The Palm Beach Post from West Palm Beach, Florida on November 21, 1968 · Page 53
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The Palm Beach Post from West Palm Beach, Florida · Page 53

West Palm Beach, Florida
Issue Date:
Thursday, November 21, 1968
Page 53
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FM4-Post & Times. Thursday. Nov. 21. 1968 The Mustardseed Holds A High Place In History . ." Anyone wanting mustard sauce for his supper meat had but to open his window and sing out to the vender. In the Eighteenth Century Paris wanted a piece of the action, mustard-wise and by 1812 there were 84 varieties of mustard available in Paris in competition with that of Dijon. In Dijon the mustard was grown in the beautiful honey-sweet fields of Burgundy, ground, then blended with verjuice, a vinegar extracted from green or unripe grapes . . . the same grapes that, when mature, were pressed into the great Burgundian wines! In contrast with this classic formula the Parisian market offered highly aromatic, somewhat souped up mustards flavored with mushrooms, anchovies, pickles, truffles, rose-water and vanilla. Alexander Dumas, asked to express his preference, told this story of an evening's stay in Dijon. "I asked for supper, and was served two chops in mustard and half a cold fowl. What mustard do you want?" the waiter asked. 'Why Dijon' mustard, of course.' said I. i know that.' said the waiter, looking as though he had discovered a complete idiot, 'but what I'm asking is whether you want men's mustard or ladies' mustard.' 'Oh.' said I, 'so there's a difference between mustard for men and mustard for women?" 'For ladies.' 'All right, for ladies.' 'Yes, sir. Since a lady's palate is more delicate than a man's, ordinary Dijon mustard is too strong and sharp for them. So, M. Bornibus has invented a special mustard.1 'And who is this Bornibus?' 'Why, he's the most fashionable mustardmaker. Everybody is talking about his mustard.' 'Now I remember. I know him by reputation, but I don't know his mustard. Give me some.' 'Which one?' Both.' Sir, you will eat ladies' mustard?' 'If I can eat the strong, I can eat the weak.' said I. So he brought me both kinds of mustard on my chops. At sight of the fine canary-yellow color. I plunged in the wooden spoon and made two pyramids, one of the man's mustard and one of the ladies', on my plate. I must say that from that moment I made a turnabout and developed an enthusiasm for Bornibus' mustard." In evaluating M. Dumas' choice, you should know that the above was written as a paid advertisement for the House of Alexandre Bornibus, Paris. How's that for dignified hustling! What could M. Dumas not have done with the subject of mustard and artichokes! Artichokes filled with or dipped into golden mixtures of mustard with butter, with delicate homemade mayonnaise, with Champagne! In the first place, it looks so pretty. . .with the fresh green of the artichokes and the pale and creamy gold of the mustard sauces. But our eminent Parisian would want sterner proof. Pretty! Bah. alors. How does it taste? Ravishing, that's how. Each ingredient is added to the next with such softness and careful balancing that everything is tasted in perfect chorus. ARTICHOKES WITH MUSTARD MAYONNAISE (Makes 6 servings) 1 cup mayonnaise ' cup Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons dry white wine 6 medium artichokes, prepared as directed below Parsley Blend mayonnaise, mustard and wine. Spoon sauce into the center of hot or chilled artichokes. Garnish with parsley. ARTICHOKES WITH CHAMPAGNE MUSTARD (Makes 8 servings) legg 3 tablespoons Champagne or dry white wine 1 teaspoon dry mustard 4 teaspoon salt Dash white pepper 4 cup salad oil 8 artichokes, prepared as directed below Combine egg, 1 tablespoon of the Champagne, mustard, salt, pepper and V cup of the oil in electric blender. Blend 5 seconds; then continue blending while gradually adding remaining oil. Stir in remaining Champagne. Serve with the artichokes, which may be hot or cold. ARTICHOKES WITH MUSTARD BUTTER (Makes 8 servings) pound butter, softened 14 teaspoons prepared mustard Dash paprika 8 medium artichokes, prepared as directed below Blend butter, mustard and paprika, about 2 hours before serving with the hot artichokes, so that the flavors mellow. BASIC DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING ARTICHOKES To prepare artichokes: . Wash artichokes. Cut off stems at base and remove small bottom leaves. If desired, trim tips of leaves and cut off about 1 inch from top of artichokes. Stand artichokes upright in deep saucepan large enough to hold snugly. . Add V teaspoon salt for each artichoke and 2 to 3 inches boiling water. Cover and boil gently 35 to 45 minutes or until base can be pierced easily with fork. (Add a little more boiling water if needed. ) Turn artichokes upside down to drain. If artichokes are to be stuffed, gently spread leaves and remove choke (thistle portion) from center of artichokes with metal spoon. did about everything else. If Aristophanes wasn't going to spare Socrates, was mustard sacred! Forhispart, Plautus detested mustard. And Horace was so busy abusing garlic he scarcely had time to start on mustard. Suffice it to say that what the founders of western civilization had was not pot mustard as we know it. It wasa glutinous mess that formed the base of such over-praised and over-priced sauces as Mu-ria and Garum, with which the old books are filled and that you don't really want to hear about. The recipes read like the witches' brew from Macbeth! However, that smart old bird. Pliny the Elder, had a brainstorm regarding mustard. Why not, he suggested in his elegant Latin, why not mix the mustard with vinegar and serve it just so as a condiment? And Palladius, writing in the Fourth Century A.D., in De Re Rustica, gives us something surprisingly close to modern mustard . . . "Reduce 12 pints of mustard to a powder. Add a pound of honey, a pound of Spanish oil. a pint of strong vinegar. Blend that, etcetera . . ." Through The Dark Ages and the Moyan Age mustard fell into disuse. Even Charlemagne the Magnificent was too much of a pompous clod to appreciate its simple virtues. But Dijon, in the heart of the breakaway Duchy of Burgundy, preserved that old recipe of Palladius and in the Thirteenth Century, St. Louis accorded to the vinegarmakers of Dijon the right to make mustard. The supremacy of the Dijonnaise product gave rise in the Fourteenth Century to this ditty . . . "There is not town if not Dijon . . . There is no mustard if not Dijon . . ." And through the streets of Paris on a warm evening you could hear the cry . . . "Fine good vinegar, Mustard Vinegar, Mustard Sauce . From "A Midsummer Night's Dream." by William Shakespeare: Bottom: Your name. I beseech you. sir? Elf: Mustardseed. Bottom: Good Master Mustardseed. I know your patience well. That same cowardly giant-like ox-beef hath devoured many a gentleman of your house. I promise you. your kindred hath made my eyes water ere now. I desire you more acquaintance, good Master Mustardseed. Come to that, who does not desire further acquaintance with Master Mustardseed? The Englishman could not eat his beef without it. Katherine in "The Taming of the Shrew" was even willing to eat the mustard without the beef! Mustard goes back further into pre history than we can actually see. Scholars differ is to a Mediterranean or Asi-itic origin. But we know that mustard has been cultivated for two thousand years or more and has spread throughout the temperate regions of the world ... its leaves providing food as mustard greens: its oils used for illumination, medicines and industry; its seeds for condiments. In the Hebrew of the Tal-mudic period mustard appears as "chartal." In Greek and Roman writing the world is the same . . . "sinapis" . . . and this root remains the botanical name today for white mustard in toto. Sinapis or Brassica Alba. Black mustard is Brassica Nigra and there is Brassica Juncea. a dark, brown plant called also Oriental Mustard. Of course we are charmed to come upon cosy references to our familiar mustard in the ancient books. Think of that! There's old Aristophanes and Manander and Plautus and Horace . . . just sitting there in the atrium and eating meat and mustard. Well, not precisely. Aristophanes and Manander in their comedies were merely disrespectful, making jokes about mustard as they PRICES GOOD THRU SUNDAY, NOV. 24 EDEEEEDSB 436 NOKTHWOOO RD. 1 20 N. ROSEMARY 4 POINTS MILITARY TRAIL I S ftLVD I wj tVfl U If wm DANDEE GOLDEN FRUIT CAKE REG. 2 Ring 51.39 a ax vaiue mm tit? LIBBY'S PUMPKIN Simplicity Inspired Use Of Chopsticks 17 oz. CAN JUPITER PIBTO WELCH'S friit pidch 0E ALL FLAVORS WHOLE SAUCE HPS DUNCAN HINES LAYER CAKE MIXES SAN FRANCISCO H'PIi -When you push aside chopsticks and reach for a knife and fork in a Chinese restaurant, you may seem a bit uncivilized to the Oriental eye. 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