The Sydney Morning Herald from Sydney, New South Wales, Australia • Page 45

2 Good Food THE SYDNEY MORNING HERALD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 1997 Smallbone of Bayswater Brasserie and The Boathouse fame are planning a third. The Bondi space, First Floor, will be a chic 80-seater on Campbell Parade, complete with chocolate-coloured leather banquettes, cream marble floors and an intimate feel on the first floor of the Cairo Mansions. Chefs will be Tony Papas and Michael Klausen. Expect it to open progressive food store Jones the Grocer in Woollahra has snaffled the second chef, Peter Morgan-Jones, who says he's looking forward to nine-to-five shifts after two years of intense work, but that he may give Kyritsis a helping hand at his new space in Surry Hills. Another "high position" chef at Bennelong, Mark Jensen, has gone on to the Olympic Hotel, taking with him entree chef Lee Hokkiani.

1) On the bubble CULINARY BOUNDARY RIDER Ryuichi Yoshii is hailed by some as the best SUShi Chef in town. Photograph by GEORGE FETTING WORLD FARE INDIA Fashion designer Collette Dinnigan and her husband, composer Bernie Lynch, are lovers of fine food who found a rare, good spot in Mumbai (Bombay) on a recent trip to India. They recommend Palak panneer a delicious kind of spinach sludge the local Riviera white wine, Kingfisher beer, the yellow, tamarind okra, dhal, chicken kebabs marinated in yogurt, and mushroom and pea gravy. The three-tiered Khyber Restaurant gives the impression of dining in a limestone cave, with its scarred 40-year-old frescoes, and has a '70s-style disco on top. Lynch says the go is to order a separate The waiters stand behind the table waiting to be called.

Ask for extra chilli. $20 per person, without wine. 145 Road, Central Mumbai. Ph 91 22 267 3227267 3228. Grape viewing BRITISH wine expert and actor Oz Clarke's four-part wine series, An Australian Odyssey, promises to ignore the pretentiousness and pomposity of the "rules" for tasting wines in search of the sensuous, the fascinating and the seductive experience.

Begins tomorrow at 8 pm on SBS. Yoshii sushi Taste of Orient NOT a rising sun in sight. The beautiful new, cliche-free Uchi Lounge is the latest, and definitely the smartest, addition to Surry Hills. It resembles an atmospheric, eclectic Japanese teahouse, featuring celadon ceramics, repro Victorian mahogany chairs and a samovar. Young Japanese chef Hiroshi Uchiyama cooks up a fascinating, accessible menu, starting with good miso, grilled garlic soy rice cakes through to sushi and such.

Sip chilled wheat or green tea to soundtracks such as Almodovar's The Flower of My Secret. Uchiyama's partner, Seta Evanian, is opening the equally chic space above as a gallery for textiles, design and costume. BYO and takeaway. Monday-Friday, 8 pm; Saturday, 3 pm. 15 Brisbane Street, Surry Hills, 9261 3524.

AT Burgerman. Sydney's superlative burger venue, things just keep getting groovier. On offer are two new Australian fizzies: Chinotto made by Australian Pure Waters Pty Ltd in Melbourne, and a guarana natural "caffeine" drink called Samba, which features on the label two Latin-looking types cha-cha-ing in silhouette against a tropical sunrise. So far we haven't seen any cha-cha-ing of the vertical kind in the streets of Dar-linghurst, but Short Black is on the alert. 116 Surry Street, Darlinghurst, 9361 0268.

1s I Inn 4 I SMART SET Seta Evanian and Hiroshi Uchiyama of Uchi Lounge. Bennelong movement Several chefs have moved on since head chef Janni Kyritsis's departure from Bennelong. The Quality Foods sold out in one day. Chocaholics should try Bon Bon Chocolates, Harris Arcade, 12 Cross Street, Double Bay, 9327 4046. new style wider, bigger flavours.

Many chefs work with a tight flavour spectrum, like the rainbow. The rainbow has seven colours, but I want to find more." Some of Yoshii's flavours may challenge even the most intrepid gastronome. Tofu cheesecake? Tuna chocolates? Tempura fig served with maple syrup, sour cream and paprika? Yoshii shrugs that he cannot satisfy everybody. His mission is to entrance and give pleasure to "seven out of 10" customers. His radical world of flavours is housed in chic surroundings, a clever combination of Western and Japanese elements by the Centennial Park architects Di Veroli Scotton softly scored tatami flooring, elegant chairs, important ceramic works housed in rich beechwood panelling, black banquettes plump with upholstery and golden mesh metallic lightshades.

And on the table, handmade tableware by ceramic master Mitsuo Shoji and Lex Dickson. Overall there is a sense of freshness about the space and the food, marking an exciting newcomer on the food scene. Ground Floor, Mercure Apartments, I Darling Harbour. 9211 6866. NICOLE LEHMANN Program's Food Symposium on July 1920.

It all sounds very posh, and it is. Just look at the line-up Stephanie Alexander, Gay Bilson, Charmaine Solomon, David Thompson and Alan Saunders all sharing their passion for working with food in Australia. Lunch on Saturday at the Sydney Opera House and lunch on Sunday at Government House will feature noodle throwing, the famous scones of Quang Tart, Sydney's renowned Chinese-born tea entrepreneur and restaurateur, an exhibition of early Australian cookery books and a display of early silver flatware. From $100 per day. Inquiries, 9250 7419, bookings, 9250 7777.

Foodie fanfare visit to Sydney, surfie super-designer Mark Newson said he'd love to design them, adding it was nice to be asked. Despite all his success overseas, he says no-one has ever asked him to design something in Australia. The problem is catching him. Frustrated with the wait, Bilson's owner Leon Fink is now looking at a Swedish chair discovered by Swedish wine connoisseur Anders Josephson. A chair change doesn't come cheaply these days.

It will cost about $160,000. RYUICHI and Virginia Yoshii's first restaurant has been open for only a few weeks and already it has a devoted following. Aficionados of Japanese food, such as chefs Tetsuya Wakuda and Matthew Moran, and cooking personality Geoff Jansz, have already been seen perching at Yoshii's 12-seat sushi counter, savouring the mysteries of steamed sea urchin in warm bonito jelly, topped with gold leaf and served in an eggshell, deep-fried quail legs in blue cheese and miso sauce, and superb sushi of swordfish, garfish, golden spot trout and tuna. Ever since the demure Yoshii did a stint cooking at Shiki Japanese Restaurant in The Rocks three years ago, after arriving from Japan, fans have been waiting patiently for him to open his own restaurant. Some say he is the best sushi chef in town.

Others praise him as simply one of the best young chefs in Sydney. And others, gourmets of Japanese cuisine such as the esteemed Japanese gastronomic manga writer Tetsu Kariya, recognise him as a Japanese young gun, a culinary boundary rider, pushing the limits of traditional Japanese cuisine with Western elements. "The menu is radical but also something that is happening in Japan." Yoshii says. "Now, mixing influences is very popular." Yoshii is fearless in his experimentation. "I want to discover new tastes," he says.

"I want a Hot chocolate AFTER Long Black included an item about Kennedy Wilson chocolates on June 17, stocks at Simon Johnson Purveyor of CATCH up with the very latest thoughts on food by attending The Government House Cultural mm tmsdl Seats to beat IN a bid to become one of Sydney's best-looking restaurants and. no doubt, with its eyes on a third hat in the SMH Good Food Guide, Bilson 's is on the verge of chansina its chairs. On a recent BELLE Fleur Fine Chocolate's heavenly shop in Rozelle has expanded to become Sydney's premier chocolate salon, with grand glass double-doors opening onto a handsome counter filled with beautiful chocs. Jan and Lynne ter Heerdt and their team of eight white-coated, white-capped staff beaver away at extravagant, hand-made sculp Hit the floor TWO restaurants may be enough for most Sydney restaurateurs but dynamic New Zealanders Tony Papas and Robert Editor Maggie Alderson Phone 9282 2941 Fax 9282 2481 Short black Phone 9282 2315 Fax 9282 2481 Advertising Sev Celik Phone 9282 1943 Fax 9282 1748 Infosearch fee-based research of articles in Good Living: phone 9282 3052, fax 9282 3656 tures such as the Parthenon (pictured, with Jan) and fresh cream-filled creations such as a rosemary, white hazelnut with blood orange, peach melba, pistachio and ginger. There's even a bush essence range.

658 Darling Street, Rozelle, 9810 2690. Your next function can have Sydney's most spectacular space for 600, indoor and outdoor, by the water, next to the city So what's the catch? For themed parties, award nights, product launches, corporate breakfasts, weddings Jordon's magnificent harbour setting beats staring at four surrounding Jordon's Vr DARLING HARBOUR walls anytime! So what's the catch? Simply the freshest seafood in town. At Jordon's, the international seafood restaurant at Darling Harbour. Phone 9281 3711 Seafood as fresh as this morning. For Auction 7th August 1997, 7.00 pm In Our Rooms 36-38 Phillip St Parramatta i Sopko cles 'AFTPANrT To advertise in Good Living telephone Sev Celik on 9282 1943 "RESTAURANT, WINE CELLARS RESIDENCE" 5kjn from Cowra, 2 hoars Canberra 35 houis from Sydacv is this outstanding restaurant, wine cellar 4 residence.

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