The Philadelphia Times from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania • Page 19

SUNDAY MOBXING. 3 TjHE TIMES SUNDAY SPECIAL OCTOBER 7, 1894. 19 his head and baa a front piece that can raised and lowered to conceal his face. 1 AMERICAN GIRLS TOREADOR HATS SEEN ML HARRIED TO JAPS QUEEN YIGTOEIA'S BOOK OF DOLLS HER MAJESTY'S JUVENILE COLLECTION DESCRIBED WITH COLORED PLATES. courtiers that evidently were arranged around the figure of tbe Kine are faithful copies from pictures that are still in et-ence.

They wear knee breeches and fcng stockings and leather pumps, which are jHed by diminutive ribbons. Sot the least interestingamong the number is tbe furore of Madame MontanarL Who at EASTERN ARISTOCRATS WHO HAVE THEIR REVIVAL IS BOTH UNIVERSAL AND WELCOME. WON OUR MAIDENS' HEARTS. that period was a famous manufacturer of P53 land Yard detectives have, in consequence of the numerous complaints received about these daring robberies, been especially told off for duty in tbe viciuity of Oxford Cirrus. This reckless display of a valuable article of jewelry on tbe street seems to me vulgarly ostentatious as well as no necessarily cruel to the thonsands of poor wretches to whom tbe glitter of tbe gilded bauble must act as a goad toward frenzy.

Here is fashion's forecast for the winter season: 1 Blue the leading color. Skirts plain, but appreciably fuller. No perceptible difference in sleeves as regards size. The Bishop style to be the favorite shape. Caracule the popular fnr.

Mantles and coats a good deal shorter than last winter. Coarse rrepon the moat popular material for smart dresses. Bodices as complex and heavily trimmed as ever. Cut steel buttons, buckles, brooches and pins to be more fashionable than jet ornaments on gowns and bonnets. SKIRTS GROWING WIDER TREATED WITH HIGH HONOR SHOWS PAEDONABLE The Han Milliner Who Trims All His Own Cultivated and Wealthy Women Have Sur rendered Their Hearts to the Pleading Bonnets A Foolish Habit of Wearing Officially reported, after elaborate com-' petitive tests made under authority of Congress by the Chief Chemist of the United States Agricultural Department, Superior to all other Baking Powders in Leavening Strength.

The Handiwork of the Yonng Princess Remains to This Day a Testimonial of Her Industry and Her Historical Knowledge. Her Accuracy in Costumes. of Noblemen of tbe land of the Mikado. Watches Sere Gowns of Recent Blake. Some Theatrical Gossip.

The Equals of Their Husbands. fancy dolls in Loudon, ine oeenrjas dressed this lady in a unique attire that is covered with little figures of dolls cut from different colored silk. A footnote referring to this character quotes the report made by the managers of tbe Crystal Palace Exhibition concerning the exhibit made by Madame Montanari and which says It consists of a series of dolls representing all ages from infancy to womanhood, arranged in several family groups, with suitable and elegant furniture. These dolls have the hair, eyelashes and eyelids separately Inserted in the wax and are in all respects modeled with life-tike expressions. The dresses worn by tbe different dolls are particularly commended for their faithfulness to historical accuracy and for the neatness and good taste with which they are made." It is interesting, even at this late day, to record the fact that these dreasefl were made by her Majesty, but that it was never divulged until the Queen cbose to announce it It 4t 4t Marriage of American or European women From a Correspondent of The Time.

London, September 22. I Queen Victoria is about to add to her fame as a possessor of the maternal instinct, if not to her reputation as an authoress, by the publication of a new work which will at least have the flavor of originality. We all read. Tbe revival of the "Toreador" hat is as with Japanese has been not Infrequent, and as a rule such unions have resulted very happily. The Japanese seem to be more universal as it is welcome, and examples of ABSOLUTELY PURE.

compatible with other races of the West than any other Oriental people, and marriage with about a year apo, of the house cleaning that took place at Buckingham Palace, and that I am authoritatively informed that the rumor that Miss Pbilippa Fawcett was about to begin a business career as a civil engineer is entirely false. Miss Fawcett, it will be remembered, was the yonng lady who a couple of years ago was celebrated throughout the. civilized world as The Lady Senior Wrang this uncommonly becoming shape are seen in all tbe smart milliners' establishments- Very smart-looking and jaunty tbey are, too, the bright color which baa become so much a feature of modern headgear being supplied by a them is looked upon with, to say the least, more tolerance. which particularly interested us in connection While the eyes of the American people with the event was the discovery in tbe gar herself in this forthcoming worK. A number of ideal subjects merely suggest The most Careful Housewife will use no other.

ret of that gloomy residence of a forgotten ler," th'e highest mathematical and scientific have been gazing with minaled feelings at the exodus of girls who have married into the the nobility of Europe, a few foreigners have ive of the peculiarities of different countries chest containing the precious relics of her Majesty's youth. Amon these, and what attracted universal attention, were a number accepted Japanese husbands, and we seldom honor that can be awarded at Cambridge. Miss Fawcett is at present mathematical lecturer at Newnbam College (the English Vassar). She ii a daughter of the late Professor Fawcett, for a time Postmaster Gen hear about them except in tbe social comma are shown, among them several Swiss attires and quite a variety of Italian costumes in fact, the Italian figures are so numerous as to create the idea that even at that early age ROYAL BAKING POWDER 1M WALL NEW-YORK. of dolls that the Queen at once recognized as having been among the most treasured play nities from which they were taken and from the comparatively few Americans who travel in Japan.

But the intermarriage of Japanese things of ber earlier years. She had dressed eral. Her mother is a famous woman doctor. her Majesty's leaning in tbe direction of The "new woman" has, (fortunately for gentlemen with foreign women is no longer a them herself and in several instances she bad actually made the figure of a doll with the greatest nicety from papier mac he and had put bandeau folded like a handkerchief such as the matadors and toreadors really wear, in color to match either one or all three of tbe pompons. Thus a black hat had such a bandeau in deep reddish -orange, while at the side of the brim were two bright yellow pompons and one of deep tone like the kerchief-shaped bandeau.

Another bat was dark green, with a scarlet bandeau and two black and one bright red pompons. They both looked very nice, although the style seems more consistent with the dark Southern style of beauty than that of the blonde ladies of the North. Speaking of bonnets, I paid a visit to tbe man milliner one day last week. This enterprising young man designs, trims and actually makes all the bonnets aud hats appearing in social experiment. the human race a good many detractors.

At the present moment, when she is so assertive, it is interesting to now what some of the ordinary women think of her. The editor of the BUYING APPLES IN MAINE. upon It tbe regulation china head. She had a large number of gowns, fans, bonnets, gloves and other treasures of feminine apparel dear to a fashionable woman's heart Outside the immediate court circle the most prominent woman in the social affairs (gentlewoman, having invited bis readers to Many paragraphs appeared in the papers at tbe time concerning these little reminiscenses of Japan is Viscountess Aoki. the wife of made.

In Paris? No. In practical, prosaic Berlin, This was verv unfortunate, as the give an epigrammatic definition of the genus, publishes the result this week. She is vari of her girlhood, and periodically since then the present Japanese Minister in Berlin and formerly the Minister of Foreign Affairs in the Japanese Cabinet. Viscountess Aoki is they have been referred to in the Eng ously described as "A fresh darn on the original blue stocking" (which definition received the prize), "The old maid trying to lish papers, have been copied in the foreign dresses, while material and cost were all that could be desired, totally lacked that unde-fl liable something called chic, style or whatever you please. The Empress struggled heroically in her resolutiou to think the imported abominations beautiful and be com ine.

of German birth and is a personal friend of press and have given other indications of be tbe young man," "hex of one and half a having touched the universal sentiment that dozen of the other," "A creature of opinions the Emperor William. She is small in stature, with fair hair, a slight and extremely Italy was marked, a leaning that of latter years has been given evidence in her frequent visits and her sojourns in that delightful country. An important feature of tbe fitting of these dolls Is the arrangement of their hair. Each is provided with a vast quantity of flaxen or ebon locks, and the Queen's nimble fingers have arranged a headdress in every instance in such a way as to be thoroughly characteristic of the nationality portrayed. The Russian costume is selected from the higher life of the people und is enriched with gems, while tbe headdress is made' of strings of pearls rising to a considerable height and having a background of the finest lace foiling over tbe shoulders of tbe figure.

The doll that personates tbe male Russian bears a strong likeness to the then Czar and is clothed in tbe dazzling uniform of white broadcloth plentifully provided with gold lace and gold cords, a very small sword suspended at the left side and the showy hat of the com his establishment In Oxford street, and is is said to make the whole world kin. and the ladies of the court bad, of course, to rather a curiosity in his way, I was inquir graceful figure, with very quiet though pleas decided and skirts divided." "One who has ceased to be a lady and has not yet attained to be a gentleman." "Tbe unsexed section This seems to have appealed to her Majesty's sentiment as well, and so she has, as ing if he experienced any effect from the cru ing manners, and an entertainer of the rarest take their cue from her. The result was that a former flutterine bevv of bewitcbJoelv sade that is being waged so vigorously here is modestly announced by the chroniclers of arrayed Japanese butterflies in their eccentric accomplishments. Whilo her husband was Minister of Foreign and in America against tbe use of birds and nut charmingly picturesque garments, were royal gossip, permitted the preparation of a volume which bears the title of Queen Vic os preys as trimmings. He told me that many of his customers made it a stipulation that transformed into tedious looking grotesque cocoons of a decidedly Dutchy type.

Affairs the Aoki dinners and balls were by toria Dolls, and which is to appear ostensr far tbe most pleasant features of the Japanese It Needs a Sharp and Clever Man to Detect Tricks of Trade. From the Lewlston Journal. "The apple buyers have to be fellows wbo can see through a millstone," says one of the Mains fraternity. "We do not often get taken In, for there's a sort of mental telegraphy that tells us when to Investigate, and that's wbat I mean by 'seeing tbrougb a I was taken In once, thoueb, by a man wbo brought seventeen barrels a dozen miles and looked me calmly In the eyes as be assured me quietly they were all Al In size and quality. 1 looked one barrel all through, and as tbey were all right my mentul alarm bell remained quiet So I paid him a first-class price and ne went off with bis money.

In lesB than ten minutes, having occasion to move one of tbe other barrels, a loose beading dropped out and tbe contents rolled upon the floor, displaying as mean a piece of deaconing as ft was ever my lot to see. There were good apples at the ends, but the middle purt was good for nothing. I examined the other barrels and found every one except that I looked turoush al first a rank fraud. I went for the seller before he hud time to leave town and made bim payback the money and take his apples home with him. You can bet I notified all tbe other buyers In that part of Maine, and now tbat man ean't sell a peck of potatoes without Us being well looked over beforehand." hly as the literary composition of Miss Frances But the hour of repentance soon came and pith it a radical change.

The Empress real-feed, as her looking-glass whispered it. that season. When Count Okuma was Ministerof the winged creatures that adorn their hats must be "made up," not real birds; while the objection to the nso of the osprcy was H. Low, but which, it is understood by those in the inner circles of court confidence, has frequent. "But," (and here came in the she is not nearly so fetching in an ill-fitting ffown of German make as she is in her native costume of quaint cut and singing with its rich harmonies of skilfully blended color been written almost entirely by the Queen herself.

Hiss Low is an accomplished and mander-in-chief of the Russian army. This brutal masculine touch I) "I must say that the majority of ladies who object to the use figure is also distinguished by a pair of tall brilliant young lady, sister of the editor of boots, reaching to the knees and made of of genuine specimens of the feathered tribe the St. James Gazette. some coated leather bearing a high gloss. effects.

The European fashions have been tried and found wanting, and in the future the Japanese belle can be daring and as The French doll is the typical figure that upon their headgear are either maiden ladies of uncertain age or elderly dowagers who of the sex." "Man's newest and best reason for remaining single," Madam become Adam." "A fast sailing craft sailing near the wind and carrying no ballast," "An old dish with new seasoning," "Maonishness minus manliness." I heard a quaint story recently, that illustrated very powerfully the fact that there are yet "ordeals by fire "going on in the world. The town of Withernsea, on the English sea const, wsb the scene of a strange ceremony. During the week a party of gipsies bad taken up their residence on a piece of ground near the promenade, and one of their number, known as "Fiddler Jack Young," died. He was buried in the graveyard of the parish church, and excitement was caused by the rumor that the effects of the deceased man would be publicly burnt This actually Uok place at tho camp. Fire was set to the wagon which had belonged to Young, and which was worth 40 when new.

When it was in flames the dead man's clothes, bedding, with a Bet of china and his fiddle were thrown into the burning mass and consumed. The exciting ceremony was witnessed by a large crowd of visitors. Young leaves a widow, and by the destruction of bis prop stunningly fantastic in her costume as she possess fat pugs! pleases without incurring royal displeasure. we are all familiar with of Napoleon Bonaparte, and tbe facial expression is admirably carried out, while the rotund figure of the French Emperor is clothed in tbe well-known With a shrewdness that speaks well for the newspaper talent of her Majesty, she only permitted a small portion of these dolls to be described in the papers at the time of their An evening wrap being prepared for that THE SPEED OP TROLLEY CARS. handsome actress, Miss Alma Stanley, who is playing so successfully the role of the ad Foreign Affairs Viscount Aoki was the Vice Minister, and it fell to the Viscountess going into a new and official residence to furnish it for the government This she succeeded so well in doing, and her efforts were so greatly admired, that when Okuma bad a dynamite bomb exploded under his carriage, through which mishap he lost a leg aud was forced to give up h.d portfolio, and the office devolved upon Aoki, Viscountess Aoki refused to give un tbe Vice Minister's house and go into tbe Minister's official residence, bnt installed the bachelor Vice Minister there.

She is, to make a dangerous guess, nearly 40 years olJ. Her dresses all come from the best Paris makers, and from the number of them sbe wears it is well that her husband has large personal estates to draw upon. They have only one child little Hana whose beauty would be difficult to describe better than by saying it is of the typical Neapolitan class. If as a young woman she retains the beauty and grace she possesses as child she is destined to be one of the most beautiful women in the world. cutaway coat and white knee-breeches, and wears tbe famous three-cornered hat There are also dolls representing Empress Josephine and Maria Louise, and with a keen sense of humor the Queen has pinned to one of the The Peculiar "Pnrrlngr" Sound of the venturess in tbe new Drury Lane melodrama, is of pale blue miroir velvet with a yoke and Motor Explained.

high collar of magnificent Russian sable, the From Cassler's Magazine. dresses of Josephine a memorandum that she could only spare the time to give one of tlifi several hundred costumes possessed by this The speed of a trolley car when passing any whole garment being lined with ermine. Long wraps will be all the fashion, and in winter they are by far the more sensible. given point bas been a matter upon the de remaritaDie lauy. termination of which a good deal of discus One being built for a well-known Duchess is Spanked by Lightning.

Prom the Chicago Post Klebard Cole, the 7-year-old son of Albert Cols, 1523 Walnut street, Helena, Mont, did not go to Sunday Bchool the other afternoon. It was not his fault, for, with the assistance of bis mother, be was getting ready to go as fast as he could when Providence, or somebody or something else, Interfered, and all at once stopped Klebard and plans. The lad was sion has been expended. To put a revolution counter upon the axle would solve tbe prob in nearl-grav miroir velvet, and it is lined It iB a noticeable fact that in the entire number the Queen has not reproduced any of throughout with satin to mutch, and has a square yoke, sleeves and collar of lovely lem, but it ts frequently desirable to ascertain tbe speed of a car without tbe assistance of a erty she is left practically penniless. The custom of the burning of the effects is said to have been established to prevent wrangles discovery, but this forthcoming book will contain a complete description of the entire number, and elaborate colored plates are completed, showing the dress with which the youthful ruler clothed hor inanimate babes, and giving the actual colors and semblance of the texture in the materials that she used.

In the opening of the volume her Majesty has written an entertaining preface in which she calls attention to the fact that dolls have been favorite toys among the people of the world since the earliest times and that the child of the African savage and the youngsters that roll about the ice drifts of the far North take equal pleasure in the fondling and adornment of these wooden objects as does the most carefully nurtured heiress to England's most exalted peerage or as does the child of any reigning house in Europe. There is much new information given in this preface, which shows that the Queen has the many famous actresses of the time, nor has she given us a glimpse of tho methods streetcar company. Particularly is this desirable when seeking evidence that the cars are being run at a higher rate of speed than then in vogue of dressing on the stage. The over the property that is left, and in order that the widow should not be wooed for what she might possess. Tbe triumph of mind Mowed by law.

nearest approach to anything dramatic or theatrical is a group composed of Shakepieare over matter is evidently a necessary portion It is well known that the motor gives forth peculiar sound when tbe car Is runolne. of this ftomadic tribe education, and cer and Ann Hathaway, the former being an evident copy of the well-known picture of tainly of the tribe's widows. A. M. L.

This sound Wblttler In bis poem on "The bending over a trunk, getting out a pair of shoes, when a bolt of lightning struck the bouse, entered the room aud struck him In tbe small of the back and ran downward. Richard set up a yell, aud bis very much frightened mother rushed in and picked him up. The firt thing the lad did was to ask who It was tbat shot htm." The lad's trousers were a complete wreck, having been torn to pieces at the place which was to bave occupied tbe bench at Sunday school, but strange to say, be himself was not very much hurt Shakespeare that hangs in bis bouse at Strat jsroomsticic Train" likened to the purring of witch's cat, and It Is In this purring Bound ford and which differs in dress, to some de IT PAYS TU BR A KICKER. that tbe speed Indication lies. Whenever a gree, from all the other pictures that are shown of him.

The representation of An umber of blows or taps are delivered In reg-lar sequence they will. If their trenuencv be The Man Who Kicks Generally Gets sable. Sealskin seems likely to have a turn again this winter. A smart little garment, but essentially for autumn wear, is an Eton jacket of sealskin, without sleeves. That skirts are perceptibly increasing their width is an undoubted fact, and at many smart French watering places as many as twelve plaits have been seen, not alone at the back, but at the sides.

The effect cannot be said to be pretty or graceful, and it may possibly remain distinctly a French fashion. Many things are liked and taken to over there that are only worn bore a few times by a small minority of women and which cannot honestly be said ever to become a fashion-As to the crinoline, the cry of its coming is heard persistently, probably to suit someone who has a large stock of material for making them or of the monstrosities themselves on hand. The serge gowns of recent make are easilv I Hathaway has nothing distinctive about it, the Best of Everything. great enough, form a mimical not. The reason for Lhls is that the ear cannot rid itself of as there was nothing distinctive in her ap From the Chicago Record.

Aoki's lieutenant in political action is Mr. Akabane, wbo bas distinguished himself as a young diplomat of marked ability and who has also distinguished bis American diplomatic career by marrying Miss Barry, of Baltimore. When Mr. Mutzu, who several years ago was the Japanese Minister to the United States, departed from Washington Mr. Akabane was left as Charge d' Affaires.

He met Miss Barry there, and, after a year's courtship, married her. They went to Tokio on their wedding trip, and In a few months he was made private secretary to Minister Aoki. When Aoki went to Berlin Akabane returned so Washington, where Mrs. Akabane was a prominent figure and often noticed in the press accounts of the functions at the Japanese Legation. Afterwards they followed the Aokis to Berlin, where Mr.

Akabane was Secretary of Legation. Mrs. Akabane is also of short stature, and of the plump, American type of pretty brunette, which reminds us sometimes of our French pearance to call attention to, but her Majesty has written the name upon her clothing, so It pays to be a kicker." It Is tbe man who kicks and demands to bt shown tbe chart that there may be no doubt of her identifica who gets tbe best seats Id the theatre, while tbe meek, unresisting man who simply goes tion. Literatu re has been recognized in the one sound before another reaches It; consequently when tbe number of notes rue above a certain number per second a musical note Is the result. The eye possesses a similar faculty called persistence of vision," which makes the firebrand give an apparently continuous circle of lire when whirled swiftly about.

About one-sixttetb of a second is said to be the limit of persistence of vibIou, and thirty-sound person 01 its most distinctive representative. up and passes in bis money Is placed at tbe Items From Blllvllle. From the AUnnta Constitution. If the equinoctial gale Just moves our bouse into the next county we'll get rid of a year's rent Our Signal Service man bas left town. He made It rain when tbe circus came, and we sent In his resignation for him.

Tbe English committee refuses to come to Blllville. It la well. We will need all the rope we bave for plough Hues next spring. rear of the parquet circle behind a post. Tbe "klcfcer" always gets clothes that fit Dr.

Johnson, and his enormous frame and generally dilapidated appearance are very faithfully carried out. These attempts to portray well-known personages of course constitute tbe best portion him because tbe tailor Is afraid to offer him a misfit. But it Is In tbe restaurant that the vibrations per minute are probably the least number which the ear can recognize. Tbe lowest note on a seven-octave piano has about 33 vibrations per second, and middle kicker Is seen at his best. distinguished from those of some months ago of tbe collection, although they are by The other regular patrons of the place were oy extra iuuness round the hem.

Many of about 264. It Is the striking or meshing ot In the babltof comlug tbelr mem are ununea, ana not even a sur lining can come up to the freedom of fold which is ine gear ana pinion teeth which causes tbe "purring" of the street car motor, and If tbe large number in the minority, and the Queen seems not to have been influenced by any special prejudice, nor is there any indication in these people she has selected of the bent taken by her mind in fact, she evidently was DRESS REFORM EMPORIUM maae somownat 01 a study 01 the subjectcon- earning which she writes, and Bhe tells how, among certain uncivilized tribes, the women affect dolls and fill their huts with thorn until they have a living child, when all these lifeless substitutes are buried out of sight. She says: Tbe popularity or tbe Queen's dolls ts characteristic of English tenderness. Our people are not only inspired by a reverence for all that pertains to the tender years of tbelr ruler, but they are particularly amiable In their love tor that which Indicates a home leellngand that which tmggests tbe possen-Mon of a regard for the sacred claims of the family. This feeling ot reaped haa penetrated every UriUsh subject and the traditions of tbe fireside are uppermost In the British mlud at home or abroad.

Following the chronological order of dolls in general, the Queen first shows some that he dressed in the old Flemish costume, and she has used the regulation Dutch dolls for this purpose; they have little, delicately chiseled faces, stout bodies and gracefully turned legs, provided with nicely made stockings and dressed in gaudy colored costumes, in which yellow and red predominate, wear ponderous and clumsy wooden shoes, which latter are the only attributes of their attire that did not come direct from the hands and the industry of the Queen. There are six of these Flemish creatures, four girls and I the result ot an unlined condition. Seree is alwayH more or less coerced by its linings, tone causea oy ine mesning teetn nas a pitch of "middle we know that 204 teeth are meshine per second. Then the number of more Dy unen. sateen, or any Kind ot cot thoroughly impartial and was only prompted teeth being known, also the diameter of the forefathers.

In tho inner court circle one of tbe ladies is Mrs. Sannomiya, of English birth. She is portly woman and decidedly matronly in her looks and demeanor. She is consulted by every Japanese lady of the nobility, from the Empress down, upon all questions of dress etiquette and propriety. Her position as the wife of the MnBter of Ceremonies for the Empress is one full of difficulties in a social way, by the relative importance ot those she imi ton; "less" by silk or satin.

The latter is the best of any, being of a most accommodating character when made in the ben quali tated. Unfortunately she did not find any American that offered attraction sufficient to car wheel, is comparatively easy to calculate the speed of tbe car at the Instant tbe sound observation was made, In spite of all efforts of tbe oompany to prevent the car speed from being known. ties. A good gown worn at the seaside this induce her to make him a part of ber in week was in a soft but firm make of 1029 WALNUT Is the only house In Philadelphia that makes a specialty of the Hy-Klenlc. garments.

You will find there every meritorious garment advertised under the head of Dress lie-form. The Eqiil-pohe Waist Too much cannot oh said In favor of dustry, not even tbe magnificent personality of Washington appealed to her, and one of the most characteristic uniforms that the orders, patiently waiting for tbelr checks and then going away. The "Kicker" would pound on the table If a waiter did not Immediately come forward to serve him. lie was In the habit of sending back dishes that didn't please him. If the coffee wasn't piping hot be would Bend word for the manager to come at once, and to hlra he would offer violent 00m plaint fie upbraided tbe waiters if they weresiow in bringing a napkin, and if, when tie arose to depart, tbere was no waiter at band to give htm tbe check and help him with his coat be rattled a spoon in a cup In order to express bis disapproval.

In these various wavs did be demonstrate his caddlshnesH, vulgarity and Ill-breeding. With wbat result? When be comes Into tbe place the manager meets bim at tbe door to taice his hat, and then makes desperate gestures at the waiters, who are attending upon other customers. When he Is seated at a table a waiter rushes forward to whlRk away lmafflnarv crumbs world has ever known, that of the Continon blue serge, the hem outlined at the very edge with the narrowest possible gold braid set on in a single line. The Eton jacket was bordered with a much wider band, almost an inch in width, but only a line of this appeared on the outside, the rest being turned in to the under part The blouse wis blue tal soldier, is lacking in this otherwise most and yet Mrs. Sannomiya rules over the court so well and so amiably that both Japanese and foreigners look up to her as their natural sponsor.

Mr. Sannomiya, besides being Grand Master of Ceremonies for the Empress, is a political economist, and, it is said, has freer intercourse with tbe Mikado than is en complete collection. The extent of this aggregation of dolls such as to show that her Majesty must cer tainly have devoted considerable time to its joyed by any other Japanese statesman. preparation, and this idea is verified by surah in exactly the same tone of color as the serge, and had evidently been carefully matched to it, and the small and becoming boat-shaped hat was in navy blue felt, with a band of dark blue ribbon round the nmwn THE EQUIPOISE WAIST this popular waist. It Is a perfect aiitn Btltute for the old health destroying corsets.

UNION Of all the foreign ladies wbo have married paragraph in the opening preface which says that for several years "her gracious Majesty found enjoyment in this little world of wood two boys, the latter having the broad trousers and roundabout coats and grotesque-looking Pert Proverbs. From the Chicago Herald. High tariff counts on dependent votes. FooIb In office are doubly useful to cunning men. Those who always flsb close to shore catch no whales.

Tbe class In partisan arithmetic never gets beyond No. There are more bowls fn cut fingers than In pierced vitals. Those tbat help to make the poor are the devil's favorites. Tbere is a world of difference between gratifying and pleasing one's self. The epitaph "Our loss Is bis gain" should be written on more doorplates than tombstones.

Some folks take everything In sight and finally tbelr own lives In the suicidal attempt and carton, and she tendered them with into the aristocracy of Japan, Mrs. Jokichi Tekamlne is perhaps the most interesting. She was a Miss Hitch, a society girl of the Crescent City, and met her future husband hats that are woru in their native country, Apparently the royal cost colt was not satis- solicitude that was half maternal." There and spread fresh napkins over the clean table lied with the ruddy cheeks given these dolls are several dozen of these little objects, and UNDER-FLANNELS In Medium and Rummer Weights, Including CIOIQ. and a quill or two, also blue, stuck iu it. The only relief to the all-pervading blueness was a white handkerchief corner sticking out of a breast pocket, embroidered with sky blue.

The idea of the breast pocket in an Eton coat seemed quite a new one to me and the effect was distinctly good. the ingenuity displayed in dressing them so Tbe manager In tbe meantime is at tbe desk by their manufacturer, and so she has laid on a plentiful supply of red paint, the marks of her brush being clearly di6cernable against Kettlns: a newspaper for the 41 kicker" to read. during the New Orleans Exposition several years ago. where he was Japanese Commissioner. He has always been a high official in the Departmentof Agriculture and Commerce ne comes oactt wun ine newspaper and re- that each one shall retain its individuality and distinctiveness is quite as remarkable as the patience the Queen must have possessed maraa inai 11 is "miner cnniy ouimae.

After the waiter receives the order the man- me wax luces. Recognizing the necessitv that would doubt to accomplish it. and has been decorated by tbe Mikado. He is Wl 11: less come to these young people to change Court mourning is in its second stage this aver goes back to the kitchen with him to see that everything ts done properly. If all other work comes to a dead stop, that order muBt week for the late Comte de Paris, and will called the alchemist by bis Tokio friends, because of bis lifelong study of chemistry, which has resulted in the discovery of an im Kb more.

The man who defends creatures that cannot even thank him may be a crank, but is at the same lime tbe noblest of philanthropists. receive the religious attention or the cook their clothing occasionally, her Majesty furnished them with several outfits, those suitable for everyday wear, others to be used only upon gala occasions, and others still to be worn upon the event of their appearance ine "kicker" has a waiter boverinar near him all tbe time, and occasionally the man end to-morrow week. This fact makes but little real difference iu tbe English court, however, because the Queen is always in mourning, as well as the ladies in immediate proved method of distilling and fermenting spirituous liquors. Mrs. Tekaniine is about ager strolls that way to reinsure himself that mere ts no cause ror an outoreak.

It Is not true tbat "the Income tax taxes tbe few for the many." On the contrary.lt but taxes a few of the many that nave not heretofore been taxed. One of lbs most terrible curses to the Inno When tbe kicker rlne tbe check Is readv. at court. The fashions of the people and of the time are faithfully observed, and it suggests a careful contemplation on the part of attendance upon her, and the royal servants always wear mourning on their liveries. 25 years old, is beautiful, vivacious and the proud mother of two flue boys.

These four unions bave in each case proved very bappy ones, and while in some cases the marriage of Japanese with foreigners may have proved unfortunate, it certainly has not His coat and bat are brought to bim and the cashier smiles upon him and never gives htm a heap of silver in change. Then the manager cent Is the prevailing stupidity on the part of tbe dresser of tbe fashion platos that Flemish Of every desirable description. Abdominal Supporters Shoulder Braces, Eto. Send for Illustrated Catalogue. Mm.

A. A. SMITH 1029 Walnut St. English complexions look their best with a oruiea, wnicn assumes mat. Decause beasts cannot speak they do not feel.

society then took its models from. down 10 mm a ne pussea am. unquestion- setting of black, gray and white, such as aoiy it pays to oea "aicaer. In the arrangement of her English dolls been found so often the case as in marriages of Europeans and Americans. In a few cases halt-mourning affords, and it has often been remarked that in its second stase court HE KNEW HIS A1T.

foreign brides in Japan bave gono to live in Japanese houses and in Japanese style. In TRAPR HARK. mere is much wider scope given ior pretty work and for ingenuity. The various eponhs of English history are shown with considerable cleverness, and Queen Elizabeth in her gorgeous ru ff and her wide-spreading skirts makes a most striking tableau. In fact Elizabeth appears to have been a favorite for And the Policeman Couldn't Clnb Him fact they all insist on doing this at first: af mourning is remarkably becoming.

The Duchess of Sutherland has been winning golden opinions in Scotland, where she has just completed a yachting tour and conference with the spinners and weavers of the terward, more from their husband's preference than their own, they go back to their Out of Lack. From the Detroit Free Press. luff1 HAVE YOU WRINKLES? Knew Achilles Weak Point. From the New York Herald. It was In Boston, and not very long ago, either, at tbat Sbe wasn't pretty, but she was so absolutely exclusive, and quite the proper thing, tbat Mr.

Wall, of York, was not at all surprised when she clasped ber bands and said with a far-off iraze: "Of all the heroes of the Trojan war give me Achilles! He was a man to dream of he was sublime!" "Yes, but be was not very welt heeled at districts she visited along tbe north and west coast of Scotland. Her Grace is much interested in the Scottish Home Industries Association, and it must have been a quaint sight to see hor explaining about fashionahle colors A policeman, who was passing through West Grand Circus Park tbe other day, bad his attention attracted to a man wbo evidently belonged to the "purfesh," and who own ways. Mrs. Oki, a beautiful French girl, who married Commander Oki, of the Japanese navy, still insists upon living a la Japanese. She is a centre of attraction at all court balls.

There Is a daintiness about Japanese home her MajeBty in the matter of dress as she has certainly been in the matter of hanging on to the throne. Elizabeth is represented, in addition to the costumealready suggested, in an elaborate riding habit, such as she so often wore. She is also given in the dress that history tells us she wore upon her famous visit to Kenilworth Castle, and in her romantic interview with Amy Bobsart. There are several Queen Elizabeths iu the collection, and the was looking and down tbe paths as If hop ing to find something ne bad lost and textures to the weather-beaten ld spinners, whose maintenance depend' 'on their pleasing the London world, "freen and 80 kind and thoughtful of too to send me Lost anything?" queried the officer as he Then call and see a woman 65 years old with all tha wrinkles removed from one Bide of the face, and be convinced tbat con remove Wrinkles, Sma'l-pnx Pittinpn, Freckles and aUFncinl Mlemixhesby this wonderful Treatment. me.

May's system. Have atao removed smallpox plttinca from one part of a lady's face. She can be seen any afternoon this week. All work guaranteed and indorsed by physicians. Ladles return inn to the tbat" said the New Yorker, anxious to say something to show be knew what she was life that is very attractive to women of re this little puppy I Ho like you!" blue," remarked the Duchess.

the fa fined artistic tastes, and vat cnmnarativelv cams to a bait. Noap," was the brief reply. taming aoout. He Couldn't Stand It. vorite colors for ladies' tweeds and she illustrated the dietum by wearin a mat nnd "But you appear to be looking for some material employed in making her outfit is of THE? ARE WELL "FIXED." thing little is kmwn of it by outsiders.

The borne is very sacred in Japan and no stranger or foreigner is ever allowed to enter there. Yon may go to their residences and visit certain From the Chicago Post Yep." skirt in a lovely tone of sea-blue, with much gray in it and a suggestion of green. This delicious color in tweed has been recently in A good story is told of Slgnor FolL tbe What the comte de Paris' Family Have The man walked away for a distance of Become Possessed Of. troduced into a Scottish warehouse here. rooms, bnt yon will never be peimitted to set twenty feet and then returned, all the time bent over and carefully scanning every Inch made up into a wrap that has been christened famous basso.

Once upon a time be was singing "The Raft," wben a cblldlsn voice from somewhere Iu the stalls suddenly piped In and attempted to organize an Impromptu from the New York Journal. foot in tbe inner sanctuary. With the Jao- of the ground, and tbe officer asked: anese woman her lord stands first. He takes Tbe Corate de Paris was not stingy, bot wna nuiaghan. i A hulashan is a cape with a hood of exactlv i city sunburned and freckled should try my Turkish Treatment (facia) steaming and massage).

L'heveuline restores gruy hair to Its original color and is not a dve. Manicuring, MISS CLOUD, PARIS TOILET AND MANICURE PARLORS 116 SuUTH THIKTEKNTH HTBKKT. the precedence of relatives and relieion. and what are you looking for, anyway "Wealth." duet Unfortunately tbe next Hue of the song fond of money. His view of his children was that without heaps of money and royal husbands or wives tbelr lot would be "Thought von said you hadn't lost anv- was, What sound Is tbat which she well, next to the servants, the wife is the humblest member of the household.

A Jap takes his bride home to his mother's the fashion worn at present, but I remember seeing one of them at least six years ago, so that the original devisers of it must have i anticipated the fashion. 10 ing. breaks upon mine ear? Tbli so tlckltd the fancy ot tbe great vocalist that he burst Into I nalDu The tramo went prowllnr around nnin. household and from thedav of his wed dine a nearty nt or laughter and left tbe platform. Between tbe dowries be could give and tbe and the nettled officer finally seized bim by importance the courts of Europe attached to she is the slave of hiti mother, his sisters and himself, and of her own children, too.

when The latest craze among ladles of fashion followed bv tbe pianist Twice they came back and attempted the song and finally tbey had to give It up in despair, much to the takes the form of wearing a miniature watch me tirra una eicmimcu "Now, then, I want to know wbat all this fooling around means." "Iknow my gait, and there's no fooline aiuuHeiueDL 01 me auaieuce. the very bnest quality and tbe most expensive. Nor does this rich selection stop at her outer clothing, the same care and minuteness of detail is carried throughout, and the linen that is beneath her apparent attire is worked with the finest silk, trimmed with the most elaborate of lace and is worthy the production of tbe most finished and careful draper of the present time. With a conscientious reference to the truth of history, Elizabeth iB provided with woolen stockmgB, not with the si Ik affairs that she is said to have once enjoyed and which afterwards came into general use. Henry VIII.

figures quite largely in the collection, but none of his wives appear to have attracted the interest of the Queen sufficiently to prompt her to imitate them. The court of Henry probably because it afforded such a scope for elaborate decoration, contributes very largely to the number of examples that are to be shown in these colored plates, the King himself is in one figure dressed in full armor, tbe armor being very cunningly made by neat stitches of silver thread, so closely put together over a stiff cardboard model that it gives the appearance him as a "legitimate" pretender, tbelr matrimonial prospects were brilliant, Tbe Queen of Portugal was given 820,000 a year during her parents lifetime. She will altogether have about 160,000 or more. So will eachol ber sisters. outside the dress or jacket, suspended by a slender gold chain, which in its turn is attached to a brooch-pin, fastened at the collar.

she bas them, until one of her own sons follows the custom of his fathers by bringing a wife honfe for her to tyrannize over in turn. Yon see, it puts a premium on growing old. Still, the women are so happy aud lovable, so gentle and contented, that one DRESSMAKERS Apprentices and OLDEST SCHOOL McDowell System. Awarded Highest Prlre. Trial free.

On easy terms. Millinery FREE. MME.S. 60SNER 1532 Columbia Ae. around about it," sauetly replied the man.

"The leaves are falling, cold weather fa not far away, and I'm glttln' myself heeled fur winter." Anything more calculated to tempt the light- i Tbe youngest son was left tbe reversion of ngered fraternity could scarcely be con How heeled?" "Klnaintr nickels and dimes and nnnrtnn and droDoin 'em down Into mv hinrf-rwimL. ceived, especially as many of tbe watches thus carelessly displayed are of considerable value, Tnany of them being starred with There's a quarter under your foot now. That scarcely wishes to see tbem emancipated. I Of course these relations of husband and I wife refer wholly to those who are native born. When a foreign woman marries a Japanese of tbe better class ber position in the household is vastly different.

She 'is Villa Mamlque, which Is now worth 8,000,000 franca. The Comte de Parts must have been worth 8325,000 a year, Independently of what he bad from tbe Ducbesse de Galllera. He bud a fourteenth part of the 52,000,000 francs of HDDanea. and of "the Origans riht" SOMETHING ENTIRELY NEW Human Hair made Into Omaroenu and Pins to match any color of hair. All the LATEST NOVELTIES in Hair Goods.

We" bave tbe largest stock In the city to select from at prices which defy competition. Bole agency for Lang-wlsch'a German Face Powder. The best In the world. WIM) GRAPE" LADIES iewels at the back. The result of the latest mode has been what might only naturally be expected.

Scores of ladies have been robbed RK 1 recognized as tbe equal and companion of her husband, and her household is ordered a very of francs, which the Versailles Assembly lowed to Louis Philippe's debt. great deal upon the European method adapted Hate, positive cure what vou want result guaranteed. At druggists or by mail. Sealed particulars, Ac. In stamps.

OL.DFIELD MKDK INECO-. lOUlt VINA 8THEKT, PHI LA. biiouncien hdu aiiDis snare ne aua me Due de Utmrtres had about S200.OUO aniline, the of their precious trinkets within the past week or so. and not a day passes but a theft of the kind is reported to tbe police in the to tne Japanese environment. ma sen about 5 ana 1 aa ven been Id tbe other park at all.

Wee here He reached around and pulled out a dozen or more coins aod a lot of gravel and held thecollection undertbe officer's eyes for half a minute before saying: "You know yourgait I knowrrfne. See?" Tueofficer hit him across the back with his club and told bim to move on. Tne tramp moved with a jump which covered seven feet, but as he landed be made a diva along tbe edge of the patb and flabed out a nickel and held It up and shouted "Thauka! Shouldn't bave found this but fur you! Down sbe goes to join the collection, and you bet I don't live on bay aud Icicles this winter." arrears of their mother's dower Income, which was secured on the Orleans estates. The Dtinheafte de ftaiiiArn Mvaahniitiuvi. Some years ago there was a sudden rage neighborhood ot Kegent street and Many of the robberies have been committed for things European among the women of LADIES' SUPERFLUOUS HAIR 0 being composed of steel.

The greaves that protect bis legs are beautifully outlined to intricate the steel scales that permit tbe bending of the knees and the action of tbe mus-nes, and a helmet faithfully reproducing those in use during that age is set dowa over 000,000 francs. A good deal of this was sunk In improvements of the Eu and Amoolse chateaux and estates, but very little ot It wrii spent oa political organizations? The fortune or the Comteese de Paris roust be very great, but it baa been kept "dark." in broad daylight, and the thieves have in nearly every instance succeeded in making good their escape. Last evening a lady lost in this way a beautiful demi-hunter valued at 50. Daring the past fortnight four Scot- Removed by the electric needle operation. The only method In the world bv which the hair papilla can be destroyed so that It will never grow again.

Japan. The Empress, who is a very charming person, without being extremely good looking, was seised with a desire to introduce European fashions at the court of Tokio. BECK'S HAIR STORE 36 NORTH EIGHTH STREET (Between Arch and Filbert.) JOSEPH I NK VAN UYIK, 811 SOUTH TWELFTH STREET. 1.