Perfume story

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Perfume story - MTOTOA.T, OCTOBER 10,1921 THE PERFUMER AT WORK...
MTOTOA.T, OCTOBER 10,1921 THE PERFUMER AT WORK « By FREDERIC J. HASKIN Director Iowa City Press-Citizen Bureau, Washington, D. C. BUFFALO, N. Y., Oct. 7--The, tist, often a temperamental one perfumes modern women use are {He. sits among his vials, te.ii Federation n; ageii-i products | to: oif- be the power interest have can ,, secret business, but he could I W1 »en he gets it--and he may | learn things from modern perfum-1 work f0r montns witl1 some trou ' these' ers. if the art was not still a secret | Wesome yet fascinating problem- J and mysterious one. Many of the h « * eels th * 4 n « h " given the The laboratories in which perfumes are TM rld · work ° £ art - Orer-here 1 the master perfumer gets less re- preclous oil i« shipped from Bui- ered .from the four corners of garia in flat, round metal canteens earth.'' ·with big stoppers. Surely, you! Perfumes and Character. think, this will fill the room with j These bouquets, he explained^ sweetness, but attar of roses at are now very popular in this this stage is more suggestive of, try, though rose and violet are honeycomb--as near as these; always best sellers. The single, strong, almost paralyzing odors flower perfume is generally pro- can be compared to anything else.' ferred by strongly individualistic Beyond, on the shelves, are lav- persons. ender from the Alps in big glass' The perfumes a woman uses bottles, and bergamot in copper as good an index of character kettles from Sicily and Italy. Oil, the music she likes. The Russian more delicate products of the per-' t bes, and bits of cotton soaked ** Iemon in kettles is one of the' perfumes are heavy, almost orien- fumer'B art than the famous vials j in mixtures of scent;'always mix- few essences which would be re-jtal, with a suggestion of leather. ing and sniffi- g for the elusive cognized here by the average per-. Oriental perfumes easily call combination thaf will he new and so " from 1ne 0ior - J t s-nHls just the mysterious Bast. Americans of scent treasured as priceless by Catherine di Medici and other medieval royalties--so we ar ( e told by the head chemist of a perfume laboratory here. Queen Catherine's official perfumer held many secrets of a most I io ?f d garden. at the same time appealing in like the peel--strong, pleasantly' P^fer the more delicate and spir- some way--suggestive of fresh summer fields, of the subtle, Ian- _ . , , . . ,, guorous orient or of the old-fash- ia S ingredient, giving the fresh fume is more -widely used now scent of new mown hay. \ than ever in history. When Louis pungent. Cumarin powder from itual scents. Holland is another pleasant smell-! The chemist tells ue that per- has) concocted admit no visitors, but a ex- j big "factory to family" plant hem i agreed i~fi*micrl to show the reporter through its perlume section. The Jiead chemist of the de- Perfume With a Punch. . j XV demanded a new perfume But the climax of the smelling iginated specially for him' each tour is not reached. The head day, and farther back, when Greek chemist picks up a cow horn, such. aristocrats bathed in violet as.' the pioneers once gun powder. There is used tor j ed fountains, and Rome tried a leather. mal£ e l»ws to keep her wealthy cognition than he does in Europe. P°uch fastened over the top. This men from anaointing themselves In r o d u c l l n **** he cautiously removes, warning. three times a day and using dif! name and he is regarded with the the visitor to inhale with discrc- j ferent perfumes on different parts ! same respect as the crealors of tion. It is a timely warning for | of the body--in all those times-I beautiful clothes. In this country the scent so carefully packed for. perfume was the most precious ipartment let the wa through | tn manufactur;n e nrm takes the shipping is that of civet from the \ possession of the patrician class, -ftf\f\ft-,mt t v»v«v**A*l4- iHvitl* ·4Trt*fti4k« e*i-iA*»l-« 1 TM . . . . . . . . _ ' A *,JPt- «O. ·w.. n «l* » « « I F M « A «J] *»· rooms fragrant with flower scents atj c e i l i n S an i end in cPteots labeled ' rose, hyancinth, jasmine, and so limelight. The master perfumer .~ _ _ . , , - . _ ., ; *tn»^ii*fei.*v- j. *JCr *i*«« 4»^*ii*tiAxA where huge rollmg tanks hold the be tto legs a ffiaster but he essences. Pipes run along the , remaias unknown . the and; In The Raw Materials. _ , . . ! + * * o n e corner o f tin. perfume on. To mis a perfume for hot-; depaitment of tnis plant 3s the tling, a tank is rolled up and the gteel door o£ a wult The head desired spigots are turned on. chemfet SWUng . open the heavy But perfume-making is not so ; door and stepped into a fairly easy as this might lead you to ; i ar g e room. Here, he explained, civet cat--a smell well known for A. gift of- myrrh, spikenard, or its nauseating potency. Northern' alaes was a princely offering. Africa contributes this delicacy to cla y perfume is within reach of tlie perfumer, sending it in horns like the one described. This is [ the most powerful odor of the entire collection, even outranking, musk which is seen and emelled nearby. Musk, from the musk-deer, has practically everyone. As generally as it is used, there are things about perfume that people do not always understand. is that a perfume is four times strong as a toilet water. The latter may be sprayed without much think. Other processes first refine j are" stored a quarter of a 'million the appearance of a dark brown clanger of turning oneself the natural essences, and long be- · dollars worth of the imported in- pod and smells damp and musty walking flower garden, fore quantities of any perfume can gredients -which go to make fine with a faint suggestion of old f u me should be dispensed Dela- be . mixed, the formula must be , perfumes. Shelves and tables are it Holstein-Friesian low- record an to days. seven the production THis Norwalk. and association O. " Pain»taWi«ly evolved in the Irtor- master perfumer. This ; the most important se- i where loaded with large glass bottles, cans with Chinese labels, foreign- looking kettles and canisters, and crets ot" the business are guard- i great stone crocks. ed. A formula for a successful or promising perfume is as valuable as a state paper. If other firms should learn the ingredients and proportions of the formula, the work of many laboratory experi- i ents necessary to produce it would be a loss. The to master perfumer is an ar- suggestion of old fume should be dispensed less leather in its bouquet. The value generously. Its scent is far more of the dingy brown musk pods is Concentrated and lasting. A in direct contrast to their esthetic or two ia sufficient, appeal. The pods are bought Another fact that perfume-users through a French bank. Special m 'S nt remember to advantage in Turning on the lights, the chemist went the rounds of the shelves, showing how the different natural essences look when they are shipped from the foreign manu- messengers carry small bags, each $5,000. Musk brings $500 a pound. "Most people," the chemist ex- the musk in selecting essences is that worth perhaps odors are what is known as some Violet is one of these. A 'dry cannot be judged satisfactorily ..,,.,.,,_ . ,.,,_,,,, plained, "have no idea that these from the bottle - ll should . be facturers, before they are refined, heavy animal "odors play an fan- sprayed or dropped on something ' Blias Howe, in 1S44, first completely developed il'e lock stitcii tewing machine. NEVER WANTS ANYTHING ELSE The season of cough.-, colds, croup and bronchial troubles is at hand. Every mother will be interested in this letter !rom Mrs. E. K. Olson, 1917 Ohio Ave., Superior, Wis.: "I never want anything else than Foley'c, Honey and Tar. 1 used it for all my children and also for my grandchild " Sold every where. tf t The and also allowing the visitor the interesting if not always delectable privilege oi smelling the heavily concentrated odore. Violet, for example, when imported from southern France, is a greenish, lardlike mass. The essence has been extracted overseas by pouring large quantities of petals into a u mixture of melted beef suet and purified lard. This is stirred with a wooden paddle and allowed to stand several days I until the fat has absorbed the flowers' fragrance. Then the mass is strained and cooled until it congeals. Eagerly you bend over tlie jar ot greenish stuff when the top is lilted, expecting to catcll a heavenly whiff of pure violet, but the scent which arises is more like, green soap, and not very healthy soap at that. The essense is so strong that it seems to bear no relation to the delicate perfume which it eventually becomes. Attar of roses, too, is here in the form of a liquid essence. This portant part in almost every per- and allowed to dry. In fact, almost fume. The public thinks that rose perfume is a single odor. As a matter of lact, a rose preparation any perfume can be better pronounced upon in this way, as sniff at one bottle of strong es- would probablv include not onlv sense is apt to paralyze the olfac- the delicate floral essence, but an tor y seuse ' ancl aftei " that tte *»"- oil-sandalwood. or patchouli-to chasw can scarcely judge of the round it out and give it bouquet, otlleii samples offered, and then one of the heavies, such as musk, civet, or Ambergris for «J«- a, fixative. · | "The complete perfume may be ' AUTO MOTES compared to a musical composi- tion with the animal odors for un- , Insurance authorities say only dertones in the bass clef, and the between one-fourth and one-third floral essences for the melody in of the automobiles in the country the treble. Odors have different are protected. tonal value?. Oeitain ones blenO, j More than 500 motor ears, val- and if combined in balanced pro- j ued at $2,500.000, were stolen portions there is harmony. Other- ] Manhattan and the Bronx, wise there may be discord of , York, in the last sis montks. scent just as violent as any discord in music. "There aie two kinds of perfumes. There are the perfumes that represent eome particular flower, and there are the composites or bouquets which contain sometimes 40 different odora gath- Chicago police charge 80 per cent of the automobiles stolen ihat city are taken with the knowl edge and consent of the owners. Present day chemical ors have been found unsafe in fires.

Clipped from
  1. Iowa City Press-Citizen,
  2. 10 Oct 1921, Mon,
  3. Page 5

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