The Sydney Morning Herald from Sydney, New South Wales, Australia • Page 79

1YOUR GUIDE TO TED MOLONEY, cookbook author reports from London mwarn ROBERT CARRIER lives in a Regency in a quiet square about 10 minutes walk from his restaurant in Camden passage. mama ft Neville Baker has just been welcomed officially by fellow members of the Wine and Food Society, as their president. By. JOHNNIE WALKER restaurateur-gourmet mm luncheons andspecial occasions like this." 'Rudy, as cellarmaster, buit up the wine stocks until I'm sure we have one of the finest collections in the country. The winemaster who chose for us on this occasion is Ossie Pitts and our cheesemaster Is Walter Schumacher.

The -whole menu was a fine piece of I was talking with Frank Christie, of Travelodge, and he echoed my praises for the complete evening. is not easy to find a meal, even among the experts, that has beeh so perfectly balanced with the wines. We started the meal with fresh mushroom consomme, followed by Quennelles of Whiting, then braised Guinea fowl as the main course. After a superb Stilton we had strawberries in Champagne, coffee and port. I will give you the recipe for the Quennelles, which, often seem much more complicated than they need and are delicious' with a variety of sauces.

QUENNELLES OF WHIT-ING Make a panada (or base) by placing Hoz flour, 2 egg yolks, li oz melted butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste, in a saucepan. Pour in i pint of boiling milk, and stirring constantly cook it over low-heat until it dries put. Spread the mixture on a plate and butter the top. Mince Jib of raw whit- Yesterday morning I called on him there to col lect some of his newest reci pes for Good Living. These are to appear in a series of- six Mini-menu Books" to be published by fan books next JNovember.

The recipes were still being typed at the Carrier Test Kitchen. The time was 11.30, the morning sunny. I was in no hurry. Bob opened a bottle of champagne. Also I saw over the de lightful house.

The Regency door opens on to! the' surprise of a floor of Spanish tiles. The entire ground floor is covered with these blue, yel- low.and oeige tiles. Most space is given to the dining room which has two high wall alcoves in which are set white marble statues. On the round antique table were white "-chrysan themums surrounded, by six silver candelabra with white candles. We went into the much photographed and 1 famous kitchen which is almost like a conservatory.

One wall is of glass doors looking out on to a trellis garden. In a tiled alcove is a 16th century French provincial table. Here Bob seats his guests when he does the cooking. Set into the long, wide work-and-cooking bench is a charcoal grill under a copper awning. Most of the first floor is sitting room with huge modern lounges more antique furniture.

There is an affectionate pug aptly called Hoover and an almost white Siamese cat with lilac eyes. They both appreciate the master's cooking. The cat keeps her figure. Now for the recipes two for" a dinner party. GERMAN VEAL WITH ALMONDS.

(Serves 6). Ingredients: 6oz button mushrooms thinly sliced; 4 tablespoons butter, 4 tablespoons olive oil; salt and fresh-ground pepper; 2 tablespoons Madeira; 6 veal escalopes, about 4, to Soz each; 6 oz cooked tongue; 2 eggs; 3 oz fine dry breadcrumbs; 3 oz flaked almonds; plain flour. Method: Saute mushrooms in 1 tablespoon each of butter and olive oil until soft lBaisk who comprise, the Springboks. At first they appeared to take the abuse being hurled at them in good spirits. They still try to ignore the shouts and missiles, but patience has by now worn thin.

The lack of sleep, the tension, the abuse, the travelling in small aircraft and cars over great distances all appear to be getting them They, are reluctant to talk about the demonstra-. tions. but occasionally something slips out. The team manager, Mr G. P.

Flappie Lochner, a centre in the 1937 Spring (2L Neville, is of course, no newcomer. He has been Foodmaster of the Society for years, and has done a really marvellous job organi- sing our functions with enthusiasm and good taste. He himself, as.yjou probably know, runs a delightful' restaurant at Neutral "Bay, called Claudia's and is acknowledged among his wine-and-food colleagues as a master-hand at sauce making. To mark his inauguration as president, a dinner was arranged at the Macleay Street Travelodge. It also served as a rather severe test for the new Foodmaster, Graham Latham, who is at the very updated Food School at East Sydney Tech.

I have no" doubt that Gra- nam spcni uays in uiscussiuu with Tony Bodham to make this dinner the success that it Tony is chief of the food, activities of the Travelodge organisation, arid came back specially from the South Pacific to supervise this- rather' special meal. Although his duties include organising the food and training the staff for all the excellent Travelodge dining-rooms, wherever they are set up, I imagine that those hard-core members of the Wine and Food Society who always appear at the President's Dinner, rwould provide him with quite- a In fact (and this is a tribute to both him and Graham Latham) this year's meal was the first where I remember hearing no criticism of the food or the wine. I'm sure that Graham has been carefully groomed for his new post by Neville Baker. The retiring president, Rudy Komon, is responsible for the fine cellars that -the Wine and Food 'Society can now draw from, for their ft HlNDEMAfff I CLARET uimhi mis nun nM" -Hi brown, about 10 minutes. Serve immediately with Hol-landaise Sauce.

PETITE POTS All CHOCOLATE. A L'ORANGE. (Serves 8). These are being featured in the Carrier Restaurant at the present time. Absolutely delicious.

Ingredients: 8oz dark, bitter chocolate; 3 oranges (2 large and 1 medium sized). 2 oz butter. Grand Marnier or cognac, 4 eggs, separated. Method: Break chocolate into the top of a double saucepan. Finely grate the rinds of 2 large oranges; squeeze their juice and add both juice and rind to chocolate together with butter.

Heat over simmering water, stirring occasionally, until chocolate has melted. Then remove from heat; add 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier or cognac and beat until smooth. In a bowl beat egg yolks thoroughly. Strain in chocolate mixture through a fine sieved beating constantly. Cool.

In another bowl beat egg whites until stiff but not dry. Fold into chocolate mixture gently but thoroughly with a spatula. Pour mixture into 8 individual pint) pots or souffle dishes and chill until set. (Do not use metal pots as chocolate may discolour.) Just before serving: Cut 4 thin slices from the centre of remaining orange. Quarter slice and lay two point to point, on top of each pot.

pour over a teaspoonf ql of Grand Marnier or cognac. Swirl pot around very gently so that entire surface is moistened. Serve immediately. I have other Carrier recipes coming along. There's one called Pillow of Chicken Which is exceptionally good.

So far most of them have not been able 'to walk down city streets looking at the sights or meeting local girls. Used- to being treated like kings at home, they don't like this, but they accept their enforced isolation without public complaint. Their football, too, has suffered, although to date they have walked over the teams they have played. The- demonstrations, which twice halted the match in Adelaide, visibly interrupted their concentration. It seems to me that the worst is yet to come for the South African visitors.

ing and pouncL to a paste with seasonings. Mix in the panada, and with a wooden spoon, work in 2 whole.eggs and 1 egg yolk. Sieve the mixture and then shape into oval balls with a spoon, or fill into buttered barquettes, Poach them in lightly salted water, drain well and serve with a sauce. This can be a simple Bechamel, or Nantua sauce, which, in its simplest form is a Bechamel fla voured1 with crayfish enriched with cream, has chopped flakes of crayfish in it. BRAISED GUINEA FOWL For six people you would need 2 good sized birds.

As Guinea fowl has rather a dry flesh it should always be larded before cooking. Brown the Guinea fowl 'n a baking dish in butter and add to the pan i pint dry white wine, 2 tablespoons to mato puree and pint Sauce Demi-glace, season to taste, cover and braise in the oven, allowing 35-40 minutes to the depending on the size of your birds. Renfove the birds to a serving platter (carve if you prefer, before serving) strain and reduce pan juices, adjust season ings. A little Madeira can be added to the sauce. Pour the sauce over the Guina (owl and serve.

STRAWBERRIES UN CHAMPAGNE. Wash' and hull large ppe strawberries. Chill. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. At serving time pile into indi vidua! champagne glasses and pour over chilled cham pagne.

Pass whipped cream sweetened and flavoured with brandy or liqueur, in sauce bowl separately. From page 51 pounced on them and carted them off, too. After the Adelaide match key. demonstrators flew across to Melbourne to advise what tactics to adopt i at yesterday's match at the Olympic Park field. The opposition to the tour is carefully organised.

It gains much of its support from the protesters who took part in the moratorium activities, of course. And it looks as though, with the Vietnam winding down, anti-apartheid may become the popular issue to militants. At the centre of all this -attention at the moment aro the 25 players and two boiled, stewed, baked coconut?" Beat eggs lightly with a little water. Toss breadcrumbs with flaked almonds. Dust veal envelopes with flour; dip into beaten egg and coat with almond-bread crumb mixture, patting it on firmly.

Chill. To cook veal: Melt remaining butter and oil, and fry veal envelopes slowly on both, sides until golden itself much so far. Although they have been able to relax a little more in Melbourne ovejv the past few days, where they have been billeted in the homes of Victorian Rugby Union supporters and officials, they were constantly followed by anti-apartheid demonstrators when they ventured out in cars. The social enjoyment they- have been able to have has mainly been confined to drinking beer, with ARU people behind, locked and guarded doors. They know that when they emerge they are going to be abused by "Which do you prefer or fried and golden.

Add salt and fresh-ground pepper to taste, sprinkle with Madeira and allow to cool. Beat escalopes out as thinly as possible. Cut tongue into thin strips: Divide into 6 bundles and pile each bundle in the centre of an escalope. Spoon mushrooms over the top and fold each escalope into an envelope. door' boks' tour of Australia, told me the team was getting depressed.

He thinks the demonstrators are being paid for what they are doing. This is a rather naive view, but most of the team members and the dozen South African sporting journalists who are travelling with them have a rather simplistic outlook on the whole thing. They say they are not Interested in "politics" but if 'pressed into talking about South Africa's racial policies they generally support them or at least don't question them. The team hasn't enjoyed 8t THE SUN-HERALD, JULY 4, 1971 80..