Arizona Republic from Phoenix, Arizona • Page 201

PHOENIX LIVING 3 THE PHOENIX REPUBLIC WEEKEND EDITION, AUGUST 9, 2008 DINING REVIEW El Farol provides tasty dishes, bargain prices The short menu features one soup, one sandwich, three appetizers and three entrees, plus a handful of daily specials and typical Peruvian beverages. strawberry soda) and Inka Cola (the country's most popular soft drink) are also available, But unless you're a teetotaler, head straight for the Pisco Sour. If Peru's preeminent alcoholic beverage, a frothy mix of grape brandy, lime juice, sugar and egg white, topped with a dash of bitters Clean tasting and sour, ifs faintly reminiscent of a margarita, but maybe better. Sweet and sour aren't the only flavor components you'll find in a Peruvian meal. Papa a la huancayna (a favorite lunch dish offered as an appetizer here) is pleasantly spicy.

Imagine thick slices of boiled potato, draped in a velvety queso fresco sauce whose yummy skin, flavored with a paste of achiote, cumin and aji. Priced at $4.50, the quarter chicken with rice make a perfect kids meal. Menudo fans will love the cau-cau, a beef tripe and potato stew flavored with parsley, mint and cilantro Subtly seasoned and served with rice, the tripe practically melts in my mouth. The single dish that doesn't do it for me is chupe de camarones, a bland, rice-thickened shrimp soup that needs more salt and spice And while I'm complaining, I should mention that certain dishes never seem to be available. Given the length of the menu, thaf a bummer.

There's only one dessert, but ifs lovely: a generous helping of yellowish-orange ice cream made with lu-cuma, a tropical fruit with a faintly floral flavor If you're remotely adventurous and you love a bargain, you'll surely like El Farol as much as I do. Just don't call first. JILL RICHARDSTHE REPUBLIC Walter Milicich serves Peruvian cuisine at his El Farol restaurant. fish dish with onions and tomatoes Meanwhile, polio a la brasa is surely the best rotisserie chicken in town ultra-moist meat and Give yourself a Great Smile! We'll give you the personal attention you deserve with no hidden cost! El Farol Peruvian Restaurant 5534 E. Thomas Road, Phoenix.

602-595-1842 By Nikki Buchanan Special for The Republic If amazing how much of the protocol we weave into our daily interactions is culturally based. I have certain expectations about restaurant etiquette (the restaurant's, not mine), and I was reminded of them when I called El Farol Peruvian Restaurant to inquire about its hours of operation. The guy who answered the phone said, "Hello" (not "El in a voice that suggested I was causing him pain. "Which days of the week are you open?" I asked, to which he replied, "Who is this?" "Ummmm, a customer?" I responded, feeling as if I'd done something wrong. "What your name?" my interrogator next wanted to know, at which point I was ready to give up.

Why would I want to dine in a restaurant that promised to be as pleasant as the Spanish Inquisition? However, when I worked up the courage to visit El Farol, I was pleasantly surprised shocked, actually to learn that Walter and Gino Milic-ich (brothers and partners in this operation) are as sweet and eager to please as they can possibly be. I don't know what that phone business was all about probably just a cultural disconnect but El Farol and its owners are so completely charming I look forward to going back. About six months ago, the Milicich brothers took over the space formerly occupied by Sushi Mishima, redecorating with faux brick walls, mirrors, new tables and chairs and gleaming cream-colored tiles laid atop the diner-like counter. Now the place looks like the tidy, comfortable neighborhood restaurant if destined to be. The short menu features one soup, one sandwich, three appetizers and three entrees, plus a handful of daily specials and typical Peruvian beverages.

After politely introducing himself, Walter suggests that my friend and I begin with a cold pitcher of chi-cha morada a fruity drink made from boiled purple corn cobs and pineapple Scented with cloves and cinnamon, it's the summery counterpart to mulled cider, rich and sweet. Bright red Kola Inglesa (think i I 10 OFF ALL CROWN BRIDGE FREE INITIAL DENTURE CONSULTATION ExtractionsRoot Canals Crowns Bridges Precision Fit Dentures Denture Relines Repairs while you wait Call Now Interest Free Financing Available pale yellow color comes from aji ama-rillo, the medium-hot chile favored in Peru. Adorned with kalamata olives and slices of hard-cooked egg, it's comfort food with a kick Peru is famous for its ceviches, and El Farol's simple version proves why. Strips of tilapia, "cooked" in fresh lime juice with garlic, onion, parsley and cilantro, come garnished with sliced red onion The flavor of the fish is exquisitely tart, its texture silky. Sweet potato slices, and chunks of corn on the cob provide traditional garnish.

Anticuchos (skewers of marinated beef heart) aren't found on the menu, but they're usually available. Painted with a reddish sauce made of soy, chiles, garlic and red-wine vinegar, the smooth-textured, still-pink meat is fabulous Super-spicy salsa criolla (pale green cilantro sauce) and browned potato slices make this simple, satisfying dish one of my favorites. Entrees are every bit as strong. Saltado hunks of flavorful top sirloin, stir-fried with red onion and tomato is so much more than the sum of its parts. The juices of the meat and tomatoes commingle seeping into fluffy basmati rice and planks of deep brown, homemade french fries Don't miss it Lemony sudado de pescado is remarkably similar, a light, steamed 10 OFF Complete Set of Dentures With This Ad Cannot be combined with any other discounts.

Exp 82008 Lj DtnTfiLWOSlD OfMOOTM SENIOR HSCOUNTS, 6605 N. 19th Ave Ste Phoenix, AZ 8-5 pm Friday Located on 19th Ave. Just S. of Glendale.