The Palm Beach Post from West Palm Beach, Florida on November 14, 1968 · Page 49
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November 14, 1968

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The Palm Beach Post from West Palm Beach, Florida · Page 49

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West Palm Beach, Florida
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Thursday, November 14, 1968
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The Palm Beach ;1 FOOD SECTION Post and Times FAMILY NEWS RECIPES Till KSU AY, NOVEMBER 11. 18 Prepare Succulent Quail In The California Style "Oh the days gone by! Oh the days gone by! The apples in the orchard, and the pathway through the rye; The chirrup of the robin, and the whistle of the quail As he piped across the meadows sweet as any nightingale." From "Rhymes of Childhood." James Whltcomb Riley That whistling bird In our poem is, of course, the Bob-white, a common American quail. This bird advertises . . . with his cheery whistled call. But he is not the only quail in the world, no matter what he may tell you. Quail Is the best big black patch on his tummy. The gray and brown Mountain Quail has a straight standing plume like an Indian chief and side bars like latticed windows down his side. And the king of them all, the California Quail, is fat and stately and richly feathered with a deep sweep of tail and tall curving head plumes like a dowager at tea. To the despair of the California Chamber of Commerce, when California's very own quail talks it says "chl-ca-go," "chi-ca-go." Quail is known the world over and from very ancient times. In the Old Testament we read, "And there went known of our grassland game birds and species abound in every area of the United States and in parts of Canada. According to our fish and game authorities the most popular game birds nationwide are grouse, pheasant, partridge and quail. And in the West, quail leads all the rest. There is the Bobwhite with his downy creamy breast. There is the Scaled or Blue Quail of pale gray with a fuzzy cotton top. The Harlequin Quail Is a clown . . . with his feathers patched and spotted and his long-nosed mask like a Medieval mime. The Desert or Gambol's Quail has a funny forth a wind from the Lord, and brought quails from the sea." We have records of banquets in Egypt, Greece and Rome where the tiny birds in their thousands were roasted wrapped in fresh grape leaves. And from the gourmets of the Old World, we have much advice. Alexandre Dumas puts it that "This is the most darling and loveable of all game. A fat quail gives equal pleasure by its flavor, color and form. It is an act of culinary ignorance to prepare in any way except roasted In buttered paper." It is true that quail does well roasted in and served out of buttered paper, or butter paper or en papillote. Paper bag cookery preserves flavor and certainly makes use of those lovely strong sacks from the supermarket. But never think that this is the only acceptable method of cooking quail. M. Dumas' prejudices should not sidetrack us from such Belgian recipes as Casserole of Quail with Lettuce or Caille Sous La Cendre . . . made with wild chanterelles and cooked in a hot ash fire, clay pot or cooling bakers oven. Or a very old French recipe for quail served in small buttered cassolettes of fine porcelain or silver, half-filled with a mous- seline forcemeat made of quail and truffle essence, poached one minute then filled with a whole quail that has been cooked in butter and is now sprinkled with a nut-brown butter combined with a little pale melted glaze and pineapple juice. If this sounds too much like a Tiffany table setting, not meant for eating, there is a newer and more modest French method. Each bird Is wrapped in a buttered vine-leaf and thin slice of bacon for barding or larding, roasted in a quick oven 10 minutes, served en croute with half-lemons. Broiled quail makes many an English breakfast and jugged quail a jolly English supper. Quail has a special affinity for veal stock, quinces and raisins plumped In beer or wine. Quail may be baked, braised, broiled, casseroled, chafing-dished, charcoal broiled, panned, poached, roasted, sauteed, spitted, made Into risotto, salmis or plain stew. THE classic method for quail Is probably this: Roasted quickly in a hoi oven draped with bacon and basted constantly with butter: then served on freshly made toast, profusely buttered; with a tart conserve, traditionally currant; a slice of lemon; a cluster of crisp watercress; homemade Saratoga chips and Brussels sprouts. The English and continental recipes for Brussels sprouts as a game accompaniment are as strict and classical as the game methods themselves. You may have sprouts In a puree; a souffle; par boiled then cooked in a brown butter: poached In broth and white wine and dressed with sweet butter and nutmeg; or in that old chestnut, Brussels Sprouts and Chestnuts. All of these European methods for quail and sprouts are splendid. However, we are going to shake things up a bit and cook them California style. Our recipe for Oven Frieci Quail and Sprouts reflects the Californlan's fondness for frito mlsto . . . mixed fry. The Brussels sprouts and the birds are battered up and put into a hot oven just until they are crisp and golden, and they are served with more gold in the form of homemade game straws (found on the page of "Classic accompaniments foi Game Birds"). Panned Quail and Sprouts is influenced by the swift, clean, crisp cooking of the Japanese in California. The birds are sauteed until crisply browned. The sprouts and other vegetables are thinly sliced in the Oriental way and sauteed with a sesame seed butter. OVEN FRIED QUAIL AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS, CALIFORNIA STYLE (Makes 6 servings) 12 quail or six partridge l-'j eupssaulerne 4 eggs 4 cup milk 1 - ' cups fine dry bread crumbs 2 tablespoons salt 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper 2 tablespoons chervil 2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen California Brussels sprouts, thawed and halved 2- 3 cup butter or margarine Tie legs of quail together; marinate in sauterne overnight. Drain and dry thorough ly. Combine eggs and milk. Dip quail in this mixture and then in bread crumbs thai have been mixed with the salt, pepper and chervil. Repeal the same process for the sprouts. Saute quail until golden brown on all sides; repca; with the sprouts. Arrange quail and sprouts in large shallow baking dish or roasting pan. Cover and bake in 400 degree ( hot ) oven 20 minutes, until quail are tender. PANNED QUAIL AND SPROUTS, CALIFORNIA STYLE (Makes 6 servings) 12 quail or six partridge 1-4 cups dry white wine 1-', cups butter 2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen California Brussels sprouts, thawed 6 tablespoons sesame seed 2 sweet onions, thinly sliced 4 cups thinly sliced mushrooms 3 cups diagonally sliced celery 2 teaspoons niunosodiiim glu-tamate 1- '4 tablespoons lemon juice To prepare quail: Tie legs of quail together and fasten wings behind backs. Marinate in the wine overnight. Drain and dry throroughly. Saute i:i '.2 cup of the bulter 2r) to .It) minutes until crisply browned. Place on serving platter and pour pan drippings over. To prepare vegetables: Cook Brussels sprouts in boiling water 5 minutes. Drain and cool slightly, then slice thinly. Melt '2 cup of the butter In large skillet. Saute 4 tablespoon of the sesame seed until lightly browned. Place vegetables in skillet, sprinkle monosoclium gluta-mate and 1 tablespoon of tin lemon juice over them; saute 5 to 7 minutes, turning constantly to coat with butter ami sesame. Melt remaining butter, adding the rest of the sesame seed .ind lemon juice. Arrange vegetables on platter with the quail and serve the additional sesame seed butter with all. n- , rn, T.niiiiniiitir- tto- . - - - - &i Game Bird Cooking Tips f r "1 ' - soned marinade will ruin these delicate birds. However, you may add a bay leaf, a bit of lemon juice or a few juniper berries, if you feel so inclined, without Interfering with the natural flavor or with the recipe itself. This simple precaution of marinating will spare you much disappointment and, although it Is not usually necessary with farm raised birds, it certainly cannot do harm. You may place frozen birds In the marinade and do your thawing and tenderizing simultaneously so long as you do not Intend to re-use the drained marinade as a basting sauce. The thawing action will dilute the marinade and spoil it for further use. Larding . . . proof against leanness: Having led the sportsman a merry chase through field, marsh and meadow, wild game birds tend to be muscular, with pure lean meat. Hence, larding before cooking Is essential with game taken in the field. With farm raised birds that are bred to fat rather than muscle, larding is not usually required. Nor is it required with a wild game bird that has been hung to full ripeness. With game birds the larding is laid on, rather than through with a larding needle, so as to keep the fragile birds as Intact as possible. You may employ for this purpose bacon In any form, salt pork, suet, fat back, chicken fat or goose grease . . . laid across the breast and legs in strips or pieces. Or butter, lard or shortening can be dotted on or melted and brushed on, as can olive or any cooking oil. Basting... proof against dryness: Basting Is actually an extension of larding, as you continue to add fat and moisture while cooking. You may baste with the drained marinade, with a simple butter sauce or as specified in your recipe. The basting liquid, together with the cooking Juices, can form the base for a finished sauce or gravy. In this case, take care with the larding material. It will add Its flavor to the final dish. COOKING Specific directions and cooking times are given In the recipes; but these basic principles apply to all game bird cookery. Small game such as game birds should be prepared with a minimum of fuss, If you wish to encourage the natural flavor to emerge. Quick, simple cooking with great restraint in seasoning Is the rule. Dry Heat Methods: Young birds. . .those taken In the same year bred, .may be cooked by dry heat. They may be broiled, oven or pan fried, baked-oven roasted or spit roasted. Spit roasting Is Ideal for game birds, as It keeps them plump and juicy while cooking and browns them Under the term game birds are Included all edible land and shore birds and waterfowl that exist in a wild state. The armchair hunter can duplicate many popular game birds in a domestic state . . . farm raised and available at local markets fresh, canned or quick-frozen. You will note when shopping for game birds that the term domestic is used in reference both to farm raised birds as opposed to wild and to all native American game birds as opposed to imported. PREPARATION In the Instructions that follow It is assumed that the fresh kill will have been dressed out correctly according to the best procedures. The experienced hunter will know these, of course, and a number of federal and local agencies are prepared to be helpful on the subject (see sources below). In dressing wild birds, the blood may be collected for use In sauces and gravies and, If you wish, your game purveyor will often supply blood in a special container. Once home, the birds may be aged (hung) before they are cooked or carefully frozen for later use. This may be done at home or there are excellent commercial facilities (locker plants and local meat markets) that will age, freeze and store your game birds. A note on freezing: Thaw birds in the refrigerator rather than at room temperature. After thawing cook at once. Do not re-freeze. A note on hanging: Game birds can be hung or prepared fresh according to preference. The high bird will be much more tender and more strongly flavored; for the longer hung, the gamier. Recommended hanging times will be found in the source material listed below. A note on the innards: Really old cookbooks call for serving the trails and lights of small game. The modern method is to discard these, except In the preparation of woodcock. All birds given here are to be plucked, drawn and singed. The discarded livers and hearts may be saved for stocks and pates, the giblets for stock and gravy. Do not wash the cavities with water; but rather wipe out with a cloth wrung out In hot water. Once this preparation Is behind you, you can cook game birds as casually as you do chicken or other barnyard fowl, cautioned thusly: Beware toughness, leanness and dryness. Marinating . . . proof against toughness: You can insure tenderness In wild game birds by marinating for several hours or overnight in a small amount of light dry wine. Use from one-fourth to one cup per bird depending upon size. This will not affect the flavor. It Is not meant to. A strongly sea quickly and evenly. Moist Heat Methods: Older birds are excellent for potting, stewing, jugging or any method that involves cooking In liquid. This is, In a sense, perpetual basting and can result in a surprisingly succulent and savory bird. Older birds can also make rich stock for soups and sauces and splendid hash and forcemeat. The gist Is: fast cooking for the young, slow cooking for the old. A note on cooking farm raised game birds: The above Instructions are given primarily for wild game birds. With some modifications. . .principally marinating, larding and basting. . .the cooking procedures remain the same for farm raised birds. You will find the wild birds lean and muscular with a definite ga-mey flavor. The domestic bird of the same species will be plump and mild, with much more tender flesh. A note on trussing: This is advisable for most game birds. Small though they are, they make a much more tidy appearance when their little legs are neatly tied before cooking. Use trussing cord or employ ordinary heavy-duty button thread. Cut the ihread just before serving. Ducks are the exception to trussing, as their legs are just too short to matter. If the birds are very tough and the flesh tastes somewhat bitter, It is best to discard the legs altogether before serving. A note on stuffing: Any game bird can be stuffed with the allowance of a few more minutes to the total cooking time. Birds should be stuffed just prior to cooking, and the cavity closed with trussing thread and needle or trussing pins. A note on doneness: No time table is given here on game bird cooking, as specific times are given for each recipe. However, this simple test for doneness may be helpful: Just graps the bone end of the leg and jiggle gently. The joint should move without effort and the thick part of the drum-itlck should yield when pressed. Paper It NEW YORX (UPI) - Consumer mall received by a leading paper goods manufacturer shows housewives have found some unusual uses for paper towels. In the kitchen, they've used towels as substitute coffee filters, for rolling up cake rolls and bouquet garni bags. They have also substituted towels for pressing cloths in Ironing clothes, for diaper liners and baby bed pads and lining the Inside of men's hat bands, the Scott Paper Co. said. si ? .. . Welkin NEW FROM KRAFT-Teez Dip made with fresh sour cream in four zingy flavors. FRENCH "'0 luunnitFRimsu i ' VI "Hip

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