Arizona Republic from Phoenix, Arizona • Page 35

Wednndiiy. July 28. 1999 The Arlon Republic PS Navajo designers gaining share of fashion market Technology brought fashion evolution MVAJO, fivm Dl about her vests because they blend well with ceremonial garments. LaRusso and Yazzie-Ballenger said they don't mind selling traditional outfits to non-Indians. "To me, it's like an expression of appreciating Native American culture and the arts and their way of lire," she said.

"If you have a non-Indian running around dressed like a medicine man and claiming to be a shaman, that would bother me. But there is a difference." Unique, pretty clothes should be worn, admired and enjoyed by everyone, Yazzie-Ballenger believes. If time permits, the three women travel to festivals with their goods and pick up customers. The Heard Museum Fair, the Pueblo Grande Indian Market or the Santa Fe Indian Market are excellent outlets. Shurley-Olivas said her mother inspired her by giving her fabric and a needle when they lived in Winslow in the 1980s.

"My mother told me, 'Your needle and thread is highly prized, and you don't lose it, she said. She financed a part of her art education at Grand Canyon College and the University of Arizbr.a by sewing and selling her clothes. She now limits the number of orders she receives. Fashion design remains a part- time job for her; she is also busy raising a young child. As her daughter grows, Shurley-Olivas is flirting with the idea of starting a children's clothing line.

LaRusso, who grew up in Flagstaff and in Navajoland, east of Tuba City near Sandsprings, said she knew fashion was in her blood since she a little girl. She'd slip into a convenience store and peek at Archie and Vcmnica comic books or magazines to admire clothes. At home, she watched and heard as her mother ripped fabric to make clothes. It was common for her mother to find a favorite shirt, yank 1 1 of ripping fabric into six square-shaped pieces for the arms and bodice. These pieces were stitched together, creating a pintucked effect, said Virginia Yazzie-Ballenger, owner of American Indian Fashions by Virginia.

Today, elderly women sew and wear simple shirts without pleats, but they continue to wear tiered skirts. Army photos taken before sewing machines became common show Navajo women wearing fine woven rugs, called bill. National Indian museums display an earlier Navajo look for women, Yazzie-Ballenger said. That outfit was a simple leather dress. Betty Reid can be reached at 444-8885 or at betty.reidpni.com via e-mail.

Check in and you'll find everything you want for the perfect vacation getaway. Only $89 per night including breakfast. Call today 1-877-784-1751 per night including brrakfuL' 60 E. 5TH STREET TEMPE, AZ 8528 1 WWW.MISSIONPALMS.COM Includes complimentary breakfast for two. Offer expires September 30, 1999.

Based on avaAaMny 1u not relucted Not (jpfccaUe Id groups SuGiecl to cftafqf wftfiout notct. At See Level. i $QQ Oj mission! By Betty Reld The Arizona Republic Some historians say Navajo women adopted cotton calico skirts and shirts from frontier women more than a century ago and added their own flair. Federal schools introduced foot-pedaled sewing machines to Navajos in the late 1800s and early 1900s. They and other new tools, such as scissors and irons, helped shape the garments.

The advances allowed women to add more pleats to shirts and skirts. The decorations became practical as well, as the Navajo people traveled on horseback before automobiles were available. The women later upgraded the fabric to pretty satins and velveteens. The raised detail in Navajo clothing evolved as a result Relax Have Breakfast Every Room Is Starting at $159 per room, per night. Good thru 916199.

Seaport Village and the exciting Iach room the bay or Pacific on the West Coast enjoy an uncompromised night the seams out and reduce it to pieces, and that became a pattern, LaRusso recalled. Then her mother would drag out the wheel-operated Singer stored beneath layers of trunks in a hogan and sew. The designer, who also is a mother, attended Valley colleges and Arizona State University and now lives in Flagstaff. This summer, she received an order to sew several unique cowboy shirts for beauty contestants in the Pine Country Rodeo. Deerwater Designs has been open since 1994.

LaRusso 's goal is to expand into the retail stores so individuals will never ask, "Who is Aresta LaRusso?" she said. I ler line received attention in Women's Wear Daily ami other national magazines. Navajo Spirit, which started in a basement in Gallup, celebrated its 14th birthday recently. It began as a sewing hobby. "My older sister is talented and I'd see her house decorated with her hand work," she said.

"I said, I'm going to make stuff with my hands, too." Previously a secretary for the Santa Fe railroad, Yazzie-Ballenger started by sewing pieces for associates. Her clothes snared first prize in an arts and crafts contest at the Window Rock Fair. Many of her pieces later were offered in the Smithsonian catalog. Television's Home Shopping Network and the catalog have placed wholesale orders from Navajo Spirit. Hard work and some excitement come with a Navajo designer's career.

In the upcoming holiday issue of Cowboys Indians, Native actress Irene Bedard (Smoke Signals) will wear a red velvet Nayajo Spirit outfit with conchos down the sleeve. Designing Indian clothes has been good to her, Yazzie-Ballenger said. "I want to stay more focused on Indian clothing," she said, "but one day, I would like to go to Paris and see the boutiques." Betty Reid can be reached at 444-8885 or at betty.reidpni.com via e-mail. tists call "impacted." Impacted molars can continue to cause trouble if they're not surgically removed. To call themselves orthodontists, dentists must graduate from an accredited academic program.

Certification by the American Board of Orthodontics is not required. To become board-certified, orthodontists must pass a two-part written exam and present 10 completed patient cases before a group of peers. The process can take as long as a decade to complete. About 1,895 orthodontists are board-certified in the specialty, according to the American Board of Orthodontists roughly 25 percent of the number who belong to the American Association of Orthodontists. Orthodontics practices gross between $227,000 and $579,000 annually, with about half going for office overhead and the rest as profits.

For more information about orthodontists, contact the American Board of Orthodontics, 401 N. Lindbergh Suite 308, St. Louis, MO 63 14 1 or at www.americanboar-dortho.com on the Internet. The board will confirm whether an orthodontist is certified in the specialty. For an orthodontist in your area, call the American Association of Orthodontists at 1-800-787-2444 or visit www.braces.org.

Will PowersThe Arizona Republic Traditional Navajo women favor full pleated dresses. Silver detailing makes the garments dressier. Cure for cold feet isn't always painful Orthodontia is more than simple aesthetics features spectacular views of from the tallest building waterfront. Come and location next to Quarter. Or visit the Zoo and Sea World just minutet away with tickets available at our concierge desk.

Tennis, pool, spa, health and fitness center, salon and even boat and Jetski' watercraft rentals ter announcements have been sent. Yet Reilley says that with all the embarrassment of sending out cancellation cards, he's glad he didn't have to go through a divorce. Another cause of fleet-footed brides and bridegrooms, according to Helgeson, is a simple case of disillusionment. "Sometimes they wake up and they realize, 'I'm not in love with this person, I'm more in love with the idea of being in Helgeson says. That could have been one of the causes in the case of Nicole Contos, a New York woman who made the talk-show rounds in 1997 after being dumped by her fiance, literally at the altar (a groomsman delivered the message), and continuing with her $65,000 reception sans groom.

(And at that cost, who wouldn't?) According to the Associated Press, she "even danced to the anthem of the jilted, Will Survive" The exact reason for their breakup hasn't been revealed, but rumor has it that her groom is set to write a tell-all book. Whatever the situation or pre-wedding shivers, psychologists say couples should communicate their hesitations to each other announcements, expensive rentals and painful breakups notwithstanding. They're much more painful when marriage contracts are involved. And, Helgeson advises, couples who are having doubts should see a counselor to avoid last-minute lamentations. "They need to clarify for themselves that it is not just cold feet and the little anxieties that everyone he says.

Like tripping when you finally walk down the gangplank, er, aisle. Jaimee Rose can be reached at (602) 444-2243 or at Jaimee.Rosepni.com via e-mail. are available to make For reservations, call (619)232-1234 or 1-800-233-1234. 'Based upon availability, not applicable to groups, tax not included. Not valid with any other offer.

La life of the Gaslamp your adventure unforgettable. BAY Touch" San Diego, CA 92101 hyatt.com ON SAN Feel the Hyatt Hyatt Regency San Diego One Market DIEGO Place Smile if you want healthy teeth, gums By Suzanne Boynton New York Times Braces have become almost a rite of passage in the United States. The number of youngsters with braces has quadrupled since the 1960s, and it's up from 3.5 million in 1989 to more than 4.5 million now. Greater awareness of the benefits of orthodontia, easy-credit financing and more dentists practicing orthodontia account for the increase, say the experts. About 80 percent of the orthodontia patients are juveniles, 20 percent are 1 8 and older, and the majority are female.

Orthodontics treatment averages about $4,000 per patient. It's not covered by many dental plans, but financing plans are widely available. The "perfect smile" is often mentioned as the goal of orthodontia, and it usually does improve appearance. But there are even more vital reasons to straighten teeth: crooked teeth are harder to clean, wear unevenly, and cause stress on the jaw and gum tissues. These can add up to more severe, more expensive problems later.

The need for treatment is increasing, orthodontists say. "About 50 percent of the people could use it; 25 percent need it, says Dr. Donald Guest, who has practices in Santa Rosa and Petal u-ma, Calif. Fossil records show a steady decline in jaw size during the past 1,000 years. The number and size of teeth also have diminished, but not as fast as jaw size.

For the past 100 years or so, few people have had room for their wisdom teeth, or 17-year molars. These teeth are often turned sideways, so they cannot come in correctly, a condition den I i HOKE FEATURES: Al Prmer Opnom Digital Dual Ornate Control. Remote EntryEll with Alarm, From Rear Fog Lamps. Alloy Wheels, 320 Watt 12 Speaker Harman Kardon Audio System. 4 yrSOK Warranty 4 tear Roadside Service.

Sanies Loaner Cars. 5Q0W ADDITIONAL 7 PASSENGER FEATURES: Forward Facing Rear Sears, 3 Point Safety Bets, Head Rests For AM 7 Seats as so pis Ik 42 we. item Dow Papem NoSeartrDtpal 12654 at lot Oua wgrmo. me CURE, from Page Dl sive. It's hard for me to go on dates.

"I don't want to invest my time in someone that I'm not really in-' terested But there's always hope. Even today, after the year of pain, after the money lost, if Swan-son were willing, "I'd drop what I'm doing and marry her," Reilley says. Swanson declined to elaborate. She said that time in her life is still a little too fresh in her mind and that she completely trusts Reilley's version of the story. "It was a difficult time for both of us but a decision I'm glad I made," she said.

Psychologist Helgeson says some people have a serious, deep-seated fear of life-binding contracts that manifests itself as wedding preparations are made. "I think (fear) happens to people who really aren't focusing on what they're going to get out of the relationship," says Helgeson, who has treated a number of runaway bridegrooms but no brides. "Their minds start to run wild with what they're going to be giving up instead of thinking about all the great things that it could lead to." And today's high divorce rate and nasty court battles add to this fear, he says. Because Arizona is a no-fault state, bank accounts and assets usually are cut right down the middle in a split. "They're afraid of financial ruin," Helgeson says.

There's also the financial ruin of canceling a paid-for wedding: Caterers and florists aren't often keen on last-minute order sacking. Sometimes, psychologists say, people can get caught up in the momentum of a wedding, scared silent by the sheer mass of expenses and the sheer humiliation of backing out af STANDARD FEATURES: Pause Leath Seats. 4 0LterViEngin. Permanent 4-Wrwei Dme. 4-CKamal AH-Ttmnn ABS.

Patented HILL DESCENT CONTROL. 4-Wheel Traction Control, Steel Inner Body Cage, Second Generation Dual Air Bagt. LAUD ROVER c4bo) 990-7900 6925 E. McDowell Rd. Otto ixpim Xlf SI, 199S wiik stplm tat Need Surgery? Wormed About Blood Transfusion? We can help St.

Luke's Medical Center has offered the Phoenix area's only Transfusion-Free Medicine and Surgery Program since 1995. Compact Snort Utility" For more information Call or to attend a free one-hour Informational Meeting (602) 251-8333 or 888-737-8573 ff ai I 1 ft--1 LiMB II Medicine and Surgery Program LAND 1999 Land Rover Discovery Series II 1 II (602) 251 8333 St. Luke's Medical Center 1800 E.Van Buren, Phoenix.