions we serve are so big? German influence. The quality, of course, is French." An ancient battlefield in the wars between France and Germany, the province changed hands repeatedly between the two countries. But although Alsace remains French in language and in a certain relaxed, casual outlook on life, it displays especially in the pleasures of the table a decidedly German flavor. Dining, for example, in Strasbourg, Alsace's graceful, Gothic capital, blends a taste of both cultures.

Standout restaurants range from the elegantly French Buerehiesel (4 Pare de l'Orangerie; telephone 61-62-24) and Maison du Boeuf at the Hilton International Hotel (Avenue Herrenschmidt; 37-10-10) to jostling, noisy taverns called winstubs where staple farm fare like fleischschnacka (meat-stuffed pasta) adds Teutonic weight to nouvelle cuisine. Worth a special trip is L'Arsenal, an intimate oak-beamed 6('srro decorated with cartoons by Tomi Un-gerer (11 Rue de 1-Abreuvoir; 35-03-69). A six-course meal with wine will come to $20 and include Alsatian specialties like blood pudding with apples and onions, wild pigeon in red wine and that famous cheese, preserved in walnut oil, from the nearby village of Munster. For a spectacular view of old Strasbourg as well as for inspired cuisine, the Maison des Tanneurs is not to be missed. The patina of centuries clings to this rustic Throughout the wine country, tastings are offered free or at nominal charge, accompanied by slices of knugel-hnpf, the yeasty regional coffee cake.

Incidentally, you can buy most local wines for less than $5 a bottle. A few miles from Riquewirh you'll come upon the bustling wine-market center of Colmar, crisscrossed by picturesque canals and the River Lauch. Twenty miles farther south, on the outskirts of industrial Mulhouse (pronounced Mul-OOZE), are two must-see attractions. One, the brilliantly conceived Railway Museum, enthralls with its vast displays of engines and carriages dating from the 19th century (Musee Francais du Chemin de Fer, 2 Rue Alfred de Glehn; open daily except Dec. 25, 26 and Jan.

admission $3). At the nearby National Automobile Museum you can while away an absorbing afterncxm among acres of gleaming Panhards, Citroens, Porsches and Bugattis (Musee National de 1-Automobile, 192 Avenue de Colmar; open daily except Tuesday and Dec. 25 and Jan. admission $3). NO TOUR OF ALSACE would be complete without a day trip to the forests and flower-festooned mountain villages north of Strasbourg.

At Betschdorf, on Route D-243 a mile east of the main Haguenau-Wissembourg road, a 200-year-old tradition of pottery-making survives in studios producing and selling gray-blue tableware embellished with striking folk motifs. Nearby is Lembach, where you can spend an hour or two exploring a dank warren of underground artillery emplacements, a relic of France's World War II Maginot Line. When traveling in this part of Alsace, Lembach is also an excellent place to stop for lunch. An old coaching inn called L'Auberge du Cheval Blanc is one of the great showplaces of eastern France. Rating a well-deserved star from Michelin, it offers such delectations as salmon in crayfish sauce and crepes kirsch.

A superlative meal costs less than $25, with wine. As with so much else that you find in Alsace, it is a feast for the senses and a bargain to boot. If you're going to Alsace TWA, Air France and Pan Am fly from the United States to Paris, Alsace's nearest international gateway in France. Major car rental agencies are located at airports and train stations in Strasbourg and Mulhouse. Accommodations in the province range from bed-and-breakfast establishments at a few dollars a night to glittering hostelries like the Hilton and the Holiday Inn in Strasbourg at around $80 double.

For a free hotel guide, contact the French Government Tourist Office, 610 Fifth New York, N.Y. 10020 (212-757-1125). The Tourism Department, Maison du Tourisme, 9 Rue du Dome, 67000 Straslxmrg, France, will gladly respond to queries and pinpoint major regional attractions including specifics on dining and coach tours. The Michelin sectional map No. 87 (Vosges-Alsace) is an indispensable travel guide.

Available for $1.25 at gift shops and bookstores throughout Alsace. Alan Littell is a free-lance travel writer who lives in Alfred. Km Dr Democrat and Chiowe low-ceilineed inn overlooking a canal at 42 Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes (32-79-70). A heaping platter of the gloriously zesty house specialty, sauerkraut, steamed in white wine and juniper berries and garnished with ham hocks and salted pork loin, costs $25 for two, with steins of local beer. But for a glimpse of Strasbourg that has nothing to do with gastronomy, set out on foot.

Wander through ancient precincts along dark cobbled passageways with names like Ruelle des Roses and Rue des Meuniers. Stroll past half-timbered houses whose high-peaked gables lean precariously toward one another, as if weighted by time. MIDWAY BETWEEN THE CHURCH of St. Thomas, where Mozart once played the organ, and the magnificent 12th-century cathedral, whose monumental sandstone spire dominates the Alsatian plain, linger for a while in a delightful square called Marche aux Cochons-de-Lait (Market of the Suckling Pig), with its shops and sidewalk cafes. Pause, too, at the palatial Chateau des Rohan, an 18th-century riverside mansion housing collections of art, archaeology and local history (open April to October, admission 50 cents).

For an unusual glimpse of the old city, take one of the sightseeing vessels circling Strasbourg's medieval center on tributaries of the Rhine. Hour-long cruises start and end at the terrace of the Chateau des Rohan March 17-Nov. 4 (tickets telephone 84-13-13 for daily departure times). In addition to being an enticing travel destination in its own right, Strasbourg is a convenient base for exploring the riches of the surrounding countryside. The most popular excursion is a one- or two-day ramble down Alsace's Route du Vin (Wine Road).

From Marlenheim, a few miles west of Strasbourg, this narrow network of back, roads stretches 90 miles south to Thann across vine-covered foothills of the Vosges. Here, climate and geography have combined to yield slow-ripening grapes and some of France's most justly celebrated wines. Presented in long green bottles called flutes, the wines of Alsace especially the whites are light and fresh, and best drunk young. In fairy-tale villages like Dambach, Guebwiller and Riquewihr, look for signs reading degustation-vente. They point the way to tastings and sales of dry crisp Rieslings, exquisitely light Sylvaners, robust spicy Gewurztraminers, and the heady Tokay d'Alsace.

turned upside down and threatened with heart arrest. This coaster is rated PG, in other words. There also are 14 major rides, including The Skyliner roller coaster, which drops 65 feet, and eight rides for children. The arcade, which has more than 100 games, is like a museum of the history of coin-operated games. There are also picnic grounds along the shore of Canan-daigua Lake, a bandshell for live entertainment and a water slide complex across Lake Shore Drive.

Admission to the park grounds is 50 cents. Children under 5 are admitted free. A Pay-One-Price pass for rides is $7.95, and $9.95 for rides and the water slide. An all-day pass for the water slide alone costs $4.95. There is no parking fee.

Roseland Park has been open weekends since May 5. It will be open today from noon to 11 p.m. and row and weekends through June 23 from noon to 9 p.m. From June 6 to June 23, the park will be open Wednesdays through Fridays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

After that, the park will be open seven days a week through Labor Day from noon to 10 p.m. There will be a fireworks display at the park at 10 tonight. This is the 59th year for Roseland Park. To get to Roseland Park, take 1-490 to Route 96. Follow Route 96 through Victor and turn south on Route 332.

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