Arizona Republic from Phoenix, Arizona • Page 60

ALL EDITIONS IBM! JIJJ The Arizona Republic 1 i He Wants Sparkling Eyes, Pale Lips 1)111 womens 56 The Arizona Republic Phoenix, July 15, 1967 i Nancy in New York Romance Bubbles In Soda Fountains By CHARLOTTE CURTIS New York Times Women's Newi Editor MOSCOW Vyacheslav Zaitsev, 28-year-old Soviet fashion designer the1 Russians are forever likening to France's Yves Saint Laurent, likes diamonds. As tar as he's concerned, there's no limit to the amount a fashionable woman may wear. "If you have them, and they are real, you may wear as many as possible," he said here. "But if they're not so many, please." Zaitsev, a string bean of a man who wears suits with nipped-in waists in a country dominated by men in sack suits, is aware that few Soviet womenhave diamonds. That doesn't bother him.

Like all designers, he dreams of things as he thinks they should be artistically, rather than of things as they are. "IF I had my way," he said boyishly, "women would be eyes all eyes that sparkle and pale, pale lips. But it's dangerous to say this. Women do not measure their eyes very well. The lines they draw are far too long.

Eyebrows should not be so dark, either." Zaitsev expressed this and other thoughts on contemporary Soviet fashion at the 30-year-old Moscow House of Fashion where he works. He wore a blue suit with the jacket draped nonchalantly over his shoulders, a bright pink shirt and a paisley necktie that contrasted with the paisley hankerchief in his breast pocket. Such clothes are not common here. "What I see coming," he said, pulling dozens of sketches out of a battered leather briefcase, "is the romantic look. Yes, the romantic look for 1968 and 1969.

Already, there are signs of it. Our women are more romantic now. They should be beautiful." It is not clear what Zaitsev means by "romantic." His sketches are a smorgasbord of ruffles, tents with ring collars like those Pierre Cardin made famous, the severe simplicity of Andre Courrege's architectural dresses are all influenced by the and-so new that none have yet appeared on Moscow streets short dresses with matching or contrasting shorts. BUT ZAITSEV'S ideas for "romanticizing" women come at a time when women's roles in Soviet society is rapidly being redefined. No longer are they permitted to do the heavy work they once did in mines, steel manufacturing and construction.

Now that life is being made "softer" for them, they are supposed to look and dress the part. "At first, I thought of high-waisted dresses with flaring skirts from under the bust," Zaitsev said. "In the beginning, this was for little girls; now it is for the older women. It will keep women young through fashion." Zaitsev's most distinctive designs, including those shown at Expo 67 in Montreal, incorporate folk motifs bright floral patterns that appear as epaulettes, insets or whole dresses. He is addicted to early Russian designs, but has broadened his scope to include Ukrainian motifs.

They, too, are rightly patterned and colorful, but not very sophisticated. FEW OF Zaitsev's sketches are ever made up. The House of Fashion, a center that specializes in the design, manufacture and display of a limited number of sample clothes, has 65 other designers all of whose ideas must first be approved by the chief of designers and then by an arts council. The arts council comprises artists, writers, cultural officials and representatives of the related industries. It tends to be staid, as well as conservative partly because the manufacturing process is not up to the reproduction of complicated ideas.

The manufactuers are more concerned with production quotas. His sketches are less old-fashioned than the clothes that are finally made, The designs often have to be translated into available, usually simpler fabrics. "Very long skirts will be uglier than miniskirts," he predicted, although he admires Marc Bohan's long, swaggering coats. "Officially, our length is mid-knee. Unofficially, we approve of short skirts on the young." in front even if only four little tables.

People are looking for a little grand relaxation. Old-fashioned soda shops are quite "the thing" here. Blums of San' Francisco just opened up near the Plaza in quaint turn-of4he-century fashion. New Yorkers love it. MAYBE THE situation was best indicated at the Coty cosmetic show which predicted what our beau IBi HimitflKli ty and cosmetic life will be like in the year 2,000.

Then, you'll be going to completely computerized -salons. Enter a capsule and speak to a consultant on a screen. After this "per-" sonal" consultation, you'll push the "send" button, and the products will appear before you pills to curl and uncurl your hair. Pills to color it. Even pills to change the color of your eyes.

When the show finished, there were quite a "whews" and the womeii ran out to make appointments with their favorite hairstylists to talk. The year 2,000 will be just too de-personalized. By NANCY RIPPS Republic Fashion Writer NEW YORK This is the city where the trends of tomorrow are on the streets and in the shops today. Take hair styles: In 1965 and even into early 1966, the geometric haircut was the thing. It was modern, it was space age, it was severe.

Now the trend is toward the soft, the curled, the feminine. No more straight, blunt cuts for top hair-stylists here. Adrian, of Charles of the Ritz, calls his "Plume Cuts" recreating, the gay, spicy French period of la Belle Epoque. WHEN I asked him about the geometries, he said "No, a thousand times, no. We are going back to the softer, more feminine look, just as fashion is." Others dub their styles "Grecian," and so on.

They are all curlier, softer and very "untough" chic, whether they be long or short. In the furniture store windows you see a reflection of the same mood. Severe furniture characterized by Danish modern has to be searched for. But there are plenty copies of English manor, or Louis of France. Antique shops never had it so good.

Italian, French, English, early American --you name it it's being bought. Two years ago when L'Etoile opened, it was the chic restaurant. Severe, gray and white, and quite space age in feeling. Now every little restaurant has a sidewalk cafe Solo Vacations Aid Marriages Travel agencies offering separate summer vacations for husbands and wives in Copenhagen, Denmark, can show customers testimonials from a dozen marriage counselors that recommend annual separations for couples who can stand it. A typical three-week tour that takes husbands to the mountains and wives to the seashore ends with a three-day "reconciliation honeymoon together" in Venice.

Foreign Women Pilots They Fly Airliners, Gliders, Even Sets BY CHERYL REXFORD American women have more freedom obtaining flying licenses, but members of 99ers International look with envy at the jobs held by their foreign sisters. Despite a tight, prejudicial barrier in many foreign countries against female flyers, several have managed to break through, proving their skill and efficiency in commercial and instructing areas once restricted to men. Six flyers visited the Valley after attending the recent association of women pilots' annual convention in Washington, D.C. THEY SPENT one afternoon at the home of Mr. and Mrs.

George Vial (Mary Vial is the local 99er chairman) looking more like poolside socialites than professional flyers. Women flyers in Pakistan are highly respected, according to Shukria Ali, who works as an instructor for Pakstan International Airlines. She is the only woman in her country with a commercial license, and a flying, glider, ground and F-27 jet Instructor. Yet Shukria has managed to retain an affable rapport with her male colleagues, even though she topped them in a class of 67. BOZENA KRAJCA, formerly from Czechoslovakia, learned to fly in 1937.

When she left in 1949 after the war, she took with her the title of the country's aerobatics champion. Now living in Sydney, Australia, Bozena explained there are more than 300 women flyers there, most with private licenses. She was the first woman in a Communist country to fly a commercial airplane and be an instructor. Australia can boast of being the only country, outside the Iron Curtain, which employs several women airline captains, said Mrs. Margaret Kentley of Sydney.

A PILOT for 32 years, Mrs. Kentley is governor of the Australian section of 99ers, an organization founded in 1929 by Amelia Earhart. Giribala Mohanty from Bhubaneswar, Orissa, Indian is the only woman in her state with a private license: "There is much prejudice in my country towards women flyers, but already 100 have licenses." I Mrs. Betty Nyenhuis, from the Netherlands, was a glider pilot eight years and now works as a nurse when she and her husband, also a glider pilot, aren't off on week-end jaunts across Europe. "WE SHARE a plane with 10 other people.

Private planes "are scarce in the Netherlands, and there are only 12 women who have private licenses," she said. "There are no positions available for women commercial flyers in the Netherlands," said the pilot, who competed in a flying rally i friend, Dr. Lucie Wymans, three weeks ago. Republic Photo Ea Ryan Pilots: The Netherlands Dr. Wymans, India's Mohanty, Australia's Krajca "We were the only women to enter the Dutch Air Rally last year, and we finished seventh among 20 entrants," she smiled.

Her husband and another pilot were Dutch champions last year. Lucie, who flies to "be free of my work," made her longest flight several years ago to Italy. "My longest solo was to France, which took about four hours," she said. ACCORDING TO outgoing international president, Alice Roberts of Phoenix, "General aviation is much costlier in Europe, and there are more restrictions. There are some airports where a civilian pilot is not allowed to land." Mrs.

Roberts, who has flown in 12 Powder Puff Derbies, believes the public is not mentally ready to accept women as commercial pilots. "I don't feel aviation has been completely accepted by the public. Many people have never flown and many more wouldn't fly if a woman were flying the plane," she added. i v'i ft xv. IpA jj TALI GALS A REVOLUTION IN TALL STYLING! A complete fashion shop dedicated to the taller than-average or knger-waisted girl! SPECIAL PURCHASE! I-Ja CHARMING CHILDREN TEENS SHOP THOMAS MALL, 44th St.

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