Poughkeepsie Journal from Poughkeepsie, New York • Page 52

14E ENJOY FRIDAY JUNE 24, 201 1 POUGHKEEPSIE JOURNAL Restaurant Ratings poor fair good very good excellent iningQiit Bacco in Poughkeepsie comes up big in food, service The Poughkeepsie Journal pays for meals that are the subjects of reviews; reviewers do not identify themselves prior to the end of the meal. Theresa J. Marquez, Web producer for the Journal, graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 2005. She has worked for Cooking Light magazine and is a local personal chef. Bacco is an all-Italian one, it was disappointing the by-the-glass availability of selections was limited.

We were spoiled by the house-made dessert selections. Also heart-warming was the gracious service. All facets of this lovely new restaurant are bountiful reasons to return. cooked in a Pernod-based broth topped the gnocchi. Misto di Carne alia Grillia ($24) provided a combination of fresh sausage flecked with fennel seed, medium rare fingers of steak and thin cutlets of herbed chicken, accompanied by a medley of roasted vegetables.

Although the wine list at The grilled octopus was reminiscent of many meals I enjoyed on the southwest coast of Sicily. Large tendrils were lightly grilled, just enough to add a smoky flavor, but not long enough to toughen. These were plated over a timbale of sorts of roasted potatoes, red bell peppers and onions that were flecked with roasted herbs, which augmented the flavor of the entire dish. A drizzle of reduced balsamic vinegar added a pleasant piquancy to the rich dish. As an Insalate (salad) we plowed through the Pan-zanella a Modo Mio Typically I avoid panzanella because I don't find the texture of soggy bread appealing.

I RIVER STATION 1HIKI BACCO RISTORANTE ITALIANO (Very good) 718 Dutchess Turnpike (Route 44), Poughkeepsie; 845-454-1882; classic Italian cuisine. Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, lunch, 1 1:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner, 6-1 1 p.m.; Sunday, 3-8 p.m.; closed Monday. Reservations recommended, especially for larger parties on weekends; Visa, MasterCard accepted; vegetarian entrees on menu; no catering; handicapped accessible. Price range: Dinner menu, 1 no children's menu.

Directions: In Poughkeepsie, drive east on Route 44 about 4 miles. Turn right at the lighted intersection just before Adams Fairacre Farms. Bacco is in the shopping center to the right of Arlington Wine Liquor. RATINGS BREAKDOWN Food 12 Ambience Service Value ponent, attention to freshness is paramount. Unfortunately, we had to pick around yellowing leaves of arugula.

By Theresa J. Marquez Poughkeepsie Journal If authentic cuisine from "the old country" is your desire, head to Bacco Ris-torante Italiano in Poughkeepsie. First impressions are this is an upscale, fine-dining establishment. While there were tablecloths on every table and service verged on upscale, Bacco is more about fine food than uppity ambiance. The intimate dining room offered a combination of tables, bar or booth seating.

Antipasti, or appetizers, included the familiar fried calamari and mozzarella, and grilled pepper combinations. Beyond the expected dishes, though, are items such as Polipo Croccante con Patate (grilled octopus) and Parmi-giano Reggiano Flan. We started with the polipo ($14) and the Carpaccio di Manzo The carpaccio was a classic presentation of lightly seared beef tenderloin, sliced paper thin. Atop the tender slivers was a mound of arugula lightly dressed with fresh lemon. The plate was garnished with a generous portion of Parmigiano Reggiano shavings.

On a plate where a fresh green is a major com- 5 Wednesday NY Beer Night $4 Quesadilla $6 Thursday Bud and Bud Lt. $2 $1.50 Slider Friday Sam Adams Party $4 .35 Wings Saturday Margarona Night $3.50 Corona Margaritas was assured the "a modo mio" would make us happy, and they were right. Diced cucumbers, little cherry tomato wedges, paper-thin whispers of red onion and a tangy vinaigrette were combined then plated between wedges of thin crunchy toast. It was a cross between panzanella and bruschetta, and it was fabulous. For gnocchi lovers, be sure to try the Gnocchetto fatto in Casa di Ceci Patate di Cozze Fluffy little pillows of gnocchi were dressed with a tomato-based sauce.

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