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ISLANDS St. Barthelemy Secluded, sophisticated St. Baits boasts 60 restaurants (none of them fast-food) and lures famous folk to its sidewalks and beaches. 'PVTrv v.; iUtJ- if.Vi :' --vw. v - J- " T."!.. Photos by Cheryl Blackerby CELEBRITY PLAYGROUND: Only very small cruise ships can dock in Gustavia's quaint harbor, which helps keep St. Barts a rich person's hideaway He Fourchue lie Fregate m. n : j pi i , DdlC UK 91. JBdll Gustavia 4 'Hi. II. N By Cheryl Blackerby GUSTAVIA, St. Barthelemy This 8-square-mile French playground has several rules for visitors: Don't come unless you're skinny and gorgeous. Or famous. Bring money. Iols. French francs, U.S. dollars and credit cards accepted. Dave Ixlterman lianas out here and can be seen joking around the island. Actress Elizabeth Ashley lives here. Jimmy Buffctt makes an occasional appearance. Keep your eyes peeled for other celebs. Hut even if you're not famous, or skinny, or even rich, you'll probably have fun. If you can't afford to buy the latest designer fashions, you can still browse the ultra chic shops Hermes, Gucci, Stephane & Bernard and more. Even the T-shirts are fashionable sexy little black cropped shirts with "St. Harts" in tasteful small print. St. Barthelemy, which Christopher Columbus named after his brother, is most often referred to as St. Harts. The harbor is a lovely cove with red-roofed cottages built on steep hillsides. Only yachts and very small cruise ships are able to dock here which helps eliminate the masses who wouldn't know Gucci from The Gap. Walking is an easy way to get around if you're energetic. Or you can pretend you're a resident and rent a "mini-moke," a rugged little convertible, bike or motorbike. Most people here, especially those working in shops, speak En- Page 4 glish, but (his is a good time lo practice your college French. And you should review your food vocal)ulary. The island has more than (0 restaurants oik for Beach town with a French twist At Baie de St. Jean, learn to wind-surf, dive or snorkel or sit in one of the cafes, drink a glass of French wine and watch the parade of gorgeous, skinny Europeans in tiny monokinis (no tops). Nudity is against the law, but the only women wearing tops are usually the few Americans. (The guys in baggy trunks are definitely from the U.S.) Beach-side bungalows: The Hotel Filao Beach (800-755-9313), a collection of 30 rooms in bungalows overlooking Baie tie St. Jean, is a good bet. Kates start at around $200, a bargain on this ultra-expensive island. Information: French Government Tourist Office, (212) 838-7800. every 1 10 residents and the menus are in Francais. St. Harts is for people who love nature, and that doesn't mean admiring the beautiful people. No casinos, movie theaters or American fast-food restaurants detract from the scenery. So you have to resort to swimming, wind-surfing, horseback riding, hiking the green mountains and meeting Frenchmen who are a lot friendlier than their fellow citizens in the homeland. Must be all that lovely sun.