Daily Independent Journal from San Rafael, California • Page 45

Ml6 June 24, 1972 Eating Your Way Through Europe Continued from Page MU original. not. All the dishes are In Paris, UPI correspondent Alex Frere points to a bargain in a city where even a decade ago a hamburger in a drug store cost $3. Says Frere: Chez Pierre (60 Hue St. Lazare.

Phone 874-5876). Cost is $14.50 (80 francs) for a dinner for two. Bottle of the house Chentefleur, $2 (9.50 francs) and white Gaillae $1.35 (6.50 francs). Personally recommended dishes are filets de sole fillets of sole in pastry boats full of duxelles (a mushroom pau- piettes de veau (rolled, stuffed veal). The Restaurant is very good and very simple and in central Paris it gives best possible value for money.

In Brussels, (8-10 Rue Dominicains. Phone 112303) possibly offers the set- meal bargain of the year. For $3 (115 Belgian francs) the diner gets one of the best green vegetable soups native to northern Europe, a choice of such starters as a fondue fromage (deep-fried cheese and tomato- sauce) chicken croquettes combination, a main course such as an entrecote steak, dessert such as praline aux amandes (nuts, ice cream, whipped cream, calories). Moules (mussels) are a seasonal Belgian specialty of special value. The restaurant is so crowded it refuses to take reservations, reluctantly holding a table once only for astronauts.

OTHER 1972 suggestions, city by city: Amsterdam Willem Vuur says his favorite is the Dikker en Thijs (Prinsengracht 444, Phone 020-67721) which runs about $25 for dinner and wine for two. The food would be, for example, grapefruit cocktail with sherry, veal cutlet cordon bleu (layered with ham and cheese), hazelnut parfait with the excellent house wine about $7 a bottle. Diners favoring it include Zsa Zsa, Bernstein, James Mason. House (Rue Mexique. Phone 349-2(15) is the favorite of resident correspondent Gerard Loughran.

He reports, an Austrian pension run by Hans Maschek, an old hand in the Arab world. An average meal for two rarely will cost more than $8 (24 Lebanese pounds). Specialities include fresh or smoked trout from the mountain village of Anjar, roast suckling pig with sauerkraut and often such items as roast boar from Czechoslovakia. The atmosphere is Austrian, intimate. West the end of World War II Russian troops stabled horses in the baroque room of Gute Stube (Kurfuerstendamm 14, Phone: 881-7101), but the old restaurant, once the favorite of officer corps, is back- offering dinner for two from $8.50 to $12.50 (27 to 40 marks).

UPI's Joseph B. Fleming gives his nod to regragout in sahne mil chempignon (ven- sion stew in cream sauce with mushrooms). The sidewalk terrace offers one of the better views of West main street. A and favorite, is famed for its pre-meal champagne cocktails. Charles W.

Ridley, stationed here, says his favorite is the Weinkrueger (610 Mauspfad, Phone: 635-403), cool, wood-paneled, 200 years old and situated in a tiny street off the main square. Something of a classic Rhine wine establishment. Meal for two costs about $8 (25 marks), with wine about $3 (10 marks) a bottle. Rhineland sauerbraten (marinated beef in thick fruity sauce) with potato dumplings, a specialty. eaters are pointed by James Ward to Fiskerestaurant (Strand 38, Phone 158-915).

Jim would suggest a main dish of tout de and fried plaice with hollandaise and lobster sauce plus shrimp, lobster, rice and vegetables. All for $5 (36 kroner). Fish is fresh from the sea. Closed Sundays. All prices include tips.

Dublin Donal says all eyes will smile in the Olde Hob (68 Lower Leeson Phone 64-745) where about $12 should cover food, house wine and tip. Donal suggests the fried Dublin Bay scampi and possibly the best applie pie a la mode in Europe. late Winston Churchill's chef, Henri Piquet, is at 72 holding forth in the Cafe du Grand Casino (Rue Plantation 19. Phone 322-815) with what John A. Callcott calls one of the and most in a city regarded as a gourmet capital.

Meal for two is about $6, plus $3 for a liter of house- wine. The Ostend sole arrives fresh Tuesday and Friday and makes this one of the few landlocked restaurants of Europe to serve absolutely fresh sole. Also excellent is the filet mignon of pork in a cream- based sauce with mushrooms and cognac. Wellington Long selects the Austern-Keller (Jungfernsfieg 34, Phone 346-265). Price for two about $12 (40 marks), plus $6 for a bottle of Mosel wine.

Menu specialties include forelle Florentine (trout in cheese sauce) and lobster. President Urho K. Kekkonen is among the frequent diners at Motti (Toeoe- loenkatu 2, Phone 494-418). Meal for two costs about $10. The Finnish palate is a bit more adventuresome than some.

But, go on, try the kidney flambue with buttered toast. And no visit could be complete without pate of reindeer tongue in aspic, says Bjoern Hoeijer. Sea Dolphin Restaurant (corner ofEl-Rashid and AzZarha Streets, phone; 82788) was the first joint Jewish- Arab venture in East Jerusalem after the 1967 Middle East FINLAND ISN exactly the country that comes first to mind when you think about good eating. But Helsinki does offer some excellent fare not only the native dishes (anyone for reindeer but also international cuisine. For example: this new gourmet Japanese restaurant, where the waitresses are Japanese girls, attired in Komono and obi, who are working to help pay their way through Helsinki University.

Decor is strictly Oriental, with bamboo curtains, teakwood tables and paper lanterns, and patrons dine, Japanese style, while sitting on the floor. War. A Jewish fish dealer and an Arab with an empty store produced the restaurant, catching, cooking and serving their fish. A favorite of both Arabs and Jews, including members of Premier Golda cabinet, the Sea Dolphin offers a meal for two for about $9.50 (40 Israeli pounds). Kenneth Lucoff recommends the shrimp baked in cheese and wine sauce for a starter, followed perhaps by the sole with almonds, dates and orange juice laced with Arak, a Pernodlike liquor.

Ken suggests for dessert the creme Bavaria. Avis Restaurant (1 Rua Serpa Pinto, Phone 328391) belongs in style to the 19th Century but, says Laurence Meredith, should be treasured by 20th Century stomachs. Meal for two averages about $22 (600 escudos) but watch of the ala carte items can skyrocket the bill. For value, Meredith suggests stick to Protuguese wine, a first grade bottle should cost no more than $2.20 (70 escudos). Specialties include the pork cubes sauteed with baby clams (carne de porco Cateplana).

The clams come in their shells and the pork in a sauce that is the secret. LONDON (besides shows further evidence of its emergence from the culinary dark ages into kitchen leadership. The White Tower (1 Percy Street, Phone 636-8141) is a Greek-Cypriot restaurant listed by many gourmets as perhaps one of the finest restaurants. The pates are Middle Eastern and Mediterranean and magnificent. Owner John Stace presides over a restaurant featuring better Greek dishes than are available in Greece and perhaps the finest roast duck (served only just after 8 P.M.) in the world.

Book far in advance and figure' $12 (five pounds) a person. Royalty dines here. Luxembourg the French cuisine meets the German appetite. The choice of Richard C. Longworth is the Restaurant du Commerce (13 Place Darmes, beside the bandstand in the cobbled heart of the city.

Phone 26-930). In plain but cheeful surroundings, visitors dine well on such as Alsatian snails ($4.40 a dozen) or fresh asparagus wrapped in paper-thin Alsatian ham Usually crowded, so phone for reservations. Peter Ueber- sax plumps for Casa Paco (CaJIe Puerta Cerrada II, in the old city. Phone 266-3166). Seats 70, so reserve.

A meal for two will cost about $11 (700 pesetas) plus very inexpensive house wine. If you do not like steak, do not go. is the champion in a steak-eating city. David Nagy advises, best Moscow restaurant can seem like the worst on any given That said, the following two choices: (1) The Berlin (Ulitsa va 3. in central Hotel Berlin.

Phone 221-0477). A specialty is the filet Berlin, for $1.98 (rubles 1.64) steak fried and placed on fried bread and smeared with chicken liver pate and bathed in madeira sauce. The restaurant is most baroque, red plush, mirrored ceilings, gilded cupids and all. (2) The National restaurant (Ulitsa Gorkovo), Phone Phone 203-6539) is across the street from the Kremlin (good window seat view), and the food remains above Moscow standard. Suggested is the schnitzel po Moskovsky (schnitzel a la Moscow) chicken filet rolled in bread crumbs, dipped in egg yolk and pan fried, then served with apples baked in thick pancake batter.

Price $2.02 (rubles 1.67). Stanley Parker suggests Humplmayr (Max- imiliansplatz 16, Phone; 220- 447). one of the German world's boasts. Meal minus wine about $14 (45 marks). Try the lobster cooked in champagne, or the roast duck.

Stockholm The Cat tel in (Storkyrkobrinken 9. in the old town. Phone: 201-818), is the choice of Ian Westergren, and a favorite also of Premier, Olof Palme. Meals run from $6 (30 kronor) up. Fish is the thing and the sole-cooked a dozen ways is it.

Adventurers might try the pickled raw Baltic herring in mustard sauce. Hotel Restaurant (4 Philharmoniker- stlasse, Phone: 525-575) of course, says UPI's John Lawton. Meal for two will cost about $18 plus about $4 for house wine. The boiled beef, the half-boned baked chicken, the Sacher Torte, (chocolate cake) have made it as much a Vienna institution as Strauss music, John also suggests the Goesser Bier Klinik (Steindlgasse 4. Phone 633-336) where a meal for two mir.iis wine costs around $9.

Venison steak with sliced dumpling and cranberry sauce f(hirschbraten jnit serviettenk- noedel) is for the gourmet. to Charles W. Bell, when in Rome head for Gigetto Er Pescatore (Via Sant Elia 13, Phone 879311 or 879929. Closed Mondays. For about $10 (6,000 lire) for two minus wine, owner Luigi Lazzaretti offers orate (like led snapper) and spigola (sea bass), both grilled, for then try spaghetti alle vongole (with clam sauce).

(2; La Soffita (Via 1, phone 844-4186, closed Mondays) boasts the alternative to spaghetti-rsca- morza allo kind of stiingy mozzarella cooked on a spit and usually eaten with sausages and salami and toasted bread dosed with salt, pepper and oil. For a main course, try About $10 (6,000 lire) for two..