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MOUSSAKA 4 medium eggplants (about 1 lb. each) Salt 2 lbs. lean beef, ground 3 medium onions, chopped Vj cup butter or margarine, divided Vj cup dry red wine 2 teaspoons salt 'A teaspoon coarse black pepper 1 teaspoon oregano 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese, divided Vj cup soft bread crumbs, divided Vegetable oil 2 cans (1 lb. 1 oz. each) plum tomatoes, drained 6 tablespoons flour 3 cups milk Salt and pepper Dash nutmeg 4 egg yolks, lightly beaten GREEK PARTY DISH 6Y BETH MERRIMAN PARADE FOOD EDITOR Planning a very special buffet for a crowd? Moussaka, a traditional Greek meal-in-a-dish, made with eggplants, meat and cheese, takes time, but makes a perfect casserole. Greek women spend a whole day preparing this dish, but in our American version there are short cuts. You can slice, press and fry the eggplant, grate the cheese and make bread crumbs the day before. Or, if you wish, prepare the entire casserole, except for the topping, and store in refrigerator. If you do this, allow extra time in oven. Round out the meal with a tossed green salad, Greek or French bread, a light dessert and lots of espresso or strong black coffee. FROM PARADE'S TEST KITCHEN PHOTO BY WALTER STRELNICK Peel eggplant, cut crosswise in 'A-inch slices. Sprinkle lightly with salt; arrange in stacks; place heavy plate on top, let stand to drain. Cook beef and onions in 2 tablespoons butter until beef is browned. Add wine, 2 teaspoons salt, 'A teaspoon pepper and oregano. Simmer until liquid is absorbed. Stir in 2 beaten eggs, 3A cup grated cheese and 'A cup bread crumbs. Brown eggplant slices quickly on both sides in vegetable oil. Crease large casserole or baking dish (3'A-to 4-quart). Sprinkle bottom of casserole with remaining crumbs. Fill with alternate layers of eggplant, meat mixture and tomatoes, ending with eggplant, leaving 1-inch head space. Melt remaining butter; blend in flour; add milk slowly, stirring constantly. Season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Pour a little hot milk mixture on egg yolks, return to remaining hot milk mixture. Cook about 2 minutes over low heat, stirring constantly until thickened. Pour sauce into casserole. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Bake at 350 for 45 to 60 minutes or until top is golden brown and eggplant is tender. Makes 10 to 12 servings.