The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on May 24, 1998 · Page 45
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 45

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Salina, Kansas
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Sunday, May 24, 1998
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Page 45
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Dining EATING WELL is Americans' top priority when choosing vacation spots. Follow your appetite on these 5 terrific road trips. At Jigger's in East Greenwich, R.I., load up the johnnycakes with pure maple syrup. Island specialty, johnnycakes. These steamy little cornmeal pancakes, which historians suspect originally were named "journey cakes" because you could pack them for a trip, are made with fine- grained meal and available with pure maple syrup. You could spend years exploring Providence and never run out of interesting diners, bakeries, fish-'n'-chips shacks and pizza joints. But don't miss Al Forno, a modern Mediterranean-themed bistro that has set national trends, especially for its unbelievably tasty wood-grilled pizzas. The most fertile neighborhood to explore is Federal Hill, rich with Italian food shops. Two landmarks: Providence Cheese, which makes its own mozzarella, whole-grain breads, and pastas, and Angelo's Civita Farnese Restaurant, for home cooking to make an Italian grandmother proud. Boston is a fine eating city, but a lousy one in which to drive. Still, we're frequently lured in by the dark, dowdy, rib-sticking wonder of Indian pudding (long-cooked cornmeal and molasses) at historic Durgin-Park in Faneuil Hall. Famous for cranky waitresses and mess-hall atmosphere, Durgin-Park also serves other Yankee specialties such as oyster stew, stone-crock baked beans and strawberry shortcake on a baking-powder biscuit. It is also renowned for Neanderthal-sized slabs of prime rib with tides of good mashed potatoes. One of this nation's most succulent bonanzas is Massachusetts' North Shore, where the fried clams are fit for hungry gods. We get weak-kneed thinking of the ones they make at White Cap Seafood Restaurant and Tavern and at Woodman's of Essex (the latter where the fried clam was invented, in 1916): sweet ocean morsels veiled in golden crunch. Clams are generally served with other fried things (potatoes and onion rings) and what Yankees call "tonic" — soda pop. Mohan IHUc, Route 27. Mystic, Conn.; 860-536-2122. Abbott* U>D»t» In the RoutX 117 Pearl St, Noank, Coon.; 860-536-7719. Aunt Carrlol, Point Judith, Narragansett HI • 401-783-7930. Jl(0f% Minr, 145 Main St., East Greenwich. R.I.; 401-884-5388. Al Feme, 577 S. Main St, Providence, R.I.; 401-272-7980. Piwhtanct ChoeM, 178 Atwells Ave., Providence, R.I.; 401-421-5653. An*** CMta FUHOM fMaurairt, 141 Atwells Ave., Providence, R.I.; 401-621-8171. DunJIn-Pwtc, Faneuil Hall, Boston; 617-227-2038. Whta Cap Sufwd RMtaunnt and tarn, 141 High St. Ipswich, Mass.; 978-356-5276. Woodman* ol Etta, 121 Main St, Essex. Mass.; 978-768-6451. Chili Road: El Paso to Cbimayo,N.M. WHERE THE RIO GRANDE runs from New Mexico to Texas, green chilies soak up sun in the summer and turn brilliant red as they ripen in the fall. At the H&H Coffee Shop, a short-order cafe and car wash in El Paso, their heat and taste make breakfast an eye-opener. Watching vehicles being soaped and toweled, you can fork into divine huevos rancheros smothered with incendiary bits of green chili. New Mexico's Mesilla Valley is lush with verdant fields of peppers, among which is a small restaurant beloved by chiliheads since 1940: Chope's. Every table is equipped with a pitcher of water so thirst can be slaked continuously. The take- no-prisoners salsa sounds the alert that this kitchen takes full advantage of New Mexico's favorite crop. The best meal is chiles relknos: whole stuffed peppers filled with cheddar, breaded and fried crisp — a celebration not of chili's heat, but its deep, earthy flavor. In Mesilla, La Posta is the place to go for tostadas, chili-blanketed enchiladas and chunky guacamole in a two-century-old building decorated with frontier artifacts and a piranha tank. Up the road in San Antonio, savor the green chili cheeseburgers at the rough-and- tumble Owl Bar and Cafe. Santa Fe is the state capital and a culinary capital. You could spend weeks eating up and down the status ladder, from Horseman's Haven, a restaurant attached to a gas station, where breakfast is a huge flour tortilla loaded with eggs and bacon, to the elegant Santa- cafe, a Southwestern bistro with Asian touches. (Try the chili-spiked brioche.) Must-eat spots around town include Tecolote Cafe for a breakfast of blue corn pancakes; Roque's Carnitas Wagon, where sizzling beef is wrapped in thick tortillas for eating on the stroll; Cafe PasquaPs for memorable quesadillas; and chef Mark Miller's trend-setting Coyote Cafe. The high road toward Taos leads from Santa Fe into the Sangre de Cristo foothills and a fitting culmination to a trip along the Chili Road: dinner at Rancho de Chimayo. In this old hacienda with its plank wood floors and crackling fireplace, you'll enjoy such native delights as sopaipillas (featherweight triangles of fried bread) and came adovada (chili-marinated pork). Get an outdoor table where candles flicker and roving musicians serenade, and where the crisp air smells of Southwest romance. H1H CoffM Shop, 701 E.Yandell, El Paso; 915-533-1144. Chop.*, Highway 28, La Mesa. N.M.; 505-233-9976. La Potta RMtaunnt, 2410 Calle de San Albino, Mesilla, N.M.; 505-524-3524 (M Bar Md Cafe, Main at Second, San Antonio. N.M.; 505-835-9946. Honomairt Hawn, 6500 Cerriilos Rd., Santa Fe; 505-471-5420. Sartacafo, 231 Washington Ave., Santa Fe; 505-984-1788. locokrto Caft, 1203 Cerrtllos Rd., Santa Fe; 505-988-1362. Roquet CarnlU.Wafen, Washington at Palace, Santa Fji(no_pnone). Caff Paqual 1 . 121 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe; 505-983-9340. Coyote Cafe, 132 W. Water St, Santa Fe; 505-983-1615. Ranclw «o CKunayo, Route 520, Chimayo, N.M. 505-351-4444. Jeanette Martinez of the charming Rancho de Chimayo, Chimayo, N.M. , MORE SPECIAL TRAVEL REPORT ON FOLLOWING PAGES USA WEEKEND • May 22-24,1B9B 6

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