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V EDITOR: TONI CASHNELLI, 369-1997 the Cincinnati enquirer WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 1991 SECTION C What's for dinner?C-2 Guilt-free recipesC-6 Produce pointersC-6 Magic WhiskC-6 Food o n m Dietitians sort through cereals to find the sweetest of them all t -r .M' "".J f'-'X.SK J ; . :,): - )' ; . y ' ..A'V 1 t?y):, H a u -i'; ?k t Sr. i.- '.ft? ' M . i. - f J JF Sizing up the info Ever wonder why cereals have strikingly similar calorie counts? Manufacturers manipulate the serving size to fit a certain nutritional profile, says Kathy Hrovat, a licensed dietitian with the Center for Cholesterol Research. "Most of them have 90 to 1 10 calories per serving, and they do that by adjusting the serving size. I think it's really deceiving consumers. They think, 'At 1 1 0 calories, that's a low-calorie item for my children.' " It is, if they consume 1 ounce or less, the amount normally listed on the box. Most kids eat twice, even three times as much as that. Serving size is one of the stickiest issues in label reform, says Jeffrey Nedel-man, vice president of communications for the Grocery Manufacturers of America in Washington, D.C. "The issue is really the fundamental question, what is a serving size?" It's one of dozens of dilemmas the Food and Drug Administration has to resolve between now and May, 1993, to comply with The Nutrition Labeling and Education Act of 1990. "Congress as part of this law required the FDA to establish uniform serving sizes," Nedelman says. The new law mandates sweeping changes in nutritional labeling of 17,000 foods. "Just about everything except the brand name on the product is going to change between now and then," he says. At this point, "There is agreement that consumers will see twice as much information on products as they do now. There's little agreement on exactly how to do it and where to draw the lines. "Serving size on cereals may change; we don't know right now. They are trying to get draft proposals out by the end of the year." In the meantime, Hrovat offers this advice. "Eyeball what you normally serve and take a cup and measure it." If your serving size is 2 cups instead of the 1 cup listed on the box, multiply the nutritional values by two to get a more accurate picture. TONI CASHNELLI BY TONI CASHNELLI The Cincinnati Enquirer In the beginning, cereal was a very fine food. Low in fat, rich in vitamins, loaded with dietary fiber, it was the breakfast of champions. ; Parents loved it. Kids ate it up. ': Then came television. And the big boys Kellogg's, Nabisco, Quaker and General Mills n decided they could sell a lot more cereal by bathing it in sugar and fluorescent food colorings and jazzing up the packaging, turning boxes into posters promoting free toys, cartoon characters and the latest mega-hit movie. "Manufacturers have found a vulnerable audience in children," says Jayne Hurley, a nutritionist with the Center for Science in the Public Interest, a consumer advocacy organization in Washington, D.C. "Kids are bearing the brunt of the crap they're putting on the shelves." For most parents, "crap" translates into inordinate amounts of sugar. "Sugar seems to be the one criterion parents use when they choose good vs. bad cereals," says Kathy Hrovat, a licensed dietitian with the Center for Cholesterol Research, affiliated with the University of Cincinnati. "Sugar, brown sugar, honey whatever they call it, you're filling kids up but not giving them a food value." Kids weaned on high-sugar cereals grow into teens who swig Coke for breakfast. That's not the worst thing in the world (please see sugar story on Page C-2). There are, however, other, more nutritious foods that growing bodies require. Hrovat has seen her share of children hooked on sweets at the cholesterol center. That's one reason she volunteered, along with three colleagues, to analyze the leading cereals for sugar content. It took a couple of months and numerous trips to Bigg's, IGA, Kroger and Thriftway, but they managed to round up 230 cereals and decipher the nutritional information on most of them. Playing the numbers Calculating the percentage of sugar was easy. Finding the data to do it was the problem. Check the side of your cereal box for a section labeled, "Carbohydrate Information." On newer cereals, it's near the bottom of the side panel. On older boxes and house brands, the information is often incomplete. Stumped by some of the labels, Hrovat and company wrote to the major cereal manufacturers. "We asked if we could please have any information on nutrition, anything that might not be on the side of the box." That was two months ago. "We only heard from Kellogg's." To calculate the percentage of sugar in each cereal, the team took the number of grams listed under "sucrose and other sugars" and multiplied that by 4, the number of calories in 1 gram of sugar. Divide that by the number of calories in a dry serving, and you've got your amount. As evidenced by the chart on this page, the percentages are sometimes staggering. With 15 grams of sugar per serving, Post Super Golden Crisp is 60 sugar by weight. (Please see CEREAL, Page C-2) Anatomy of a cereal box, Page C-2. The Cincinnati EnquirerKevin J. Miyazaki Low in sugar Brand (without milk) High in sugar Brand (without milk) Serving size Calories Serving size Calories Sugar Sodium Fiber Sugar Sodium Fiber Post Super Golden Crisp Kellogg's Honey Smacks Kellogg's Apple Jacks Post Smurf Magic Berries Post Marshmallow Alpha Bits Kellogg's Fruity Marshmallow Krispies Post Cocoa Pebbles 78 cup 34 cup 1 cup 78 cup 1 cup 1 cup 78 cup 60 0 140 12 gm. 50 0 0 0 50 0 0 0 80 0 0 4gm. 110 1 gm.3 290 mg. 2gm. 110 2gnW7 310mg. 0 110 2gm.7 280 mg. 0 100 2gnW8 290 mg. 1 gm. General Mills Fiber One 12 cup Quaker Puffed Rice 1 cup Quaker Puffed Wheat . 1 cup Nabisco Shredded Wheat 1 biscuit General Mills Cheerios 114 cup PostToasties 114 cup Ralston-Purina Rice Chex 1 18 cup Kellogg's Corn Flakes 1 cup The following cereals contain moderate amounts of sugar and sodium, respectable amounts of fiber and relatively little fat per serving: General Mills Fiber One: No sugar, 140 mg. sodium, 13 gm. fiber Nabisco Shredded Wheat: No sugar, no sodium, 4 gm. fiber Post Grape Nuts: 11 sugar, 170 mg. sodium, 2 gm. fiber Kellogg's Nutri-Grain Wheat: 12.5 sugar, 170 mg. sodium, 3 gm. fiber Post Natural Raisin Bran: 20 sugar, 180 mg. sodium, 4 gm. fiber Post Grape Nut Flakes: 20 sugar, 160 mg. sodium, 2 gm. fiber Kellogg's Just Right with Fiber Nuggets: 20 sugar, 190 mg. sodium, 2 gm. fiber Post Fruit & Fibre: 22 sugar, 170 mg. sodium, 5 gm. fiber 100 15gm.60 45 mg. 0 110 15gm.55 70 mg. 1 gm. 110 14gm.51 125mg.1gm. 110 14gm.51 50 mg. 0 110 14gm.50 150mg.1 gm. 110 14gm749 210 mg. 0 110 13gm.47 150 mg. 0 110 13gm747 190 mg. 0 110 13gm.47 210 mg. 0 110 13gmV47 125 mg. 0 Ralston-Purina Cookie Crisp 1 cup General Mills Franken Berry 1 cup Kellogg's Fruit Loops 1 cup 4 grams -1 teaspoon sugar Fat content is 8 or less for each cereal. : 12 cup skim milk adds 43 calories; 1 milk adds 51 calories; 2 milk adds 60.5 calories; and whole milk adds 75 calories. : To determine the percentage of sugar in a dry cereal, look under "carbohydrate information' on the side ol the box. Multiply the number of grams of sugar by 4, then divide that total by the number of calories per serving (without milk). For example, a cereal that has 5 grams of sugar and 90 calories per serving is 22 sugar. Travel Journey Home to satiate royal appetite Toni Cashnelli Foodstuff i 1 The country that gave us Hamlet is also responsible for pickled walnuts, bloater paste and Marmite, a yeast extract that smells like dirty socks. Obviously British food, like Shakespeare, is an acquired taste. And those who have acquired that taste, no matter where they roam, get a little misty at the mention of shortbread and lemon curd. In fact, some customers are so overwhelmed to see staples from home, "I've had them come in here and cry," says Kris Pricer, co-owner of Journey Home, a shop that specializes in British food and merchandise. "If you're overseas and you see something familiar, it's a comfort to "em," says Pat Phipps, Pricer's partner, a 22-year transplanted Brit whose lingering accent is more reminiscent of Twiggy than Prince Charles. Opened in March Aside from English wares, their West Chester shop stocks foods and gift items (such as kilt pins, sweaters and Toby mugs) from Ireland, Scotland and Wales. Pricer and Phipps sounds like a pair of British solicitors, doesn't it? are same-street neighbors who opened the tiny shop in March, just in time for St. Pat- Brits to speed recuperation. "Some of it sounds sickening," Phipps says, blood pudding and mushy peas, for , example. "But it's not." Royal fixation For Pricer, the store is a natural extension of a family fixation with royalty. "I think it comes from my mother. I can remember as a child, anytime anything about the queen was on we all gathered in front of the TV." Phipps says there's more to America's fascination with British goods than her royal majesty. "You know what it is. Everything here is mass-produced." Back home, "They don't have mediocre clothing. Everything is hand-made." Everything, that is, except dinner. Ironically, "All the girls here are domesticated. Women in England are very basic cooks. They're useless. "Anymore, they eat about the same things there as we eat here." Journey Home is at 6809 Tylersville Road in West Chester (777-4500). To get there, take Exit 21 (Cincinnati-Dayton Road) off 1-75, head west, then turn left at the second traffic light. Hours are 10 a.m.-6 p.m. daily, noon -5 p.m. Sunday (closed Tuesday). rick's Day. "We always toyed with the idea," Pricer says. "We thought about a tea shop." After a bit of study they found a goodly number of British workers at General Electric and Sun Chemical they decided on more tangible goods. When you're away from home, "You miss everything," Phipps says. "One thing . I did miss was the candy." Partly to indulge her own sweet tooth, she imported a line of chocolate bars from Cadbury, a name more hallowed in Great Britain than that of the queen. The freezer at the store is full of rashers of Irish bacon, along with kippers (smoked herring), Irish sausages, finnan haddie (smoked haddock) and cornish pasties (meaty turnovers). Among the hottest sellers are Salad Cream, a rich, eggy dressing for greens, and Lucozade, a glucose drink used by Calculators on carts help you mind your money at Kroger stores. : PageC-3 Frances Price offers : advice for vegetarians on : piecing together proteins. -Page C-3 Light touch is essential ; for successful biscuits, Marilyn Harris says. Page C-6 The Cincinnati EnquirerKevin J. Miyazaki Pat Phipps, left, with partner, Kris Prjcer. Pat picked up the portrait of the queen at a pub.