The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas on May 16, 1998 · Page 5
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The Salina Journal from Salina, Kansas · Page 5

Salina, Kansas
Issue Date:
Saturday, May 16, 1998
Page 5
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TJHE SALINA JOURNAL FASHION SATURDAY, MAY 16, 1998 AS T SKIRTS Pleated skirts populate fashion runways BRIEFLY it's too soon ttell if skirts will in many stores BECKY HOMAN 0uis Post-Dispatch J isey Miyake, take a back seat, our signature pleats are every;re these days. fashion runways from Milan to FjSJ-is to New York are populated w|th nippy little knee-length pjlgated skirts. iyake's genius for working §ats into just about every aspect ^a woman's garment seems to hpjre settled — for 1998 — into the aiija bounded, to the north, by the vfcaiistline and, to the south, by the kjlee. jtjDoes this mean that pleats will b^making their way into stores in lajge numbers? Not necessarily. &A random sampling of a half- dljeen retailers — large and small -fwjturned up only a few, so far, s^jing the pleats. ejjhe fashion forward woman vjjjjjl need to get used to the look as ojae that underscores a high-fash- i^ft, but casual, ensemble of flippy sB^rt plus sweater set or sleeveless t^-tleneck or big white shirt. t nd that will depend on the con- lation of this trend into sum' and fall, especially by design- who get lots of exposure. r .,ut in the meantime, pleats are w$rth pursuing. KSome new pleated looks mimic opes from the '50s, including: | • Box pleats, as fabric folded pressed into wide pleats on Photos by Soripps Howard News Service A pleat-accented skirt of lightweight wool by Ann Freedberg ($158) pairs here with a silk-knit sweater set by Laurie B. and chiffon neckerchief. top, with inverted pleats between each box. • Accordian pleats, named after the bellows of an accordian. They sometimes are smaller at the top and larger at the bottom. These also have been called sunburst or fan pleats. • The aforementioned knife pleats, pressed-in usually one-half inch to one inch apart, with all pleats going in the same direction. In the history of pleats, there also are those called bias, cluster, crystal, envelope, fan, and godet, inverted, kick, kilt, mushroom, pipe organ and umbrella. Dukes of Burgundy in the 15th century had enormous wealth and influence and also a penchant for pleats, with the court of Phillip the Good making the softly rounded pipe-organ pleat the signature of the age. In the 19th century, the images of an 18th-century painter named Jean Antoine Watteau showed up in fashion as a series of different types of "Watteau" pleats hanging free from the back of a shoulder to This knee-length pleated skirt is from designer Marc Jacobs. the hem of a dressing gown. At the turn of this century, the Venetian designer Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo patented a pleating process that pressed columns of tiny crinkle pleats into silk. In the '90s, it's the texture of pleats, whether used minimally or maxed-out all over, that makes an outfit look new. Nicole Kidman on best-dressed list NEW YORK — Designer Carolina Herrera and daughter Carolina Jr. were honored recently by a poll of 1,500 fashion journalists, designers and "other qualified observers." The International Best-Dressed Poll has been conducted annually since 1940 by Eleanor Lambert, founder and coordinator. Herrera was among 12 women honored as the Best-Dressed Women of 199798. The list also includes designer Mary McFadden and actresses Nicole Kidman and China Chow. The annual list of Best-Dressed Men of 1997-98 includes Matt Lauer, co-host of NBC's "Today" . show; British musician-actor ; David Bowie; and Rupert Everett, who starred with Julia Roberts in "My Best Friend's Wedding." Fashion models opt for classic ponytails KANSAS CITY, Mo. — You're running carpools or headed for the gym, and quickly you slick your hair back into a ponytail. It's easy, simple and doesn't require a hairstylist. It's also chic. Ponytails or stylized versions were favorite looks on the fashion runways. Gone was the tousled, ( just-out-of bed peaks. Quirky big hair was nowhere. Stylists instead opted for the look of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy or a young Audrey Hepburn. Designer Marc Jacobs had ponytails topping pleated skirts and cashmere sweaters. Narcisco Rodriguez featured them over his tube tops and knee-length skirts. From Wire Service Reports SEW SIMPLE Outfit with long vest fits travel plans *0) West Coast seamstress desires casual yet sophisticated clothes Dear Eunice Farmer: I love your column, especially the patterns you recommend. I live on the West Coast and want a sophisticated, casual style that is very informal. Can you provide a simple pattern that I can mix and match? — Laney W. Dear Laney: I have found a pattern that I think would fit into just •y about everyone's wardrobe. It's casual, but it can be sophisticated depending on your choice of fabric, and it is certainly a mix-and-match garment. It's also a great travel ensemble. Butterick 5481, sized 8-24, includes soft pants (with elastic at the back only), a short- sleeved shell or overblouse and a long, sleeveless vest or coat. The fabric can be a silky- type polyester, rayon, silk, challis or knit. You can also mix fabrics successfully in the same garment! Dear Eunice Farmer: I've just begun using my new embroidery machine and wonder why it is necessary to use special thread. I had hoped to be able to use all my old leftover threads. — Sharon T. Dear Sharon: I'm so glad you asked! I receive many inquiries about threads and needles for embroidery machines. I could elaborate with many reasons but will give you one good reason. The regular thread that we use for sewing is a braided three-ply thread for strength. It's perfect for our sewing machines but unsuitable EUNICE FARMER King Features for surface work because it gives your embroidery a dull, bumpy appearance. Embroidery thread is two-ply, which gives a smooth, flat appearance. Always use lingerie thread in the bobbin. Embroidery needles have extra- large eyes, which allow the thread to float through and avoid shredding. There is an incredible number of stitches in every design. Please change needles often; don't wait until they cause a problem! For those of you who are still debating whether you will use an embroidery machine often enough to warrant the price, don't feel you have to justify a fun thing! We all have limited time. You can buy ready-to-wear and satisfy your creative urges with embellishments that personalize your garments. Embroider towels, bedding, sweat shirts and many gift items! Dear Eunice Farmer: I am very short-waisted but love to wear belts. Should I avoid them for a longer look? — Tina B. Dear Tina: Attractive buckles are a great accessory, but for a longer look, choose the same color belt as your blouse instead of a contrast. Salina winner Winner of the lighted seam ripper and needle threader, for the sewing tip of the week, is Dorothy Boyle of Salina, Kan. Her tip: "When machine-sewing a casing, vest lining or anything that you will later need to finish by hand, leave a long thread from the machine. After you insert the elastic or turn the vest, the thread is there for speedy hand stitches!" You, too, could win a lighted seam ripper and needle threader. Send your sewing tips to Eunice Farmer, Box 31729, St. Louis, MO 63131. If she selects your tidbit for publication, you'll receive this sewing notion. Farmer is a nationally recognized authority on sewing. She is an author, teacher, lecturer and- fashion reporter, and she owns her own fabric boutique and sewing school. > Every Tuesday 6PM-? Questions? Call 820-9559 Family Dining, Gift Shop, and Bar 2155 N. Hedville • 1-70 exit 244 • 785-820-9559 ***** Meal Specials Daily ***** Open 9am - 2am • Only 6 minutes west of Salina Live Bands Every Saturday liming up llj'TOMORROW'S JOURNAL •?JERRY SPRINGER : Is show t(|o hot for TV? / Page B1 TOO MANY BILLS? |! $10,000 -$110/mo ,$50,000 - $550/mo NO E QUITY REQUIRED I , Homeowners Only Ir - NATIONWIDK EfT LENDING CORPORATION 1-800-819-7010 ,,, Or Visit Our Websitel I" •'( presents fid West Hun featuring Men of PCaygirC Appearing at: m^ Rumors West State Street Road, Salina Sat., May 16th, 8 PM Doors open at 7 PM $5.00 Advance $7.00 at the Door Must be 18 to enter, 21 to drink 4. Look for money-saving coupons inside the next Sunday edition of *** Salina Journal *Guaranteed to home-delivered subscribers. For FREE information about ways to use coupons effectively, send a self-addressed, stamped, business size envelope to: Clippins Sense, c/o Public Relations, 19975 Victor Parkway, Livonia, Ml 48152

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