The Cincinnati Enquirer from Cincinnati, Ohio on October 2, 1991 · Page 47
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October 2, 1991

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The Cincinnati Enquirer from Cincinnati, Ohio · Page 47

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Cincinnati, Ohio
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Wednesday, October 2, 1991
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WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 1991 SECTION E EDITOR: TONI CASHNELLI, 369-1997 The Cincinnati enquirer What's for dinner?E-8 Guilt-free recipesE-8 Readers' exchangeE-2 Produce pointersE-3 Kreso Mikulic opens his winery to the world h ft $ BY TONI CASHNELLI The Cincinnati Enquirer ove over, Mondavi. Kreso Mikulic is here. "Our wine is as good as f i "i I jM . J ' ,v' " - v ' 1 ,:, ; t. h:J, .it-V , -. , . .. ;.,t ' ''"Nlfcte'- . V h ' 7 , r - V C ' '.r AL ? i ' i 1 L l rj.i j V. California," says Kreso, a 57-year-old native Croatian who has distilled the essence of winemaking into scientific principles. "Making wines is not any more an art," he says, employing the same scrambled syntax as Balki, the exuberant Slavic immigrant from TV's Perfect Strangers. "It's science. It's not any more some black magic." The fruits of his techniques are available for all to taste at Vinoklet, Hamilton County's only commercial winery with vineyards on the premises. Its opening three weeks ago in Colerain Township was noted in a microscopic ad in The Enquirer: "After 10 years of hard labor we are finally open for public tasting." The labor, much of it completed by Kreso, included excavation of two ponds (he calls them "lakes"), the planting of 4,000 grape vines and the construction of a contemporary, two-story tasting room that overlooks undulating rows of grapes framed by forests and bise:ted by a heart-shaped pond. "When I bought farm, it was all woods," he says. "I put in everything. Look at this. Almost created for winery. You couldn't see The Cincinnati EnquirerMichael E. Keating Framed by grape vines on the balcony at Vinoklet, Kreso Mikulic savors the wine and the scenery. If you go The Cincinnati EnquirerMichael E. Keating Vinoklet wines are produced from hearty American and French hybrid grapes. something different here. You couldn't imagine anything else." 'A little gold mine' Souvenirs posted on the wall of Vinoklet's tasting room attest to Kreso's everyday, bring-home-the-bacon profession, electrical engineering. Upstairs there are antique utility meters; downstairs, a plaque announcing a patent awarded for the development of an Alternating Current Motor with Adjustable Output Torque by Means of Adjustable Magnetic Bars. Other Kreso inventions a fuel transfer pump for the Bl Bomber, for example have allowed him to to amass substantial savings, enough to invest $500,000 in this venture without borrowing a dime. "I started this winery for a hobby," he says. "I thought, 'I will entertain my friends.' " "He's too intense to have what people think of as 'hobbies,' " says Warren Sublette, who runs a computer consulting business, teaches wine appreciation classes and conducts tastings for the local chapter of the American Wine Society. "He's a bit of an eccentric, but I really enjoy talking to him," says Greg Pollman, winemaker at 21 -year-old Valley Vineyards in Morrow. "I think he's got himself a little gold mine over there if he gets going with it." "I didn't make this winery for making money," says Kreso, who prefers to be called by his first name, a la Elvis or Cher. "It's not a question of how much you have in bank. It's quality of life. I could have a million dollars and sit around and watch TV and drink beer and have a big stomach. I don't have a million dollars. And I don't have a big stomach, either. I work hard. I work 25 hours a day." Mull that one over. "People think I am crazy. So many times (Please see WINERY, Page E-8) 3 V" h4 V .:. Vinoklet Winery, 11069 Colerain Avo., is open for tastings 5-1 0 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. To get there, follow Interstate 275 to the Colerain exit. Colerain splits into two forks and becomes U.S. 27 at the I-275 ramp; take the left fork (Old Colerain). Friday, the winery is hosting a cookout from 6-9 p.m. at $30 per person. Price includes steak (you grill it yourself), baked potato, salad, vegetables, bread, coffee or tea, dessert and a bottle of wine. Seating is by reservation only; call 385-9309. Valley Vineyards in Morrow, originator of the grill-it-yourself dinner concept, holds cookouts Friday and Saturday evenings beginning at 6 p.m. The $15 per person price includes strip steaks, vegetables, salads, homemade desserts and wine. Call 899-2485 to reserve a time. To get to Valley Vineyards, take Interstate 71 north to Exit 28 (Ohio 48) and turn left. At the second traffic light, turn left onto U.S. 22-3. Valley Vineyards is at 2276 East U.S. 22-3. THE CINCINNATI ENQUIRER ! iV; ! v. 1 "IWi"ii'il'l The Cincinnati EnquirerMichael E. Keating Kreso patrols the rolling terrain with the help of a Yamaha Champ ATV. Native of Ukraine writes cookbook to help sister city project Toni Cashnelli Foodstuff for calculating the percentage of sugar (by calorie) in breakfast cereals: Take the number of grams listed under "sucrose and other sugars" and multiply that by 4, the number of calories in 1 gram of sugar. Divide that by the number of calories in a dry serving to get the amount. CALLING ALL BAKERS: It's showdown time. Sunday from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., Sharon Woods Village is accepting entries for its annual Apple Pie Contest. First prize is one weekend night and breakfast for two at the Courtyard Marriott. To enter, tape your name, address, phone number and recipe to the bottom of your pie and deliver it to Hayner House. Winners will be announced at 3 p.m. The contest is part of the village's annual Harvest Festival 1-5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Admission is $3 for adults, $2 for senior citizens, $1 for children 6-12, and free to those 5 and under. Sharon Woods is on U.S. 42 in Sharonville. Ukrainian Easter Egg cover designed by Bilecky, is available for $9.95 at the Cincinnati Sister City Store at the Convention Place Mall and at Busken bakeries. To order by mail, send $9.95 plus $2.50 for postage and handling to: Sister City Project, Suite 906, Fifth & Race Tower, 120 W. Fifth St., Cincinnati, Ohio 45202. CEREALS REVISITED: This response to our Sept. 11 story, "Sugar in the Mornin'," comes from alert reader David Kundrat of Clifton: "While The Enquirer should be commended for emphasizing good nutrition, it has erred in the recent article on kids' cereal in the calculation of percentage of sugar by weight when, in fact, what is given is the percentage of sugar by calorie." He's right; the percentages we listed are derived from calories, not weight. For those who missed it, here's the formula Once a Ukrainian, always a Ukrainian at least as far as food is concerned. Oksana Melnyk left her Soviet homeland in 1949 and brought to this country a taste for mushroom dumplings, buckwheat kasha and herring salad. She and husband Lew, who teaches finance at the University of Cincinnati, serve as interpreters during annual visits by citizens of Kharkov, Ukraine, to its sister city, Cincinnati. "Last year after the delegation left we were sitting at the airport and thinking how we could raise money for the sister city project," Oksana says. "Somebody said, 'How about a cookbook?' " She and friend Larissa Bilecky turned their interpretive skills to cooking, translating instructions for native recipes gathered from friends in the Ukrainian community. They completed their cookbook, A Taste of Ukrainian Cuisine, in time to share copies with the mayor of Kharkov last month during the delegation's yearly visit. (Shortly before the trip, the Ukrainian parliament declared its independence from Moscow and the Soviet Union.) "We did it just to familiarize the reader with Ukrainian recipes," Oksana says. Even though some of the entries are a little short on directions Grandma's Cookies, for example, lists "rind of lemon" as an ingredient but doesn't tell how much the book is full of savory, borscht-style soups, dumplings and cabbage rolls, all guaranteed chill-chasers. A Taste of Ukrainian Cuisine, spiral-bound and embellished with a Cookbook proceeds benefit the Cincinnati-Kharkov Sister City Project. Relieve stress: Bake some bread ifS Presto! An easy, cheesy treat Fondue secrets from the master Page E-4 Page E-4 Page E-8

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